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Not content with The Indian Face (E9) he's climbed Gribbin Wall Climb (E9) too.
The dry weather has spurred on some hard ascents, and James McHaffie has been leading the way on UK trad once again...
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68205
In reply to UKC News: Lots of hard climbing going on at the moment, very inspirational stuff! Please keep up the good stuff.
In reply to UKC News: Me and my friend are thinking of trying this on a top rope to see how far we get
In reply to UKC News:
Has Popshot not heard about this yet? I'd have thought that he'd have been moaning about it being the Indian Face coming over here, stealing all our chop routes, what's wrong with the English Face....
Huge congratulations to James. I started climbing the summer after IF was put up and it's always been the pinnacle of British climbing to me; the arguments that went on, and continue to go on around it, and the mythology which has developed are things that I love about our sport.
Has Popshot not heard about this yet? I'd have thought that he'd have been moaning about it being the Indian Face coming over here, stealing all our chop routes, what's wrong with the English Face....
Huge congratulations to James. I started climbing the summer after IF was put up and it's always been the pinnacle of British climbing to me; the arguments that went on, and continue to go on around it, and the mythology which has developed are things that I love about our sport.
In reply to PopShot:
Ah, there he is...
Ah, there he is...
In reply to PopShot:
ah, now that was just too obvious...
> (In reply to UKC News) Me and my friend are thinking of trying this on a top rope to see how far we get
ah, now that was just too obvious...
In reply to UKC News:
Amazing stuff. Can't believe this is only the fourth ascent (not that I'm queuing up to get on it!). Is this the first person to get this in a day?
Amazing stuff. Can't believe this is only the fourth ascent (not that I'm queuing up to get on it!). Is this the first person to get this in a day?
In reply to Tyler: I'm not sure of MacLeod did it -- didn't he decide it wasn't for him? Or did he go back again and I missed it?
In reply to papashango:
I've read an account of it somewhere before and it made me sweat all over! I seem to remember that his belayer had to run to the top to lower a rope down to him, effectively leaving him unroped on the face. I might have that wrong though. Anyone got a link to the story?
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> What was the story with the Master's Wall onsight attempt?
>
> What was the story with the Master's Wall onsight attempt?
I've read an account of it somewhere before and it made me sweat all over! I seem to remember that his belayer had to run to the top to lower a rope down to him, effectively leaving him unroped on the face. I might have that wrong though. Anyone got a link to the story?
In reply to papashango:
Went off route, and unable to climb or downclimb had to untie in order that his partner could run to the top and lower one down to him. In the description I read, he was two hours on one tiny foothold. It left him understandably shaken.
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> What was the story with the Master's Wall onsight attempt?
>
> What was the story with the Master's Wall onsight attempt?
Went off route, and unable to climb or downclimb had to untie in order that his partner could run to the top and lower one down to him. In the description I read, he was two hours on one tiny foothold. It left him understandably shaken.
In reply to Motown: Just found this version of it, although I'm sure I've read a better version as well. http://www.newsandstar.co.uk/james-heeded-cloggy-s-final-warning-1.367926?r...
In reply to Dave 88:
Not reading the guidebook? Neil's article about his ascent is a major part of the introduction to the guide.
Anyway, sarcastic remarks aside, well done to Caff, looks like we are getting closer to an on-sight ascent though I don't know who the contender is likely to be.
ALC
> (In reply to Tyler)
>
> I didn't know Gresham did it. How did I miss that.
>
> I didn't know Gresham did it. How did I miss that.
Not reading the guidebook? Neil's article about his ascent is a major part of the introduction to the guide.
Anyway, sarcastic remarks aside, well done to Caff, looks like we are getting closer to an on-sight ascent though I don't know who the contender is likely to be.
ALC
In reply to a lakeland climber:
DJ Viper, naturally.
DJ Viper, naturally.
In reply to a lakeland climber:
Wow, all aboard the banter train. I don't own that guidebook you sarcy tw*t.
Wow, all aboard the banter train. I don't own that guidebook you sarcy tw*t.
In reply to Tyler: I thought Leo did it aswell?
In reply to UKC News:
Effort caff, the read of your account in trying to onsight masters wall is prob one of the most unbelievable story I've read. Awesome effort.
