UKC

NEWS: Johnny Dawes, Manchester Concrete Classic, circa 1984

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 Michael Ryan 05 Jul 2007
Once upon a time there was a little bouncing boy who just loved to climb.

That boy grew into a man and climbed many of the most stunning lines on Gritstone. His name, the one and only Johnny Dawes. Rumour has it that back in the day, Johnny could climb anything.

Read more, with PHOTO at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/
 Tony the Blade 05 Jul 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Yeah but, what's he done on grit?
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: I seem to remember some one breaking an ankle or leg on the outing to the Mancway. Was it Ben? And I think it was 1985.
 seagull 05 Jul 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Stylin outfit. I have many similar fashion faux pas pics from the same era but my excuse was I was a kid imitating my heroes...
Craig Smith 05 Jul 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

BTW,this problem is called Concrete Society. It's not too hard to figure out why.

Cheers,

C
 seagull 05 Jul 2007
In reply to GraemeA at home:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com) I seem to remember some one breaking an ankle or leg on the outing to the Mancway. Was it Ben? And I think it was 1985.

Ah the joyous days of bouldering without mats!

 Hugh Cottam 05 Jul 2007
In reply to Craig Smith:

So presumably in 1968 the Society considered this a particularly great piece of Concrete. I'd hate to see the also-rans. Wonder if they're still banging out awards.
 Hugh Cottam 05 Jul 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

I'm obviously having a dull day.

www.concrete.org.uk

Commences "On our site you can find out more about concrete".

At least they get straight to the point. And they're still doing the Awards.
 pmot 05 Jul 2007
wow.
not only was Dawes ahead of his time on rock, but he totally foresaw the whole leggings/shorts combo seen in East london and on budget girls everywhere.. he could have gone on to design for Topshop i reckon

 Matt Rees 05 Jul 2007
In reply to Hugh Cottam:

I think that back then, that bridge (I used to walk under it every day to get to Uni), represented a significant advance in concrete technology and the kind of things you could do with it as a building material.

It's still pretty ugly though.
 Hugh Cottam 05 Jul 2007
In reply to Matt Rees:

I'm going to draw the line at getting into an argument about concrete.
hugedyno 05 Jul 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

....yeah, but what's he ever done on Concrete?

;-P
HD.
 Matt Rees 05 Jul 2007
In reply to Hugh Cottam:

Come ooooooooon. You said you were bored, right?

BTW. This bridge is the "Highway in the Sky" that features at the start of the first episode of Life on Mars, where DCI Tyler gets nailed by the passing car.

"You are surrounded by armed bastards............."




 Jon Read 05 Jul 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Great stuff, Craig.
 Mark Kemball 05 Jul 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: I remember him taking me on a tour of those problems - they were hard - couldn't get off the ground on most of them!
 MeMeMe 05 Jul 2007
In reply to Hugh Cottam:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
>
> I'm obviously having a dull day.
>
> www.concrete.org.uk
>
> Commences "On our site you can find out more about concrete".

Holy crap, if you thought UKC forums could be a little dull some days then you should read the forums on that site.
Kipper 05 Jul 2007
In reply to Hugh Cottam:
>
> ... Wonder if they're still banging out awards.

Yes - I work in an Award Winner (previous winners in this category have included New Medway Bridge, M2 motorway, Kent, Concrete Structures A34 Newbury Bypass and the West Retaining Wall, Pen-y-Clip Tunnel, Gwynedd, North Wales so it's in good company ).

 Hugh Cottam 05 Jul 2007
In reply to Kipper:

I presume that was just two items and not a massive list. Though I believe Kent does have quite a bit of concrete. Lots on the M2 I suspect.
 Bill Mckee 05 Jul 2007
In reply to Mark Kemball:
Very height dependent though! I've forgotten the name of the arete on the other side of the Concrete Society bridge - a mirror image of CS - but it seemed OK for those 5'11' in height or more. I've got some old slides of these routes somewhere too.
Kipper 05 Jul 2007
In reply to Hugh Cottam:
>
> I presume that was just two items and not a massive list.

Yes - sorry; cut and paste from the Awards list.
Anonymous 05 Jul 2007
In reply to Bill Mckee:
> (In reply to Mark Kemball)
> Very height dependent though! I've forgotten the name of the arete on the other side of the Concrete Society bridge - a mirror image of CS - but it seemed OK for those 5'11' in height or more. I've got some old slides of these routes somewhere too.

Johnny is 5'5". h
 BrianT 06 Jul 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Nice pic. I remember a copy of the LUMC journal having a pic of a blonde-haired lass called Rachel something or other (Nicholson?) climbing on one of the Leeds University buildings a bit like that, whilst her mate sat on a plastic chair in the long-gone pond below. You'd remember that Mick.

PS Craig did Andy Sugden mail you? He was trying to get in touch.
Craig Smith 06 Jul 2007
In reply to BrianT:

Hi Brian,

How goes it? No suggy hasn't been in touch.

