This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
![[Toru Nakajima on Elm Street, Millstone - E8, 3 kb]](http://img.ukclimbing.com/t/122452.jpg "[Toru Nakajima on Elm Street, Millstone - E8, 3 kb]")
15 year old Toru Nakajima has continued his gritstone rampage with ascents of Elm Street (E8) at Millstone and the project arete right of Simba's Pride at Burbage which he has named Black Out - at a proposed a grade of E9 6c.
Commenting on the grade Toru said simply:
"It was harder than Simba's Pride (E8) and easier than Equilibrium (E10)."
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=48913
In reply to UKC News: very impressive, more so that he enjoyed stoney, what a good chap.
In reply to UKC News:
Loving what this kid is doing, confirms all our prejudices about the glory of Peak grit!
Loving what this kid is doing, confirms all our prejudices about the glory of Peak grit!
In reply to UKC News:
But what's he ever done on choss?
But what's he ever done on choss?
In reply to UKC News:
E9???????? its 7 meters for god sake. yeah it may well be hard but give it a bouldering grade, if he's going to use a bouldering mat then give it a boundering grade.
centurion05
E9???????? its 7 meters for god sake. yeah it may well be hard but give it a bouldering grade, if he's going to use a bouldering mat then give it a boundering grade.
centurion05
1
In reply to centurion05:
A 15 year old lad comes to England and climbs Last Great Problem, 5 miles from the self-styled Capital of UK Climbing, in less than ideal conditions ...and all you can do is whinge about the grade! Get a grip. He could give it 5.14R/X, highball Yon Dan, or XS and it wouldn't make the slightest bit of difference to what is a most impressive piece of climbing.
Massive respect to Toru and good luck to him on Equilibrium. It would be so good if he managed to get that ticked in mid-summer.
A 15 year old lad comes to England and climbs Last Great Problem, 5 miles from the self-styled Capital of UK Climbing, in less than ideal conditions ...and all you can do is whinge about the grade! Get a grip. He could give it 5.14R/X, highball Yon Dan, or XS and it wouldn't make the slightest bit of difference to what is a most impressive piece of climbing.
Massive respect to Toru and good luck to him on Equilibrium. It would be so good if he managed to get that ticked in mid-summer.
In reply to centurion05: do yourself a favour and shut the fook up!!!!
what this lad has done is amazing considering the conditions.it has been tried by lots of people and is obviously very hard.i spotted him on elm street and he cruised it.i saw him working this route and it looked massivly harder.harder than e8? e9!!
well done toru...
what this lad has done is amazing considering the conditions.it has been tried by lots of people and is obviously very hard.i spotted him on elm street and he cruised it.i saw him working this route and it looked massivly harder.harder than e8? e9!!
well done toru...
In reply to mark s: Centurion has a point -- the news article screams "new Burbage E9" in the title so he's entitled to feel a bit disappointed in finding it was done as a highball boulder problem and thus would be better graded and described that way, not as a full-fledged route. (I realise there's an overlap and two/three/four sets of grades could be applied.)
Yes. Not really relevant to Centurion's point though.
> what this lad has done is amazing considering the conditions
Yes. Not really relevant to Centurion's point though.
In reply to Alex C:
Come on, I the first to cry foul when people claim an E grade instead of a V grade, but a single mat and spotters on that! hardly counts as a highball!
Come on, I the first to cry foul when people claim an E grade instead of a V grade, but a single mat and spotters on that! hardly counts as a highball!
In reply to whom it concerns:
Looking at the picture of roof route - his route looks more like an E9 rather than some poxy highball to me.
Actually, i wish bouldering grades would just f off and only be used for routes up to 5 mtrs.
Looking at the picture of roof route - his route looks more like an E9 rather than some poxy highball to me.
Actually, i wish bouldering grades would just f off and only be used for routes up to 5 mtrs.