Pretty sure the account is in the front of the cloggy book, the one with Trevor messiah on shrike on the cover?
Effort caff, the read of your account in trying to onsight masters wall is prob one of the most unbelievable story I've read. Awesome effort.
Pretty sure the account is in the front of the cloggy book, the one with Trevor messiah on shrike on the cover?
In reply to centurion05:
the one with Trevor messiah on shrike on the cover?
Think it's Ed February...
the one with Trevor messiah on shrike on the cover?
Think it's Ed February...
In reply to papashango:
I remember popping round to a mates house in Ambleside, where Caff was living at the time. I asked him what he'd been up to. His reply was "I had a little scare in Wales, so I've not done much for a couple of weeks." The then read the story of the 'little scare' a month or two later.
I remember popping round to a mates house in Ambleside, where Caff was living at the time. I asked him what he'd been up to. His reply was "I had a little scare in Wales, so I've not done much for a couple of weeks." The then read the story of the 'little scare' a month or two later.
In reply to UKC News:
Great writing and climbing
http://www.jamesmchaffie.com/1/post/2013/07/the-indian-face.html
Great writing and climbing
http://www.jamesmchaffie.com/1/post/2013/07/the-indian-face.html
In reply to thermal_t:
Anyone know if there is a version of this from James himself?
Sounds like a proper epic! Everyone likes a good epic story.
Nice work on Indian Face. Finally got to cloggy for the first time this week. The line is indeed as good as they say!
> (In reply to Motown) Just found this version of it, although I'm sure I've read a better version as well. http://www.newsandstar.co.uk/james-heeded-cloggy-s-final-warning-1.367926?r...
Anyone know if there is a version of this from James himself?
Sounds like a proper epic! Everyone likes a good epic story.
Nice work on Indian Face. Finally got to cloggy for the first time this week. The line is indeed as good as they say!
In reply to snoop6060:
Coincidentally it is a central part of Caff's IF blog (link in simondgee's post just above yours!). Excellent. He doesn't call it a "slip knot" or say that it should have failed, just says it was a weird slippery hitch
> (In reply to thermal_t)
> [...]
>
> Anyone know if there is a version of this from James himself?
> [...]
>
> Anyone know if there is a version of this from James himself?
Coincidentally it is a central part of Caff's IF blog (link in simondgee's post just above yours!). Excellent. He doesn't call it a "slip knot" or say that it should have failed, just says it was a weird slippery hitch
In reply to Blue Straggler:
A rope with knot and karabiner already in it might have been better, in retrospect.
A rope with knot and karabiner already in it might have been better, in retrospect.
In reply to jon:
I was quietly wondering about that but hey, heat of the moment, terrified for your friend, benefit of hindsight and all that - everything will have been in a bit of a rush for Adam!
I was quietly wondering about that but hey, heat of the moment, terrified for your friend, benefit of hindsight and all that - everything will have been in a bit of a rush for Adam!
In reply to Blue Straggler:
Yeah, just read it. Excellent write up. Gripping story about Masters Edge, sounds and utterly grim way to spend an hour!
Yeah, just read it. Excellent write up. Gripping story about Masters Edge, sounds and utterly grim way to spend an hour!
In reply to Blue Straggler:
Yeah, you can kinda imagine the guys pain. Its hard enough belaying someone on bold routes, sometimes terrifying even. But cannot imagine what it's like when they are half way up an E8 and are forced to untie so you can save them. I'd be having a panic attack holding the ropes that day!
> (In reply to jon)
>
> I was quietly wondering about that but hey, heat of the moment, terrified for your friend, benefit of hindsight and all that - everything will have been in a bit of a rush for Adam!
>
> I was quietly wondering about that but hey, heat of the moment, terrified for your friend, benefit of hindsight and all that - everything will have been in a bit of a rush for Adam!
Yeah, you can kinda imagine the guys pain. Its hard enough belaying someone on bold routes, sometimes terrifying even. But cannot imagine what it's like when they are half way up an E8 and are forced to untie so you can save them. I'd be having a panic attack holding the ropes that day!