Cheers,

C
 BrianT 06 Jul 2007
In reply to Craig Smith:
I'm sound. Is Mick dragging you along to the Cliffhanger do in Sheff in a couple of weeks?
 andi turner 06 Jul 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

That's a great picture. I also love the fact that it's a proper nice day and he's still climbing in Manc. Makes you think he must have missed the bus or had a lecture to go to or something.
 BrianT 06 Jul 2007
In reply to andi turner: Buildering seems to be not as popular as it once was. I used to love the henry price wall in Leeds, and I remember a wall on Alma Road in headingley used to get a lot of use too. I guess it's sort of been taken over by Parkour.
 Chris Harris 06 Jul 2007
In reply to BrianT:

> Nice pic. I remember a copy of the LUMC journal having a pic of a blonde-haired lass called Rachel something or other (Nicholson?) climbing on one of the Leeds University buildings a bit like that, whilst her mate sat on a plastic chair in the long-gone pond below. You'd remember that Mick.

That was the 1987/8 journal. It was Rachel N, with my mate Harvey (can't remember the bugger's surname) sat in the chair. I have a copy at home somewhere.
There's also a pic in it of a certain M Ryan doing a little illegal concrete buildering.


OP Michael Ryan 06 Jul 2007
In reply to Chris Harris:
> (In reply to BrianT)
>
> [...]
>
> That was the 1987/8 journal.

Was it Martin Wilson in the chair or did he take the pic?
 Souljah 06 Jul 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Great pic, but your just teasing us, when are the rest of the slides gonna be going up?
OP Michael Ryan 06 Jul 2007
In reply to Souljah:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
>
> Great pic, but your just teasing us, when are the rest of the slides gonna be going up?

If we ask Craig nicely and all say please I'm sure he will oblige.

 BrianT 06 Jul 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
I think I sent my copy of that journal to you didn't I? If not, I will (if I can find it). It has a piece by you in it.
 Chris Harris 06 Jul 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
> (In reply to Chris Harris)
> [...]
>
> Was it Martin Wilson in the chair or did he take the pic?

No, it wasn't Martin, the bloke in the chair was on the same degree course as me, and was called Harvey something or other - got a mental block on his surname. I'll see if I can find it and will post some scans.
 Mark Kemball 06 Jul 2007
In reply to Anonymous:
> (In reply to Bill Mckee)
> [...]
>
> Johnny is 5'5". h

But even back then Johnny was brilliant. When he took us mere mortals to try the problems, it was the lanky gits that could get up them!
 Mark Kemball 06 Jul 2007
In reply to Bill Mckee:
> (In reply to Mark Kemball)
> I've got some old slides of these routes somewhere too.

Get them scaned and get them posted!
 Col Allott 06 Jul 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Sadly there's now a big metal fence directly under the arete in the photo. To stop kids running out in front of cyclists I reckon. Oh well, just means it now gets a big E-grade for its ball-busting potential!

These problems are a lot harder than they look. The big looking breaks are actually nasty 45 degree crimpy slopers - thats why you need the arete...
Simon Panton 06 Jul 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: I've got that journal. I remember a great piece about fast motorbikes by Al Manson.

The 80s really was the golden era for British climbing. I'm obsessed with that decade.
OP Michael Ryan 06 Jul 2007
In reply to Simon Panton:
>

> The 80s really was the golden era for British climbing.

Shirley 'a' golden era.

I like the one we are experiencing now.
Simon Panton 06 Jul 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Yes, yes, 'a' golden era, but arguably the most revolutionary, no?

OP Michael Ryan 06 Jul 2007
In reply to Simon Panton:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com) Yes, yes, 'a' golden era, but arguably the most revolutionary, no?

Sticky rubber, bolts, climbing walls, rockfax........yes you are right Simon.
Craig Smith 06 Jul 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:


> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com) Yes, yes, 'a' golden era, but arguably the most revolutionary, no?

Sticky rubber, bolts, climbing walls, rockfax........yes you are right Simon.

Er, you missed out sponsership and lycra

I think I feel a slide show coming on...
 BrianT 06 Jul 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: And the spread of chalk downwards through the grades 'til every VDiff was covered in it >-(
Simon Panton 06 Jul 2007
In reply to Craig Smith: If you put together such a slide show I can guarantee you a paying audience in Llanberis. What do you want on the rider? Wine gums, caviar, champagne, or all three?
Anonymous 06 Jul 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan ,Chris Harris: the guy on the seat in the rachel nicholson photo is called Greg
OP Michael Ryan 09 Jul 2007
In reply to Simon Panton: Thanks Simon. I'm working on it...when I've got it together I'll get in touch.

Peace,

C
 JIMBO 09 Jul 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Another slow news day then!
katim 09 Jul 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Well actually its Gaz Parry here just forgot me password. Anyway i climed the arete out of Stone Monkey about 10 year ago, an absolute classic, hard sequency and a great tick.

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