UKC

The fifth round of the IFSC Bouldering World Cup took place over the weekend in Vail, Colorado. Shauna Coxsey returned to the top and extended her overall lead, making her dominant in the season rankings. In the men's, Jongwon Chon (KOR) topped all of the problems to clinch the gold medal. Interestingly, Japan once again showed how far ahead they are as a team by taking 9 out of 10 places for the men in qualification and then sending 6 climbers to the final in men's and women's.

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In reply to UKC News:

>"Japan once again showed how far ahead they are as a team, by taking 9 out of 10 places for the men in qualification"

9 out of 20, I think you mean. Nevertheless impressive stuff...

In reply to JLS:

Twenty go through to the semis but out of the top ten spots 9 of them were taken by the Japanese. Pretty damned amazing. They also ended up with 7 of the top 10 places in the men's and 4 of the 6 podium places. How long before an all Japanese podium? Seems like only Jongwon Chon and Alexy Rubstov can beat them with any regularity at the moment.

No French team at this comp which was a shame. Also no Ashima which was a surprise and disappointment.

Also what happened to other Brits? I thought Matt Cousins and Orrin Coley were down to go to Vail.

I imagine Shauna has a very good chance of the overall title again now, especially if Janja drops out to focus on lead.

In reply to stp:

>"out of the top ten spots 9 of them were taken by the Japanese"

I guess you are right and that is what was being meant. Doesn't say that, mind.

Kaito Watanabe, let the side down. 1000 extra burpees in training for him this week.

In reply to stp:


Well Jens on 8a* was saying Janja is not doing Mumbai, but doing the European lead championship the following weekend instead. In which case Shauna would only need one 9th place or better to be unreachable. (Unless Miho or Akiyo does very well in both remaining events and Shauna gets null points. Improbable even given current Japanese team form)

I find it hard to see why Janja would bother with a mere European championship when she still has a realistic shot at the bouldering world cup though, except maybe as a warm up for the lead world cup. Right now she's not on the start list for either event, so maybe keeping her options open.

* admittedly never a reliable source of information about, well, basically anything really

In reply to AlanLittle:

Shauna didn't do so well at Mumbai last year. I think she was struggling with the heat and conditions as I remember. But she can drop her worst result anyway - so I think, barring injury, she'll probably get the title again.

I agree about Janja, but from interviews her focus has always been lead. Maybe the bouldering was just a bit of fun for her before the lead season begins and now she wants to build up her endurance before the start.

In reply to AlanLittle:

Is Janja still at school?

In reply to AlanLittle:


Maybe preparing for the Olympics?

Be interesting to see how it cuts up at the Olympics, which discipline will it favour?

There's an interesting comment on the BMC website where someone is berating the BMC for not forming a Speed Climbing Team but I would have thought it would be difficult for a speed climber to upskill enough to beat top lead or boulderers, so can't see the point in a specialist team.

OTOH will it be easier for lead climbers to get points against boulderers or t'other way round or will only all rounders get a place.

That could depend, on the limited places, on who your local national opposition is but also on how the scoring works out.

Of course, like you say you'd think a World over a European comp anytime.

In reply to winhill:

Well, whatever the reason, the Slovenian team list for Navi Mumbai is up now and Janja isn't on it.

http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar#!type=sta...