UKC Forums - NEWS: Jacopo Larcher & Babsi Zangerl climbs Gondo Crack, 8c trad

NEWS: Jacopo Larcher & Babsi Zangerl climbs Gondo Crack, 8c trad

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UKC News 06 Apr 2017

Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl has both managed to free a long standing project at the Cippo crag near the village Gondo in Switzerland. The project was bolted(!) by A. Manini and M. Pellizzon almost 15 years ago, and since then it had been an open project.

From Jacopo's fb: As its name...

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Zillas 06 Apr 2017

In reply to UKC News:

When Chuck Norris goes to sleep he checks his closet for Babsi Zangerl.....

Luke90 06 Apr 2017

In reply to UKC News:

Anybody want to hazard a guess at an E-grade?!

SuperLee1985 07 Apr 2017

In reply to UKC News:

Big respect to both for opting to do it in the Trad style. Top Job.

GrahamD 07 Apr 2017

In reply to UKC News:

What have they ever done at Alderly ?

GrahamD 07 Apr 2017

In reply to Luke90:

In difficulty, 8c is on or slightly below Rhapsody, isn't it ? so E10 ?

sfletch 07 Apr 2017

In reply to UKC News:

"it felt hard and pumpy to place the gear and it was quite a mental challenge to climb the crux quite far above the last piece of gear"

If she was scared couldn't she have just clipped one of the bolts? Seems a bit of a contrived trad ascent if you always have the option to clip a bolt every few meters and choose not to.

GrahamD 07 Apr 2017

In reply to sfletch:

> "it felt hard and pumpy to place the gear and it was quite a mental challenge to climb the crux quite far above the last piece of gear"If she was scared couldn't she have just clipped one of the bolts? Seems a bit of a contrived trad ascent if you always have the option to clip a bolt every few meters and choose not to.

The fact that bolts were there make it somewhat less than ideal, I'd agree, but its not quite the same as a life and death fall with bolts nearby.

stp 07 Apr 2017

In reply to UKC News:
It's unclear what style this was actually done in. Traditional climbing generally means ground up. Headpointing is a newer style than redpointing, so very far from being 'traditional'.

If it was headpointed the bolts may have been useful or even essential for getting the top rope up first, and/or working the moves.

Post edited at 12:06

lithos 07 Apr 2017

In reply to GrahamD:

i've heard of the bolts being taped up so they are not clippable

no idea about this ascent, not passing any judgement, just sayin....

HeMa 11 Apr 2017

In reply to stp:

> It's unclear what style this was actually done in.

The link makes it pretty clear. They climbed it 1st with bolts and redpointed it with trad gear. So a green point If I've understood the term correctly .

How ever, What was unclear was the fact that was the FA done by both on bolts and then with gear. Or did the simply hangdog up with tge bolts to check out moves & gear before doing it cleanky with just gear from start.