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NEWS: IFSC World Championships Hachioji: Men's Combined Qualification, More Olympic Tickets

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 UKC News 19 Aug 2019

The men's Combined qualification round has selected the first 6 male athletes eligible for Tokyo 2020 Olympic quota places. Due to the fact that Japan has 4 athletes qualified for the Combined final but can only take 2 Olympic spots, all 4 athletes from other countries in the final plus the 9th and 10th place competitor are guaranteed an Olympic ticket for consideration by their National Olympic Committee.

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 galpinos 19 Aug 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Poor Adam, what's he path now? Toulouse?

 Lucid_Dreamer 19 Aug 2019
In reply to galpinos:

According to Charlies article only the top 20  ranked athletes in the 2019 combined world cup standings will be invited. At the moment Adam Ondra isn't showing in the top 20 on the IFSC website, presumably as he hasn't competed in any speed world cups?

I could be well off the mark here as this isn't exactly straight forward.

In reply to galpinos:

To get to Toulouse Adam needs some speed points from the World Cups, as he's currently not on the Combined scoreboard at the moment. He needs to make top 20 to be invited to Toulouse and it's not looking great at the moment. Will Bosi will likely get a place though!

After that, he needs to be the highest placing athlete in the European Combined Championships next year who hasn't already got a ticket. 

In reply to Lucid_Dreamer:

Adam did Speed in Chamonix but placed 63rd. That's the only Speed event he's done so far this season aside from Hachioji.

 AlanLittle 19 Aug 2019
In reply to Natalie Berry - UKC:

There only appears to be one more Speed WC, in Xiamen. So he either has to do that to get a (hopefully good enough) combined ranking, or be the best placed not yet qualified competitor in the European Championship?

(Or appeal successfully against the foot-on-bolt ruling?) 

In reply to AlanLittle:

Yep, and it's too late for appeals now. 

 tjdodd 19 Aug 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Real shame for Adam.  Really pleased to see Sean McColl getting to the Olympics though.  Well deserved after years of being such a good all rounder.

1
 Lemony 19 Aug 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Ondra is surely the model of the athlete likely to be selected by the IOC committee wildcard approach (if needs be). He's unarguably one of the best comp climbers in the world and would have qualified at the first opportunity were it not for a minor, probably accidental infringement.

1
 Alex1 19 Aug 2019

> To get to Toulouse Adam needs some speed points from the World Cups, as he's currently not on the Combined scoreboard at the moment. He needs to make top 20 to be invited to Toulouse and it's not looking great at the moment.

Seems like a huge misjudgement from his team (and himself) not to be qualified for this as a backup - he's spent a year doing purely Olympic training! As well as this type of thing what if he'd been ill etc. for the worlds? 

Is the wildcard awarded purely on potential performance?

1
 JLS 19 Aug 2019
In reply to Alex1:

>"Is the wildcard awarded purely on potential performance?"

There was talk of it possibly going to a South American if there wasn't any representation from that neck of the woods.

 joeldering 19 Aug 2019
In reply to Lemony:

I am thoroughly confused about the Tripartite Commission places.

I am not sure that there is any athlete who meets the criteria of having come from an eligible country and having competed at this year's combined world championships.

Hopefully someone with more knowledge can shed some light on this?

 Blake 19 Aug 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Saying Adam 'used' that bolt is pretty harsh... he clearly wasn't struggling and flagged out to touch the bolt. He wasn't looking at it and motored through that section with no trouble... seems baffling to write someones tournament and Olympics off because of it.

This format is a nightmare anyway... clearly doesn't work. 

4
In reply to galpinos:

> Poor Adam, what's he path now? 

Maybe to do a new hardest route in the world or onsight something impossible on El Cap while the Olympics is on and steal all the headlines.

4
 galpinos 19 Aug 2019
In reply to Robert Durran:

> Maybe to do a new hardest route in the world or onsight something impossible on El Cap while the Olympics is on and steal all the headlines.

I know the Olympics is not the be all and end all to you but bearing in mind he has a Youtube series called "Road to Tokyo" in which he talks about focusing everything on ......... getting to Tokyo I imagine he was a little gutted and will be trying to get there by another means?

Post edited at 15:53
In reply to galpinos:

>  He has a Youtube series called "Road to Tokyo"....... I imagine he was a little gutted and will be trying to get there by another means.