In reply to Jon Read: I'm normally the first to not give a shit about this sort of thing, but I get annoyed by people saying things like:
"do yourself a favour and shut the fook up!!!!"
Particularly when the article itself says:
'Toru described it as "a highball..." '
"do yourself a favour and shut the fook up!!!!"
Particularly when the article itself says:
'Toru described it as "a highball..." '
In reply to centurion05: Have u seen the landing! u will change your mind then!
In reply to The Pylon King:
Unfortunately that would necessitate excavating the base of the grit crags to make the routes longer. As it stands, Font grades are the most appropriate.
> (In reply to whom it concerns)
>
> Actually, i wish bouldering grades would just f off and only be used for routes up to 5 mtrs.
>
> Actually, i wish bouldering grades would just f off and only be used for routes up to 5 mtrs.
Unfortunately that would necessitate excavating the base of the grit crags to make the routes longer. As it stands, Font grades are the most appropriate.
In reply to Alex C:
Blimey, if you read my comment and opinion as expressing that, you're exceptionally oversensitive. I certainly know how I would characterise this route (there, I just have done so). I politely suggest to those who who argue that this new addition to Burbage South is indeed a mere highball unworthy of a traditional grade that they have a considerably different concept of danger to me, and will applaud them when they take up their own challenge.
A better definition of highball is a route that Andy Popp calls a highball.
> "do yourself a favour and shut the fook up!!!!"
Blimey, if you read my comment and opinion as expressing that, you're exceptionally oversensitive. I certainly know how I would characterise this route (there, I just have done so). I politely suggest to those who who argue that this new addition to Burbage South is indeed a mere highball unworthy of a traditional grade that they have a considerably different concept of danger to me, and will applaud them when they take up their own challenge.
A better definition of highball is a route that Andy Popp calls a highball.
In reply to Fraser:
I just googled Japanese bouldering grade, found this, and took a guess: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=264
I just googled Japanese bouldering grade, found this, and took a guess: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=264
In reply to Jon Read:
I had another look at Star Trek/Klingon on Stanage the other day - described as high balls in the Definitive (Andy soloed the former) - big balls would be a lot more accurate!
Chris
>
> A better definition of highball is a route that Andy Popp calls a highball.
> A better definition of highball is a route that Andy Popp calls a highball.
I had another look at Star Trek/Klingon on Stanage the other day - described as high balls in the Definitive (Andy soloed the former) - big balls would be a lot more accurate!
Chris
In reply to flaneur:
Brilliant - I'm gonna start applying the Ogawayama grading system to all Dumby problems.
peterp
Brilliant - I'm gonna start applying the Ogawayama grading system to all Dumby problems.
peterp
In reply to gabriel_m:
Yeah get him on a proper route like say 'Breakaway'.
> (In reply to UKC News)
> But what's he ever done on choss?
> But what's he ever done on choss?
Yeah get him on a proper route like say 'Breakaway'.
In reply to UKC News: Just been climbing at Black Rocks and watched him smash Gaia in a very short space of time. Very inspiring to watch a young, incredibly talented 'yoof' make light work of such a brilliant route. I'm really intrested by the fact that he doesn't appear to weighed down by the history, or for that matter 'conditions', of these big routes. As we left he was setting up to work Meshuga. Very polite guy as well and seemed very chuffed with his work, he deserves all the praise going.
In reply to UKC News:I met him in Burbage, taking pictures of random bits of rock, really nice kid.
What do you all think? Doesn't this expose the urban myth which is uk climbing standards and the perceived 'superiority' of the trad approach? I've climbed with no end of overseas climbers brought up on grid bolting who acclimatise to high E numbers with no perceptible problems.
What do you all think? Doesn't this expose the urban myth which is uk climbing standards and the perceived 'superiority' of the trad approach? I've climbed with no end of overseas climbers brought up on grid bolting who acclimatise to high E numbers with no perceptible problems.
In reply to Zoomer:
I was there as well. Amazing to watch, just breathtaking.
