UKC

NEWS: Jordan Buys - Widdop Wall 2nd Ascent

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On 31st of January, Lancashire climber Jordan Buys crimped his way to the second ascent of the infamous Gritstone route Widdop Wall (E9 7a). First climbed over ten years ago by John Dunne, this rippled wall of Gritstone has until now repelled all would-be repeaters.

Jordan commented after climbing the route:

"This is by far the most challenging and inspiring route I have ever climbed on gritstone and I would confirm the grade of hard and sustained E9 7a / French 8b / 5.13d R."


Read More: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/
Eccles 02 Feb 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Marvellous.
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Was it Jordan that fell off near the top on a previous effort?

Anyway, well done on a top effort.
 peewee2008 02 Feb 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
I was there to witness this,it was an amazing effort by Jordan considering gale force winds blowing up the valley.

Well Done

Peter

alessandro di guglielmo 02 Feb 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Does this mean there will be a new Yorkie Grit guide now?
 220bpm 02 Feb 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

About time too!

Great piece of work, well done lad.
 John Cooke 02 Feb 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Incredible! Good work JB!!
 Hardonicus 02 Feb 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Get in that lad.
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

wow awesome. Specially after recent comments rating this routes difficulty as near the top of the E9 list. Wonder if Jordan agrees. Certainly sounds like it is.

Tim
 peewee2008 02 Feb 2009
In reply to tbertenshaw:

He made it look easy and effortless, something to aspire to.
Yorkspud 02 Feb 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Fantastic.

Was it originally led with that gear or was gear in Resevoir Dogs used? Or was that Scorched Earth?
samsamsam 02 Feb 2009
In reply to Yorkspud:

Savage Earth went up the arete of Resertvior Dogs then traversed in to takle the headwall above. This was then superseeded by Widdop Wall which added the direct start. Both by JD...
TimS 02 Feb 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Congrats Jordan, must have been baltic up there on saturday!

I guess that only leaves Loaded of all the big Dunne routes in Yorkshire?
In reply to TimS: Yes, major congratulations to Jordan. A super effort.

What a tick. He must be well pleased.

Funky looking rock, beautiful place, hard climbing. Must have been a good day!

Nice one! And I wish him good luck on the next routes (though I'd be going bouldering for a bit after that I reckon!).

Jack
 Dan Lane 02 Feb 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Good Job!!

Dan
 GrahamD 02 Feb 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Especially good to see after all the 'team America' hype of a few months back.
 Lemony 02 Feb 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Blimey!! Effort
 jl100 02 Feb 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: I was sure i posted earlier on this thread? anyway must be getting forgetful or something. Anyway amazing news. Was great to hear yesterday made a rather boring day being ill very exciting. To Graham D: I dont quite know why its especially good to see after all the team America hype i dont see why that has any influence on it. Did they even try it?
 peewee2008 02 Feb 2009
In reply to JoeL 90:

From what i heard i don't think they visited Widdop.

Don't hold me to that tho.
 Andy Moles 02 Feb 2009
In reply to JoeL 90:

I think he meant something like 'Damned good to see our brave British boys showing those Yanks what's what, what what.'
 jl100 02 Feb 2009
In reply to peewee2008: No i doubt they would i mean ive lived 35 minutes cycle from the place ever since i started climbing and even i woldn't visit it in November without a very good reason so having flown a third of the way round the world im guessing it wouldn't be too high on the list. I think they only visited Ilkley and Brimham in yorks?
In reply to AMo: My thoughts are that both the 'Team Amerca' thing and the stuff done by more local folk indicate that grit climbing has moved on a notch this winter.
 peewee2008 02 Feb 2009
In reply to JoeL 90:

Same here i live down the road from Thursden, A nice place to have as a local crag just round the corner.
 jl100 02 Feb 2009
In reply to peewee2008: I heard he had a little fall earlier in the day. was it onto the gear or lower down, or did you only see the final ascent?
 john howard 1 02 Feb 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Awesome effort.
 peewee2008 02 Feb 2009
In reply to JoeL 90: He had 2 falls, less than 1m onto the top piece of gear in the bolthole just above the break, he went for a run to warm up then climbed it on the 3rd attempt.

Peter
 jkarran 02 Feb 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Cool. Now I wonder who's going to get the first repeat of Loaded.
jk
 Alastair Lee 02 Feb 2009
In reply to AMo: Exactly, the lion roars, even if he is South African, so is/was our cricket team's captain but he doesn't live in Burnley. Well done Jordan you are my hero, you must teach me that celebratory dance some time... magnificent!
 peewee2008 02 Feb 2009
In reply to Alastair Lee:

Was The Packhourse open? or did you find some other pub to celebrate?