Rail perhaps?

Actually seriously, I would be a little bit gutted too; without Ondra competing, my interest in the Olympics would be much limited. I really do hope he makes it.

Post edited at 15:49
1
 Sam Shilliday 19 Aug 2019
In reply to Natalie Berry - UKC:

If Adam doesn't make it to the Olympics - although I'm confident he would from the European championship - then it will be a complete outrage and a travesty. 

One of the greatest climbers of all time not allowed qualification because of a judgement of using a bolt while clearly cruising through the route is a disgrace. 

1
 HansStuttgart 19 Aug 2019
In reply to Sam Shilliday:

> One of the greatest climbers of all time not allowed qualification because of a judgement of using a bolt while clearly cruising through the route is a disgrace. 

It is not. He is a pro athlete and should:

a) have some contigency plans ready when plan A goes wrong.

b) be professional enough not to have his feet close to bolts, advertising signs, etc.

7
 ElArt 19 Aug 2019
In reply to HansStuttgart:

He has the same contingency plan as everyone else.. come first in the European qualifiers I believe (says that above).

I don’t think having his foot near a bolt is a reflection of his professionalism. Do you, really?

Also I don’t think he:

a. Stood on it, or

b. Gained a material advantage, the hold it’s right  next to is huge. I’d rather stand on that.

Surely judges must think before they make  a sound call on whether he really stood on it. I think they made a bad call, based on tv footage.. (it wasn’t noticed, I believe another competitor complained). If you watch it it isn’t clear and he gains NO advantage.

This is the guy who admitted that Megos should have won the lead championship straight away, live on TV.

I for one hope he appeals as I think climbing will deliver a much better competition if he is there.

Post edited at 18:41
 Sam Shilliday 19 Aug 2019
In reply to HansStuttgart:

I have since looked into what his contingency plans would be and believe he will have a sufficient combined ranking for the Toulouse event provided he shows up to the Xiamen world cup and bags another strong result at one of the three remaining lead world cups. 

And you are right, he is a professional climber and should have know better etc. But it is hard not to feel some sympathy when there is a large disconnect between a climber's ability and result. 

Post edited at 18:42
1
 JLS 19 Aug 2019
In reply to Sam Shilliday:

Yeah, you’d think he’ll get an ok score on lead from the three chances still available. Only having one Speed comp in the bank with only one comp left seems a bit remiss though!

 HansStuttgart 19 Aug 2019
In reply to ElArt:

> He has the same contingency plan as everyone else.. come first in the European qualifiers I believe (says that above).

Yes. He took some risks by letting speed be for 2019, but will very likely still qualify.

> I don’t think having his foot near a bolt is a reflection of his professionalism. Do you, really?

I think in the next few competitions his feet won't be close to any bolts

> Surely judges must think before they make  a sound call on whether he really stood on it. I think they made a bad call, based on tv footage.. (it wasn’t noticed, I believe another competitor complained). If you watch it it isn’t clear and he gains NO advantage.

The judges should judge this incident consistently with all the other times similar instants have happened in the previous years. I am sure they looked at the issue carefully.

Other teams notifying the judges is simply climbing's VAR. It is the way reconsideration of instant decisions can be done in order to make the sport fairer. I am happy that other teams call out possible incidents, because climbing is still a sport with lots of grey areas in the rules and getting interpretations as clear as possible is in the interest of the development of the sport.
 

> I for one hope he appeals as I think climbing will deliver a much better competition if he is there.

I think appealing is useless, but I do hope he qualifies.

2
 ElArt 19 Aug 2019
In reply to HansStuttgart:

Well Hans from Stuttgart we will have to agree to disagree. I for one think it is unfair, although I admit to bias after following his YouTube series, perhaps you could also after all he is one of the only competitors to get past Megos 😁 

I do think climbing loses out due to a bad decision 

 matthew jones 21 Aug 2019
In reply to UKC News:

A real shame for both Adam and the Olympics (youtube channel or not!). Didn't actually see the stream with this incident, but I have previously seen international comps (also belayed on national comps) where judges have given competitors "heads up" if route setting/practical details on the wall are likely to cause awkward fall potential/infringement/rules on clips etc. Standing on a bolt sounds like the type of thing most of the rest of us do at the crag.  

I doubt many of his rivals will be posting support for his appeal...


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