UKC

25 year old Italian climber Jenny Lavarda has made the third ascent of the multi-pitch Dolomites test-piece Solo per vecchi guerrieri (F7c, F7b+, F8b, F8c+/9a).

What makes Jenny's effort on Solo per vecchi guerrieri particularly note-worthy (on top of the fact that it's bloody F8c+/9a!) is the additional difficulty of climbing at this level on a multi-pitch route.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=49752

In reply to UKC News:

wow! Amazing.

In reply to UKC News:

Pretty amazing stuff. Out of interest, are pitches graded strictly independently (that is: would it be 8c+/9a straight off the ground)?

In reply to GrahamD: I always wonder this. Do you have to redpoint all the pitches consecutively with no falls for it to count or can you redpoint them individually.

In which case can you do them over a matter of time?

In reply to UKC News:
I think the route it's very hard, also because the hardest pitch is the last and you arrive there very tired above all with fingers...

Class quote - class lady

In reply to Removed User:

yeah, not sure either. I did a route on Saturday that had 4 pumpy 6b/ 6b+ pitches into a supossed 7a+ final pitch.

I'm pretty sure that in isolation the 7a+ would not be harder than 6c. However, 300m of pumpy climbing leading into the final pitch sure made it feel like 7a+!

In reply to UKC News:

ps. nice looking dyno in the photo

In reply to UKC News: fantasic, looks amazing

In reply to Jus:

yeah and i wonder who she's sponsored by....it's a bit hard to tell :¬

In reply to Removed User:

Depends how strict you are. As far as I know a/the common view on the continent is that it hasto be a single push to count.

In reply to UKC News:

Exactly how many of the worlds other 8c+s and 9as are vert? Right now I can't think of that more than two vert font 8as and one of them's a slab! An 8c+ with a font 8a double dyno crux would take most people more than one redpoint attempt. Impressive indeed, although I think many of these high end alpine sport grades need to be treated with a pinch of salt (in my world I just subtract two). That still makes it really frickin cool.

Or is the vert bit one of the other pitches?

To offer an explanation - isnt' it just a bit morpho?

But anyway. Sounds like a totally amazing route. Incredibly good effort. Someone give her a plane ticket to America. Couple of routes the men can't do need repeating.

She sounds like a brilliant climber who's on top form. I'm just saying this is never in a million years the same as Action Directe done first or second go after two grade 7 pitches and an 8b. Are people really that good now (honestly I'd like to know)?

In reply to UKC News: incredible effort!!! just to be exact about the name given by manolo: "solo per vecchi guerrieri" means "for old warriors only"