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DESTINATION GUIDE: Indian Creek, USA

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"I've never fallen off a hand crack anywhere in the world. When the thumb is folded in and rests against the palm the hand forms a perfect wedge. The foot jam is incredibly secure. The only way to fall off a hand crack is by letting go on purpose.

On the first route I did at The Creek, the aptly named Generic Crack, 120 feet of flared hands, the last statement in the paragraph above was almost falsified..."

"...After someone demonstrated the ringlock/karate-chop combo for me, I could do one or two moves..."


Jonas Wiklund goes crack climbing in the desert crack-mecca of Indian Creek...

Read more: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=888


 Lemony 16 May 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Seems like a reasonable place to link to this video of Alex Honnold that someone posted last night:

http://www.bdel.com/scene/video/alex_indian_creek.html

Inspiring place!
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Very good tip indeed about shoes. He's not wrong.

jcm
 Morgan Woods 16 May 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

brilliant, comprehensive article Jonas.
 fimm 16 May 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Some really good photos there.
Wingman 16 May 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

amazing pics

great article

It's always been on my list, going to be moving higher. Now all I have to do is learn how to jam.
(he makes it sound so easy!)
 galpinos 16 May 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Great article, makes we want to go, not sure I could afford all the cams though!
 jwi 16 May 2008
In reply to galpinos:
> (In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC)
>
> Great article, makes we want to go, not sure I could afford all the cams though!

Thank you! If you go to a popular buttress during the season you can always borrow a few cams for any particular route from other parties at the crag. Also, the routes are quite hard on the body and most climbers will do as few as 4-5 routes a day so it is not a bad idea to go there in a party of three, and three climbers should have 50-60 cams between them, non?
 Chris F 16 May 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

"on a crumbly tips crack I ripped three aliens straight out of the crack and hit the ground. But in a nice way"

Great piece of writing.
 tobyfk 16 May 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

A superb article. Absolutely in line with my two (brief) visits there apart from Jonas' experience of it feeling easier after a while ....

Staying in Monticello is an interesting choice! Quite a scary place as only remote US desert towns can be. Readers of a certain age may be interested to know that the road that used to be Route 666, immortalised in 'Natural Born Killers' starts there ....
 jwi 16 May 2008
In reply to tobyfk: If you stay there for more than a brief visit it does gets quite a lot easier. After a month in The Creek my onsight level on anything not involving stacking different body-parts was approaching my onsight level for sportclimbing.
 tobyfk 16 May 2008
In reply to jwi:

Did you get on any towers whilst you were there?
 alicia 16 May 2008
In reply to jwi:

Great article, exactly what you'd want to know about the place.
 jwi 16 May 2008
In reply to tobyfk: Nope. Fell off a highball in Mizugaki a few months prior to my US-trip, and my ankle was still swollen when I was in Utah. So I didn't want to do any approach hikes.
 TonyB 19 May 2008
Great article. I think the only way to experience the creek is to camp. There are some spectacular places the desert scenery, the stars, the solitude are all part of the experience. It's a hassle to carry in the water and to pack out the human waste, but this is only a small issue compared with the overall beauty of the place. If anyone's not convinced look at the picture here http://desert-climbing.blogspot.com/2007/10/friends-of-indian-creek.html

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