Jim Perrin pens a tribute to Joe Brown, who passed away on 15 April. An edited version of this obituary originally appeared in The Guardian.
'Mountaineering has a levelling tendency. Self-promotion is met with mockery. Few of its would-be heroes escape reductive scrutiny. Accident and failure are often accorded greater respect than organisation or success. Yet even the devotees of the sport would accord heroic status to one figure above all others — Joe Brown, who has died aged 89.'
He pulled me to the ground and boxed me about the ears for risking his life and limb, scolding me for what he called the loosest route he had ever done. But he was laughing, laughing, and we ran back in perfect humour across the unmarked beach, the cliff crumbling slowly behind us in the western light, the waves rolling against it. He needed the simplicity of that conflict, and the character that emerged from it was perhaps the sweetest I ever knew, still generous and endearingly funny as he endured with dignity and humour the ill health of his final years.
When I saw the accompanying b&w photo of Joe in his later years my first thought was 'what a fantastic statue'. It has a kind of great explorer feel, like the pre-First World War Antarctic giants such as Scott or Amundsen. If ever a climber deserved a statue then Joe would probably be prime candidate. But where (if anywhere) would be an appropriate site?
> When I saw the accompanying b&w photo of Joe in his later years my first thought was 'what a fantastic statue'. It has a kind of great explorer feel, like the pre-First World War Antarctic giants such as Scott or Amundsen. If ever a climber deserved a statue then Joe would probably be prime candidate. But where (if anywhere) would be an appropriate site?
Near the lake / big car park below the Royal Vic, with Joe pointing at Cloggy, like the one of Saussure in Chamonix
> If you carry on up the road for a few miles and then glance along the hillside, you'll see a fantastic memorial to Joe Brown. > Mick
Brilliant reply, Mick. And of course more broadly, all Brown's routes are a great memorial to The Master
Sorry that I'm dead against a statue, because it's clear he would not have wanted one - not his style. Needless to say I didn't know Joe Brown, but I did have a short chat with him once in Llanberis - what a pleasant man, giving me (a climbing teenager) thought and time when I asked him a question
Thank you, Jim Perrin, for this. I won't presume to say that you've done Joe Brown justice, as I never met him and have only climbed a few of his (less hard) routes; but I will say that it fits beautifully with everything I've ever read, heard and seen on film.
And thank you, UKC, both for taking the time to ensure that Joe Brown's obituary really is a fitting one, and for asking Jim Perrin to do the job.
> Thank you, Jim Perrin, for this. I won't presume to say that you've done Joe Brown justice, as I never met him and have only climbed a few of his (less hard) routes; but I will say that it fits beautifully with everything I've ever read, heard and seen on film.
> And thank you, UKC, both for taking the time to ensure that Joe Brown's obituary really is a fitting one, and for asking Jim Perrin to do the job.
> RIP Joe.
I think it was probably the Guardian he wrote it for, it has the feel of an obituary written for a non climbing audience (contrast with some of his other elegies). I'd like to hope he could write a more personal piece in addition.
Funny, I read the piece without noticing who its author was. By the end it was obviously Jim Perrin at work and so it proved. Just shows how much of his stuff I've read over the years that I can spot him a mile off.
I read it about 50 yrs ago, had my own copy at the time. But my brother took it when he emigrated to Canada shortly after. I think i'll order one from the library, when they re-open that is.
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Elsewhere on the site
Digital Feature An Oral History of the First Winter Ascent of K2
Product News DOLOMITE Velocissima
Press Release Berghaus to promote diversity, inclusion and mental health with new ambassadors
Fri Night Vid Best of the West - Classic Hueco Tanks Bouldering Flick
This week's Friday Night Video is the classic bouldering film Best of the West. Set in Texas' Hueco Tanks, the film stars Chris Sharma, Boone Speed, Steve Maisch, GP Salvo, Jason Kehl, Mike Beck, Tim Kemple and more. A...
