UKC

Janga simply seems untouchable in boulders or lead. Shame she wasn't able to go to all the rounds. 

I don't know much about comps but it looks like Slovenia and Japan have got something right by looking at the rankings.

What happened to stasa gejo? Am I guessing she picked up an injury in the qualifiers?

I thought Miho's performance was particularly impressive. She went just after Akiyo on every boulder so she had that added pressure of knowing what she had to do. Despite that she climbed superbly, never appeared stressed, and just gone with job. And she was clearly made up when she completed that last boulder. Another emotional moment and great to see.

I also thought the British guys did pretty well despite not making the semis. The large and very strong 125 field means they actually placed pretty well and ahead of a number of excellent top climbers. Nathan finished ahead of Alex Khazanov, Nathaniel Coleman, Martin Stranik and GG Mondet. Slightly higher up Aiden was also ahead of Michael Piccolruaz and Alban Levier. And Matt Cousins was ahead Sean Bailey, Dmitrii Sharafutdinov and Alex Megos. With such a strong men's field I don't think the numbers necessarily do justice to their abilities.

The final was good but must be the only one that didn't feature any of the regulars: Alexey Rubtsov, Jongwon Chon or Tomoa Narasaki.

She didn't make semis and came 31st. She wasn't the only big name to miss the cut. Kyra Condie and Ashima Shiraishi also didn't make semis. All the more impressive is Emily Philips result.

Yeah I agree, particularly Slovenia with a population of only 2m.

I presume their success is largely down to the support the climbers get from their country. The commentator mentioned how the Slovenian team including the coaches always seemed like one big happy family. By contrast I don't think the Brits even have coaches out with them (or back home for that matter). In fact they don't even get support to go out there. I wonder how they'd do if the BMC actually got properly behind them supported them the way these other countries do. Considerably better is my guess. I think Matt, Nathan and Aiden are all on the edge of being truly world class climbers.