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INTERVIEW: James McHaffie - The Cumbrian

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 UKC Articles 28 Sep 2020
Caff on Comes the Dervish (E3 5c)

Marc Langley talks with one of British climbing's most devoted disciples: James McHaffie. They talk about Caff's early soloing exploits in the Lake District, a horrifying epic on Cloggy, his shift towards sport climbing and back again, and inclusivity within the sport.



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 Adam Hocking 28 Sep 2020
In reply to UKC Articles:

Hands down Britain's best traditional climber. 

 Michael Gordon 29 Sep 2020
In reply to Adam Hocking:

If by 'traditional' we mean onsight, then I don't think many would disagree.

 LeeWood 29 Sep 2020
In reply to UKC Articles:

I'm waiting to hear Haffie breaks a few bones - if not, then it's plain he's not trying hard enough ;)

 Michael Gordon 29 Sep 2020
In reply to UKC Articles:

Interesting bit about history being re-written re Master's Wall. Has this been reflected in a guidebook yet? And is it thought that Leo went a slightly different way? 

 Adam Hocking 30 Sep 2020

 And is it thought that Leo went a slightly different way? 
 

When Leo did it 20 or so years ago he moved right lower down into the crack. Pretty good effort as a kid in baggy shoes.

 Michael Gordon 30 Sep 2020
In reply to Adam Hocking:

>  When Leo did it 20 or so years ago he moved right lower down into the crack.

OK thanks.

"Pretty good effort as a kid in baggy shoes."

Definitely!

Post edited at 17:52
 Andy Gamisou 03 Oct 2020
In reply to UKC Articles:

Watched James attempting to onsight an 8b-ish sports route once.  He spent 75mins on the route working out the various cruxes, which I thought a pretty impressive achievement.  Ability to ignore the pain of standing around in tight rock shoes for that length of time was remarkable enough in itself.  Quite a lot of apologizing too - something I've never felt inclined to ever do myself!  He got the onsight anyways.  Equally impressive was him coming back two days later and repeating it in about 10 mins.

Learned a lot watching those two ascents.  Nice guy too.

Post edited at 06:37

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