> (In reply to UKC News) Just been climbing at Black Rocks and watched him smash Gaia in a very short space of time. Very inspiring to watch a young, incredibly talented 'yoof' make light work of such a brilliant route. I'm really intrested by the fact that he doesn't appear to weighed down by the history, or for that matter 'conditions', of these big routes. As we left he was setting up to work Meshuga. Very polite guy as well and seemed very chuffed with his work, he deserves all the praise going.
I was there as well. Amazing to watch, just breathtaking.
In reply to paul_in_cumbria:
Isn't the argument against the grid bolting that you mention rather about not destroying the challenge of a traditional approach and/or not making our cliffs really boring and looking like shit, than it is about improving performance?
It's generally accepted is it not, that sport climbing is good training for trad climbing?
Isn't the argument against the grid bolting that you mention rather about not destroying the challenge of a traditional approach and/or not making our cliffs really boring and looking like shit, than it is about improving performance?
It's generally accepted is it not, that sport climbing is good training for trad climbing?
In reply to UKC News:
whats more serious if you fall off? Indian face or this gritstone route? the E grade isnt really correctly used here.
Im not taking it away from the boy, its a tough route.
centurion05
whats more serious if you fall off? Indian face or this gritstone route? the E grade isnt really correctly used here.
Im not taking it away from the boy, its a tough route.
centurion05
In reply to centurion05:
When is it ever? It's fuzzy, always has been, always will be.
Look, this young man has had a great trip, done some outstanding repeats, grabbed a new one, and how old is he - 15 (yes I have met him, Jack picked him up from the airport).
He's done a hard new route, extremely hard moves and if you fall off you injure yourself or worse.
He's probably graded compared to what he has done on this trip.
So less of the 'this isn't this, or this is this' ... who gives a damn!
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> the E grade isnt really correctly used here.
>
> the E grade isnt really correctly used here.
When is it ever? It's fuzzy, always has been, always will be.
Look, this young man has had a great trip, done some outstanding repeats, grabbed a new one, and how old is he - 15 (yes I have met him, Jack picked him up from the airport).
He's done a hard new route, extremely hard moves and if you fall off you injure yourself or worse.
He's probably graded compared to what he has done on this trip.
So less of the 'this isn't this, or this is this' ... who gives a damn!
In reply to centurion05:
What are you on about? Indian face is fairly easy, very necky climbing. The new Burbage thing (does it have a name?) is very hard, necky but probably survivable climbing. The beauty of the UK grade system is that it can (when common sense and a couple of brain cells are applied) adequately describe both routes.
Are you trying to make some point here or are you really not getting it?
You certainly appear to be trying!
For what it's worth I wouldn't jump of the top of there onto 5 mats and a couple of spotters let alone slip and fall out of control onto (or more likely not onto) one mat.
Grow up and stop whining.
jk
> whats more serious if you fall off? Indian face or this gritstone route? the E grade isnt really correctly used here.
What are you on about? Indian face is fairly easy, very necky climbing. The new Burbage thing (does it have a name?) is very hard, necky but probably survivable climbing. The beauty of the UK grade system is that it can (when common sense and a couple of brain cells are applied) adequately describe both routes.
Are you trying to make some point here or are you really not getting it?
> Im not taking it away from the boy, its a tough route.
You certainly appear to be trying!
For what it's worth I wouldn't jump of the top of there onto 5 mats and a couple of spotters let alone slip and fall out of control onto (or more likely not onto) one mat.
Grow up and stop whining.
jk
In reply to jkarran:
Whining? how is it that whenever you post anything on this website, with a slight view of your own opinion, you get hammered by most people.
I know what i'm talking about, try not to sound so patronising when you reply next JK. Every single move on the route will have to be 6c for it to warrent E9 with it only being 7 meters.
Indian Face easy??? OK
Centurion05
> (In reply to centurion05)
>
> Grow up and stop whining.
