The well-travelled Sheffield (UK) couple of John and Anne Arran have just made almost-free ascents of two big wall routes in the rock spire wonderland of Nangma Valley in Pakistan's Karakorum mountains.
I've seen her 'in action' twice - once onsighting (or so it looked) Fay in superb style at Sharpnose - not reported as far as I know - and once belaying someone at Bamford. It has to be said that she looked a lot more competent leading than she did belaying, with a huge loop of slack ensuring deck out potential all the way up for her non too secure leader.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
When did you see me at Bamford, I've only been there once, or maybe twice leading, I think with John & Ian Parnell? Prob the leader hadn't clipped any gear?? Sharpnose is a cool crag, that was my first visit and there's plenty more to do? Which route were you on?
Hi Ann (I guess - not John) - at Bamford probably a couple of years back ? one of the roundy HVS things who's name escapes me. You weren't climbing with a bloke, then though. If it wasn't you then you have an identical twin out there !
We saw you and John at Sharpnose one Easter Monday (was that last year ?) - you kindly pointed us to the superb E1 which was probably your warm up ! That and a couple of HVS - we probably nearly climbed the place out at our grades.
In reply to john arran:
Hi there John, I was in the Karakoram this july/ august ( on the choktoi glacier) and I heard alot of good reports about the namgma valley, especially for rock towers.
I wondered if you had any pics of the area and info on anything that may stil be unclimbed in the area. I am just starting to get some info for a trip again next summer so would appreciate anything you have to offer.
p.s. you can get me on email email@example.com if you like
Wow, I can't believe you guys have been hanging on a bolt I’ve drilled! A real honour!
I wonder if you knew that the bolts for your first 5-6 belays where placed by a group of 9 HotRock'ers which were trying their hand on big routing in June 2004.
We were trying to do a new route, using a lot of aid + free climbing and learning loads. The weather and lack of experience stopped us approx. half way up at the thin seam. I guess we shouldn't have moved right there.
I'm going to upload a few photos of us and the line of the route to my profile. Have a look.
It's great to see that you have climbed the wall in such good style!
I wonder if the Austrians mentioned in the article where the four who put up camp in the valley when we left? Any more info on them?
Wow, it's bringing back so many memories. Hope you enjoyed the place and people as much as I did.
Please drop us a line if you want to know anymore about what we did up there. Or maybe want to critique our bolting.
Knowing nothing of your trip, we presumed tha Austrian team had equipped the lower belays, but it makes perfect sense now as there seemed to be quite a few descent slings around on the lower section so we were wondering who else may have been up there.
Yes, we enjoyed it very much. Difficult not to, really, as it's such a stunning valley. Such good fun as well, launching up cracks in a huge bit of granite, not knowing whether they will connect or just fizzle out into blank rock.
I'd love to see your pictures and find out exactly where you went.
luisa: there is still huge potential in the area for unclimbed peaks, walls and icefalls. we have lots of photos, so if you can narrow down the kind of thing you may be interested in we may be able to suggest a few possibilities and send photos.
Congratulations girl! A successful summer in many ways!
I have been working my little socks of this summer but heading out to Pyrenees on the 14th October for a week and then over to Picos for a week. Can't wait to do some well hopefully dry climbing. 16th November I am heading out to Nepal for 3 weeks work and then 3 weeks play.
If you are in Spain or in the Pyrenees (or maybe even Nepal) round those dates by the off chance, give me a call or send me an email. It Would be great to catch up sometime.
You know there is always space in sunny Newtonmore if you are around this part of the world.