UKC

James Pearson has shared with us a fun film of him trying the route 'Carbondale Short Bus' in Indian Creek. The route was first climbed by Hayden Kennedy in 2012, but became a well known project after Nick Martino tried the route in the film 'First Ascent.' The route is around F8b+ and features a...

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"Like a rat up a drain pipe"... ha! Not getting any boyfriend points there James...

In reply to UKC News: Nice to see new Creek videos. I still can't get past the fact that James regularly falls into speaking English like it isn't his first language. Anyways, I think Nick Martino's attempts at this are the most watchable by miles.

In reply to Frank the Husky:


The cam fumbling is really classic.

In reply to UKC News:

brilliant effort!

just a wee one to put a spanner in the works,
i am a fat punter but proud daddy nowdays and could barely walk to the crag let alone climb this, but i cant help in thinking that the rope dangling from the chains on james's successful attempt seemed abit like a backup on the run-out bit??
seems abit cheeky to me? i think i would have maybe attempted the odd death route projects of mine in the past if this technique was accepted in a clean redpoint.

Ioan Doyle

In reply to IOAN D:

Admittedly it's a few feet to his right but the last runner is only at his feet when he clips the chains and it's practically level with him when he has done the hard moves and is manteling onto the ledge?

In reply to UKC News:

"Stop talking about hard or easy, no one gives a shit." hit the nail on the head. Please tell us a bit more about the place, the people, the sights, the sounds, the smells, the rock, the style, ect! My local indoor wall has hard routes but that doesn't make it Indian Creek!

I'm sure it was heavy taking cams up that hill but James, if you're reading, I'm more than happy to swap jobs.

In reply to AJM:

I thought he must mean the last few moves before placing that top runner, during which the dangling rope was in reach. Still didn't look that bold though, and it was just a single rope so not easy to reach across and do much with in extremis.

I don't usually go in for vids of this style (the comedy aspect) but I enjoyed that.

In reply to IOAN D:

A fair enough point, but the impression I got was that this wasn't a deliberate redpoint redpoint attempt, it was his first go of the day, he was refamiliarising himself with the moves and it happened to go much better than he thought it would. He would have likely been planning to remove it when he got to the top in preparation for his first serious attempt but things just went better than planned. We can see he didn't dog it, so it counts in my book for what that's worth.

In reply to Robert Durran:

Worth watching the Hayden Kennedy vid, especially where he says 'at that point I can do another boulder problem which is a lot easier for me coz I'm really tall, I can just reach through...' (Rob!) and compare with the move the cam fumbler has to make. vimeo.com/50101783

In reply to UKC News:
Nice one.Used to go the Creek a lot before it became popular (too)

In reply to IOAN D:

As others have said before I don't think he was intending to redpoint the route that go, more just check sections. Plus what is he realistically going to do with the rope? At a point where he could grab it he can put cams in, or drop off he isn't looking at decking. Finally, the rope on its own isn't very useful - I don't know if you've ever tried to grab a rope like that but it's not so easy!

Congrats on becoming a dad though eh!

In reply to UKC News:

Good vid and they both come across as really sound...

But I'd be very hesitant about claiming that as a free ascent. The rope quite clearly slows his swing to the left as he does the final dyno. When you see the film of previous ascentionists and how much they swing out, it's clear he's getting direct aid from the rope.
Tension Traverse anyone?

But anyway, couple of excellent seeming people having fun and not taking it too serious.

Good on them

In reply to TheGeneralist:


Nonsense. He's just taller so needs less of a dyno. Hayden Kennedy has to dyno even less on his ascent (Link in Jon's post above).

In reply to Si dH:


Looked pretty run out to me. And they're tiny cams in soft sandstone, not gold camalots in granite.

In reply to Robert Durran:

I'm intrigued. Which specific bit of my post do you disagree with?

Are you saying the rope is not tight?

Or that a tight rope from the right is immaterial in helping stick that hold?

In reply to Robert Durran:
Agreed. I thought JP reduced his swing with a right toe hook in the groove? I don't think the rope caught him.

In reply to TheGeneralist:


There is no reason to believe it is.

In reply to jon:

Yes, looks like the right toe in the crack helped control the swing, and he dabbed his left foot on the face. Can't imagine the rope made much difference.

In reply to Frank the Husky:

i remember when he used to come out climbing as a 16 year old. he spoke English then.

In reply to Duncan Campbell:


Those are the best days, getting on a route thinking ok I'll have a go, I've nothing to lose and then holy crap you do it...bonus!! Well done to the fella, quality dyno.

In reply to Frank the Husky:

It may be because he's a nice person

https://spinalresearch.com.au/5133-2/

From experience, I've found some people unconsciously do it, others don't.

Nice video.

In reply to Mike Stretford: Interesting article. He was in the US speaking to an American film crew, and he wasn't using an American accent, so the theory doesn't work. It's a bit weird.

In reply to Frank the Husky:

He's walking up to the crag with Caroline Ciavaldini, who I gather he spends most of his time with. It would explain how this accent developed.

It's something I've noticed in some travelled people before, surprised you haven't.

In reply to Mike Stretford:


They're married. He seems to have spent most of the last few years living abroad, currently living in the south of France. That would go a long way to explaining his clear enunciation of English. Seems like a top bloke to me.

In reply to ChrisBrooke:

I've seen it happen to friends living abroad, especially in relationships with non-native speakers, where you spend most of your time communicating in your native tongue with non-native speakers.

I think it affects people differently, the same way as regional accents do. Some people hang on to their regional accent regardless of where they move to, others accents change and assimilate to that of the region in which they are living.

I do find JP hard to listen to though.

In reply to galpinos:

I sound a bit posh, but having moved to Sheffield I'd love to 'Yorkshire it up' a bit as I really like the accent. I don't think it would work though: you kind of have to go 'all in' (which would be daft) or not at all. Check back in ten years time and we'll see if I'm 'off down t'pub' or not

In reply to ChrisBrooke:

I'm in a similar situation, sounding a bit posh, living in Manchester, wife from the NE. My eldest (3yo) is constantly telling me of for saying "barth" instead of bath.

In reply to ChrisBrooke:


Having been born and lived the first 14 years of my life in East Kilbride and the next 15 between Cambridge and London, I've ended up with an accent from somewhere in the vicinity of Edinburgh. Occasionally I throw in a 'that's pure dead brilliant, by the way' just to confuse people.

In reply to galpinos:

Not sure how it'll go with my 2 y/o daughter. I don't want to confuse her, but I can't quite bring myself not to say grarss, barth, etc It just sounds wrong

In reply to galpinos:

I did the same talking to people when we were slumming round Europe in our van. You get used to speaking with a vocabulary and phrase style that your audience will be more used to. Seems to be honest the least you can do if you're forcing them to work in your language!

In reply to mark s:

Iam sure Chris Sharma is the same, his voice /accent can be strange at times