"I've never fallen off a hand crack anywhere in the world. When the thumb is folded in and rests against the palm the hand forms a perfect wedge. The foot jam is incredibly secure. The only way to fall off a hand crack is by letting go on purpose.
On the first route I did at The Creek, the aptly named Generic Crack, 120 feet of flared hands, the last statement in the paragraph above was almost falsified..."
"...After someone demonstrated the ringlock/karate-chop combo for me, I could do one or two moves..."
Jonas Wiklund goes crack climbing in the desert crack-mecca of Indian Creek...
> (In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC)
> Great article, makes we want to go, not sure I could afford all the cams though!
Thank you! If you go to a popular buttress during the season you can always borrow a few cams for any particular route from other parties at the crag. Also, the routes are quite hard on the body and most climbers will do as few as 4-5 routes a day so it is not a bad idea to go there in a party of three, and three climbers should have 50-60 cams between them, non?
A superb article. Absolutely in line with my two (brief) visits there apart from Jonas' experience of it feeling easier after a while ....
Staying in Monticello is an interesting choice! Quite a scary place as only remote US desert towns can be. Readers of a certain age may be interested to know that the road that used to be Route 666, immortalised in 'Natural Born Killers' starts there ....
In reply to tobyfk: If you stay there for more than a brief visit it does gets quite a lot easier. After a month in The Creek my onsight level on anything not involving stacking different body-parts was approaching my onsight level for sportclimbing.
Great article. I think the only way to experience the creek is to camp. There are some spectacular places the desert scenery, the stars, the solitude are all part of the experience. It's a hassle to carry in the water and to pack out the human waste, but this is only a small issue compared with the overall beauty of the place. If anyone's not convinced look at the picture here http://desert-climbing.blogspot.com/2007/10/friends-of-indian-creek.html
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