UKC

IFSC commentator Matt Groom reports from the Lead World Cup in Chamonix last weekend...

Until recently, Slovenia didn't have many climbing walls. Domen Škofic built his giant Climbing Ranch Gym…but it wasn't really a comp venue. Their athletes are famous for training endurance on spray walls in hidden training dens where they can go round and round building their endurance. They needed a climbing and training facility to match the elite level of their athletes. Kranj had history…but let's be honest, it did feel dated when compared to other World Cup venues. Don't worry: things are right up to date now.

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Good write-up and sounded like an excellent comp.

I find it hard to believe the old Kranj wall has only now been decomissioned for international comps. From the last photos I saw of a comp there - only in the last couple of years or so - it looked virtually unchanged from when I first competed on it in around 1994, so some 28 years ago! That's quite some longevity for a comp wall!

Did one of the Japanese women get marked down for an infringement? Fataba Ito? What was the infringement?

Edit: Often these things are obvious but when it’s not I think a bit more of an effort should be made to inform the audience.

It was Nazuki Tanii, but I have no idea why she was penalised. I agree, it would be great to know the reason for and the outcome of appeals during/after the comp.

Great write-up. Wish I'd watched it now!

Ah yes, Nazuki Tanii. Thanks. Yes, when the cameras show a climber in tears due to a judging decision. I think it is incumbent on the organisation to offer an explanation to the audience.

Hi,

Tanii skipped a clip which is probably why she was so distraught but to be fair to her she had just jumped off a plane from her podium finish at the Youth Worlds in Dallas and bashed through that nails semi-final route with jet lag or whatever so she shouldn't feel too bad!

Shot here on her insta sets it out nicely.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CiIIXd3DDP3/

Cheers. Yeah, very obvious from that video. That's a shame, looked like coulda still double clipped from the eventual clipping position she reached.