I can trace my infatuation with high mountains and Everest to that very picture of Haston on the Hilary Step. I even remember drawing a copy of it with my coloured pencils when I was about 9 or 10. To this day that picture inspires me every time I see it.
My dad took me to hear doug scott talk in about 1986, and tho the seed was already there, that experience was like a tonne of fertilizer.
He still had the long hair and beard and glasses, and spoke with immense 'thereness' and humour.
I remember mcartney-snape, linc hall and andy henderson in the front row, as transfixed as everyone else.
10 years ago i saw him in torridon (i think, stromferry maybe) and was too lilly livered to approach him, which is kinda how i need it to be in a silly way.
Great article - I had a poster of Doug on my bedroom wall as a kid !
As an aside - I was chatting to Doug some years ago and he recalled how on summit day he ran out of film for his camera and thought that was it - but on rummaging around in the bottom of his pack he thankfully found a roll of Kodachrome and managed to reload !!! Without that extra roll kicking about in his pack one of the most iconic mountaineering images wouldn't exist.
In reply to UKC Articles:
Great article! I still have a framed poster of Doug's "Dougal Haston on Everest summit" photo hanging in the spare room. As a child I read Bonington's books about the Everest expeditions and what Doug & Haston did was an inspiration to me. The confidence and skill to survive a bivvy nr the summit of Everest in just a pile jacket and windsuit is unbelievable.
What a nice story! It shows what a thoughtful person Doug Scott obviously is. But, and maybe it's my mind, it immediately brought back memories of a report of an altitude record achieved in the forced bivy that was reported in Crags magazine shortly after. Very amusing to my 14 year old self!
In reply to UKC Articles: I also owe much to Doug. In 1962 I made my first trip to the Alps, the Otztal in Austria on a Mountaineering Asociation Course. The leader was a young Doug Scott. During those 8 days we climbed 12 peaks. This friendly, competent and determined leader showed me what it was to be a mountaineer and has remained an inspiration ever since. I have never climbed to a high standard but am, at 76, still climbing regularly. Thanks for your inspiration and friendship over the years Doug. You changed the direction of my life. Brian Manton
In reply to UKC Articles: Nice article, Doug first inpired me with his Derwent guide to the Matlock Bath area, closely followed by meeting the great man on the Biolay campsite in Chamonix.
Years later he spotted me at a lecture and recognised me so asked me to work the slide projector for him, I was so proud,
Again years later I was at a CC dinner with Geoff Milburn and Dave Geogory and this man I did not recognise came over and said
'I liked that comment of yours 'there were many great auks till the last one died'
It was about free routes in an article I wrote and was actually pinched from Rheinhlod Messner.
'Oh thanks I said, but I cribbed it off someone else' The man smiled and walked off, Dave said 'I always find him a bit strange'''Who is it I said, thats Doug Scott. I was completely embarrassed not recognising the great man after all the years, but I'd never seen him in a suit and tie with short hair before :-s
Inspiring stories. A couple of my favourite vignettes involving him.
Can't remember who it was in a snow hole with him. Storm raged for days, the guy thought he was going to die. As the storm eased, the guy saw his chance to descend and escape with his life. Scott stirs, looks unperturbed and says 'Right let's head up youth'.
Then there's a story reported by Scott on climbing with Reinhold Messner. Scott finds a pitch hard and climbs it slowly. Messner shouts up 'Come now Doug: to rest is not to conquer'. Stung, Scott speeds up. Messner follows, struggles and says 'Actually that was hard'. Honour restored.