In reply to snoop6060: I watched James yesterday, very impressive attitude to the whole thing. I think I was considerably more nervous than he was!
In reply to snoop6060: Master's Edge?
In reply to Motown:
ouch.... not nice....
> (In reply to papashango)
> [...]
>
> Went off route, and unable to climb or downclimb had to untie in order that his partner could run to the top and lower one down to him. In the description I read, he was two hours on one tiny foothold.
> [...]
>
> Went off route, and unable to climb or downclimb had to untie in order that his partner could run to the top and lower one down to him. In the description I read, he was two hours on one tiny foothold.
ouch.... not nice....
In reply to UKC News: Been up to Cloggy today watching someone playing on the moves and checking the gear. Route well chalked up....6th ascent soon?
In reply to James Oswald: Thanks.
In reply to UKC News: I like his summing up. Basically, he tried it, then he climbed it.
In reply to PopShot:
You and DJ Viper?
> (In reply to UKC News) Me and my friend are thinking of trying this on a top rope to see how far we get
You and DJ Viper?
In reply to Dave 88:
I remember it. Till then I thought of him as someone who was good at short hard grit climbs. Then he does the 3rd ascent of this huge mountain death climb. Stands out in my memory.
> (In reply to Tyler)
>
> I didn't know Gresham did it.
>
> I didn't know Gresham did it.
I remember it. Till then I thought of him as someone who was good at short hard grit climbs. Then he does the 3rd ascent of this huge mountain death climb. Stands out in my memory.
In reply to Zoomer:
Calum Muskett has just done the 6th ascent
https://twitter.com/dmmclimbing/status/355311345924726784
Calum Muskett has just done the 6th ascent
https://twitter.com/dmmclimbing/status/355311345924726784
In reply to UKC News: 7th ascent by George Ulrich!
In reply to McGuinness: It's just like buses...jeez. Awesome effort to Caff, Calum and George. Didn't Mr Dawes say that no one is climbing hard anymore?
In reply to lewk_c:
Whereas they are climbing just as hard as they were 30 years ago ? I think JDs point was that this is still newsworthy - the benchmark hasn't moved on much.
> Didn't Mr Dawes say that no one is climbing hard anymore?
Whereas they are climbing just as hard as they were 30 years ago ? I think JDs point was that this is still newsworthy - the benchmark hasn't moved on much.
In reply to lewk_c:
Well he did do it in '86!
It's hardly leading edge nowadays. But it's great that it's seeing so many ascents! Is it now fair to say that much of the route's aura has well and truly been blown apart? Just a very good, very serious E9?
Well he did do it in '86!
It's hardly leading edge nowadays. But it's great that it's seeing so many ascents! Is it now fair to say that much of the route's aura has well and truly been blown apart? Just a very good, very serious E9?
In reply to Michael Gordon:
Caff said in his blog: 'The Indian Face is a true headgame with relatively steady climbing (by modern standards) but with the seriousness impeding your performance on it with lots of bits it’d be easy to cock up and get scared on.'
Kind of confirms what everybody else has said about it. I think it will have an aura for some time, it's that combination of deadly serious and insecure.
Caff said in his blog: 'The Indian Face is a true headgame with relatively steady climbing (by modern standards) but with the seriousness impeding your performance on it with lots of bits it’d be easy to cock up and get scared on.'
Kind of confirms what everybody else has said about it. I think it will have an aura for some time, it's that combination of deadly serious and insecure.
In reply to pasbury:
Obviously it's utterly unique. But three ascents in one week? Must do something for it's aura.
Obviously it's utterly unique. But three ascents in one week? Must do something for it's aura.
In reply to Michael Gordon:
is it not just thats its not rained in n wales for a week?
is it not just thats its not rained in n wales for a week?
In reply to Michael Gordon:
More to do with people being around, holding ropes and the route being climbed. IIRC Neil and Nick both repeated it in close proximity. You see one of your mates on a route and you want to do it yourself.
More to do with people being around, holding ropes and the route being climbed. IIRC Neil and Nick both repeated it in close proximity. You see one of your mates on a route and you want to do it yourself.
In reply to UKC News: Wow. There's somè fit strong and brave climbers going around just now.
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