> jk
>
> Grow up and stop whining.
> jk
Whining? how is it that whenever you post anything on this website, with a slight view of your own opinion, you get hammered by most people.
I know what i'm talking about, try not to sound so patronising when you reply next JK. Every single move on the route will have to be 6c for it to warrent E9 with it only being 7 meters.
Indian Face easy??? OK
Centurion05
In reply to centurion05: Its a bad landing, the route next to it is Roof Route 8mts, Black Out has a hard move, right at the top, I would think its inevitabely E8/9. Until somebody repeats it we can't know.
In reply to centurion05:
Because your initial post was daft and lacked any grace perhaps.
Would you really consider falling 7m onto rocks (pad or no pad because there's always a good chance of missing) to be 'safe'?
I apologise for being patronising, I'm trying not to be.
I actually said 'fairly easy', in a direct comparison* between the two routes I'd suggest that's probably fair. It was a comparative statement that you've taken out of context.
* based on their grades and descriptions in the media, I've unsurprisingly not been on them, if you have then fair enough
jk
> Whining? how is it that whenever you post anything on this website, with a slight view of your own opinion, you get hammered by most people.
Because your initial post was daft and lacked any grace perhaps.
> I know what i'm talking about, try not to sound so patronising when you reply next JK. Every single move on the route will have to be 6c for it to warrent E9 with it only being 7 meters.
Would you really consider falling 7m onto rocks (pad or no pad because there's always a good chance of missing) to be 'safe'?
I apologise for being patronising, I'm trying not to be.
> Indian Face easy??? OK
I actually said 'fairly easy', in a direct comparison* between the two routes I'd suggest that's probably fair. It was a comparative statement that you've taken out of context.
* based on their grades and descriptions in the media, I've unsurprisingly not been on them, if you have then fair enough
jk
In reply to centurion05:
Given his experience of climbing at that difficulty level, I would think he has a slightly better understanding of the grading than you do.
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> E9???????? its 7 meters for god sake. yeah it may well be hard but give it a bouldering grade, if he's going to use a bouldering mat then give it a boundering grade.
>
> centurion05
>
> E9???????? its 7 meters for god sake. yeah it may well be hard but give it a bouldering grade, if he's going to use a bouldering mat then give it a boundering grade.
>
> centurion05
Given his experience of climbing at that difficulty level, I would think he has a slightly better understanding of the grading than you do.
1
In reply to centurion05:
So, if you know so much prehaps you'd tell the rest of us how hard every single move on this route actually is?
Besides:
Commenting on the grade Toru said simply:
"It was harder than Simba's Pride (E8) and easier than Equilibrium (E10)."
so the chances are he's not the one proposing E9
> I know what i'm talking about, try not to sound so patronising when you reply next JK..... Every single move on the route will have to be 6c for it to warrent E9
So, if you know so much prehaps you'd tell the rest of us how hard every single move on this route actually is?
Besides:
Commenting on the grade Toru said simply:
"It was harder than Simba's Pride (E8) and easier than Equilibrium (E10)."
so the chances are he's not the one proposing E9
In reply to Tyler: I've try'd both these routes, simba's pride is total piss to an easy but offable slap at the top. flashed on a rope after not climbing for months. As for the thing to right couldn't do a single move when i was climbing well and it was cold, and it's got a horror show for a landing.
So give the boy E9 it's August 4 feck's sake!
live a little, you can't compare grit routes to mountain routes,or short solos to massive involved lonely leads. Can you say beginers mind is the same grade as masters wall? no you can't.
So give the boy E9 it's August 4 feck's sake!
live a little, you can't compare grit routes to mountain routes,or short solos to massive involved lonely leads. Can you say beginers mind is the same grade as masters wall? no you can't.
In reply to Aide jebb: oh and good effort to the lad, a another very very good climber comes over and crushes, cool. lets have some more. Send them to Wales though.
