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NEWS: James McHaffie Climbs 'The Meltdown' - 9a Slab?

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 UKC News 10 Jul 2012
James McHaffie on 'The Meltdown' - The UK's hardest slab route, and possibly 9a, 3 kbJames McHaffie has climbed the long standing slate project The Meltdown to give the UK its hardest slab route at around 9a.

The line was first attempted and bolted by Johnny Dawes when he was climbing at his prime, during the time that he was very active on the slate.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67243

 DAVETHOMAS90 10 Jul 2012
In reply to UKC News:

Mega! This is great news, and something we've been waiting for for a while.

Great to know James hadn't given up on it.

Why do I find this particularly inspiring?

Dave T.
In reply to UKC News: Well done James. Very impressive.

Jack
 Jonny2vests 10 Jul 2012
In reply to UKC News:

A 9a slab. The mind boggles.
 Wft 10 Jul 2012
In reply to DAVETHOMAS90:
> (In reply to UKC News)
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>
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> Why do I find this particularly inspiring?
>
>

It's a slate saga
 jacobjlloyd 10 Jul 2012
In reply to UKC News: Reticent indeed. If he had it his way, nobody would know he even knew how to tie-in! What an absolute monster of an achievement, and such an historic line - nice one Caff!
 Wee Davie 10 Jul 2012
In reply to UKC News:

Superb! Dawes' book makes it sound desperate.
 Jon Read 11 Jul 2012
In reply to UKC News:
Amazing!
 andybenham 11 Jul 2012
In reply to UKC News: Incredible! Looks flippin desperate.
 Hat Dude 11 Jul 2012
In reply to jonny2vests:
> (In reply to UKC News)
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> A 9a slab. The mind boggles.

From my depths of punterdom, I wish they wouldn't call things like this "slabs" - it's demoralising!
 Toccata 11 Jul 2012
In reply to UKC News:

Dawes wrote about this in OTE '96ish. Would be nice to drag out the article again (it'll be in the loft somewhere). I was so inspired I took a detour into the quarries just to look at Quarryman and Meltdown.
In reply to UKC News: Wonder if he has given it a UK grade.
 _MJC_ 13 Jul 2012
In reply to Hat Dude: Is it not a slab? Genuine question.
In reply to Toccata:
> (In reply to UKC News)
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> Dawes wrote about this in OTE '96ish.

I've just spent all evening looking for it but failed - it truly gave an idea of the difficulty of the climbing and how it sounded like a normal climb as opposed to one where there are few holds miles apart. From memory:- "sequences of 6 moves just to swap hands.....rounded micromounds for feet........a sideways dyno into a straight hand layback with the knee resting on the hand..."

 Milnes 02 Aug 2012

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