Peter
alessandro di guglielmo 02 Feb 2009
In reply to Alastair Lee:

BTW - Heard you on Radio 4's Excess Baggage. Where can I buy your book?
 Alastair Lee 02 Feb 2009
In reply to alessandro di guglielmo: Ah! I heard there was a listener... try here - https://www.posingproductions.com/product.php?form_action=detail&product_id=200
alessandro di guglielmo 02 Feb 2009
In reply to Alastair Lee:

Ta very much!
 James Oswald 02 Feb 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Does Equilibrium get the french grade of 8b? What makes W.W E9 and Equilibrium E10?
James
 Calder 02 Feb 2009
In reply to james oswald:
> (In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC)
> Does Equilibrium get the french grade of 8b? What makes W.W E9 and Equilibrium E10?
> James

Probably something to do with Widdop being in Yorkshire.
 James Oswald 02 Feb 2009
In reply to Calder:
Haha
 Andy Farnell 02 Feb 2009
In reply to james oswald: Equilibrium being F8b+, W.W. being F8b might have something to do with it...

Andy F
 Calder 02 Feb 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Full respect for Mr Buys for this, an absolutely tremendous effort. Hats off.
 James Oswald 02 Feb 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
And bloody awesome effort to him!!
James
 peteJ23 02 Feb 2009
The long awaited Burnley reawakening !
Come on Burnley!
 Nic 02 Feb 2009
In reply to GrahamD:

> Especially good to see after all the 'team America' hype of a few months back.

Quite right - British climbs for British climbers I say!
 telemarker 02 Feb 2009
In reply to Nic:

Haha, I like. Nothing like a bit of topical humour to brighten the evening.
 chris_j_s 02 Feb 2009
In reply to telemarker:
> (In reply to Nic)
>
> Haha, I like. Nothing like a bit of topical humour to brighten the evening.

Is that humour you can apply like a cream?!
 James Oswald 02 Feb 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Would you hit the ground falling off the crux of Equilibrium?
The 2nd Gresham Masterclass DVD makes it seem like the crux is slightly earlier on.
James
kristov 02 Feb 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: i watched thaught it was spectacular i have some pic but ill will wait for alister to give me the go ahead befor posting them
 mark s 02 Feb 2009
In reply to james oswald: go and try it,you planning an ascent?
 Duz Walker 02 Feb 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Wonderful stuff from Jordan.

Still gets beaten at Pool by girls though, we are all human.
 telemarker 02 Feb 2009
In reply to chris_j_s:

It is actually, comes in a range of factors.
 telemarker 02 Feb 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

p.s absolutely cracking climbing. Strong work.
 martin heywood 02 Feb 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:


Nice one Jordan.
 Paz 03 Feb 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Very well done Jordan (on your 8b ). This is maybe the most covetted recent repeat on Gritstone since Dawes sacked off Parthian.

Right then, about those Miles Gibson routes that noone ever tried...
 James Oswald 03 Feb 2009
In reply to Paz:
What makes this route E9 and Equilibrium E10?
Is it solely down to the extra french grade? Is the landing of W.W better?
James
 Michael Ryan 03 Feb 2009
In reply to james oswald:
> (In reply to Paz)
> What makes this route E9 and Equilibrium E10?
> Is it solely down to the extra french grade? Is the landing of W.W better?
> James


Grades are just rough estimates James. Don't get hung up about them.

Darn hard those two routes and can only be climbed by the best.

Mick
 mark s 03 Feb 2009
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: excactly,people seem to think that grades are writin in stone.they think its all black and white as to what grades a route should be because of "x" amount of danger X "x" difficulty = a set grade.as we know it just doesnt work like that.grades are not science
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: In any event it is a scientifically proven fact that all hard grit routes are E9 7a.
 James Oswald 03 Feb 2009
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
I understand how they work.
Merely interested in how the 2 routes can be distinguished from eachother.
James
 Michael Ryan 03 Feb 2009
In reply to james oswald:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
> I understand how they work.
> Merely interested in how the 2 routes can be distinguished from eachother.
> James

One is in Peakie land, the other in Yorkshire. Both are hard.

That's all you need to know.
 craig d 03 Feb 2009
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
> (In reply to james oswald)
> [...]
>
> One is in Peakie land, the other in Yorkshire. Both are hard.
>
> That's all you need to know.

And the Yanks didn't do either.
 Jordan B 04 Feb 2009
I would just like to say Cheers for all the top comments on this thread. It was a tough yorkshire cookie. Glad this winter is being so productive for alot of people too.
In reply to craig d:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
> [...]
>
> And the Yanks didn't do either.

Yeah. What have they ever done on grit?
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: BMC buys Wilton, Jordan buys Widdop, what's going on? ;0D
 munki1971 06 Feb 2009
Well done on completing the route. I was bouldering at Widdop around Xmas Eve and noticed a few cameras around. Be careful with your cars at Widdop reservoir car park though. Some joker stuck a "75% discount" sticker on the spoiler of my car a few weeks ago and it took the paint off when I removed it. hilarious.
 chris_j_s 06 Feb 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Are there any photos available of this?

Of all the cameras there I'm sure someone must be willing to share!
In reply to chris_j_s:

Most were probably Al Lee's video cameras!
 BrianT 07 Mar 2009
In reply to Calder:
> (In reply to james oswald)
> [...]
>
> Probably something to do with Widdop being in Yorkshire.

So is Burbage.

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