In reply to Aide jebb:
Did you mean to reply to me? I've no problem with the grade, I was just curious to learn Centurion's credentials for questioning the grade.
Did you mean to reply to me? I've no problem with the grade, I was just curious to learn Centurion's credentials for questioning the grade.
In reply to Chris F:
didnt he say it was a highball also, seems to be a bouldering route to him,
> (In reply to centurion05)
> [...]
>
> Given his experience of climbing at that difficulty level, I would think he has a slightly better understanding of the grading than you do.
> [...]
>
> Given his experience of climbing at that difficulty level, I would think he has a slightly better understanding of the grading than you do.
didnt he say it was a highball also, seems to be a bouldering route to him,
In reply to jkarran:
has every bouldering route got a good landing??????
> (In reply to centurion05)
>
> [...]
>
> Because your initial post was daft and lacked any grace perhaps.
>
but was too the point, i think the routes hard, but doesn't deserve the E9 grade, what's the big deal anyway, would a E9 sound much better than a V13???>
> [...]
>
> Because your initial post was daft and lacked any grace perhaps.
>
> [...]
>
> Would you really consider falling 7m onto rocks (pad or no pad because there's always a good chance of missing) to be 'safe'?
>
> Would you really consider falling 7m onto rocks (pad or no pad because there's always a good chance of missing) to be 'safe'?
has every bouldering route got a good landing??????
>
> I apologise for being patronising, I'm trying not to be.
>
> [...]
>
> I actually said 'fairly easy', in a direct comparison* between the two routes I'd suggest that's probably fair. It was a comparative statement that you've taken out of context.
>
> * based on their grades and descriptions in the media, I've unsurprisingly not been on them, if you have then fair enough
>
> jk
> I apologise for being patronising, I'm trying not to be.
>
> [...]
>
> I actually said 'fairly easy', in a direct comparison* between the two routes I'd suggest that's probably fair. It was a comparative statement that you've taken out of context.
>
> * based on their grades and descriptions in the media, I've unsurprisingly not been on them, if you have then fair enough
>
> jk
In reply to centurion05: Whys the grade have to be a argument? the lads 15 and climbing FAs and repeating some of the hardest routes in the world, Trad and Bouldering, for me thats amazing, good efort Toru!
Try it again Will.
But this time try to refrain from calling people names.
But this time try to refrain from calling people names.
In reply to UKC News: I flashed it onsight, using mayonnaise instead of chalk, and wearing high heels with a ryvita in place of a bouldering mat.
I'd give it font 5 or maybe VS 5b.
I'd give it font 5 or maybe VS 5b.
In reply to Tyler:
No i Just clicked on your reply sorry.
Oh and duck egg you sure that was mayo on your hands?
> (In reply to Aide jebb)
>
> Did you mean to reply to me? I've no problem with the grade, I was just curious to learn Centurion's credentials for questioning the grade.
>
> Did you mean to reply to me? I've no problem with the grade, I was just curious to learn Centurion's credentials for questioning the grade.
No i Just clicked on your reply sorry.
Oh and duck egg you sure that was mayo on your hands?
In reply to UKC News:
Amazing. There are obviously two different breeds of teenager out there: the ones that I know who can't get their arses out of bed in the morning and those that can be motivated to rise to close to the top of the pile by the age of 15.
How come no "team Nippon" hype along the lines of the "team America" hype ?
Amazing. There are obviously two different breeds of teenager out there: the ones that I know who can't get their arses out of bed in the morning and those that can be motivated to rise to close to the top of the pile by the age of 15.
How come no "team Nippon" hype along the lines of the "team America" hype ?
In reply to GrahamD:
Err cos its not a "Team" perhaps?
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
>
>
> How come no "team Nippon" hype along the lines of the "team America" hype ?
>
>
>
> How come no "team Nippon" hype along the lines of the "team America" hype ?
Err cos its not a "Team" perhaps?
1
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...