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On 31st of January, Lancashire climber Jordan Buys crimped his way to the second ascent of the infamous Gritstone route Widdop Wall (E9 7a). First climbed over ten years ago by John Dunne, this rippled wall of Gritstone has until now repelled all would-be repeaters.
Jordan commented after climbing the route:
"This is by far the most challenging and inspiring route I have ever climbed on gritstone and I would confirm the grade of hard and sustained E9 7a / French 8b / 5.13d R."
Read More: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/
Jordan commented after climbing the route:
"This is by far the most challenging and inspiring route I have ever climbed on gritstone and I would confirm the grade of hard and sustained E9 7a / French 8b / 5.13d R."
Read More: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Was it Jordan that fell off near the top on a previous effort?
Anyway, well done on a top effort.
Anyway, well done on a top effort.
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
I was there to witness this,it was an amazing effort by Jordan considering gale force winds blowing up the valley.
Well Done
Peter
I was there to witness this,it was an amazing effort by Jordan considering gale force winds blowing up the valley.
Well Done
Peter
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Get in that lad.
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
wow awesome. Specially after recent comments rating this routes difficulty as near the top of the E9 list. Wonder if Jordan agrees. Certainly sounds like it is.
Tim
wow awesome. Specially after recent comments rating this routes difficulty as near the top of the E9 list. Wonder if Jordan agrees. Certainly sounds like it is.
Tim
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Fantastic.
Was it originally led with that gear or was gear in Resevoir Dogs used? Or was that Scorched Earth?
Fantastic.
Was it originally led with that gear or was gear in Resevoir Dogs used? Or was that Scorched Earth?
In reply to Yorkspud:
Savage Earth went up the arete of Resertvior Dogs then traversed in to takle the headwall above. This was then superseeded by Widdop Wall which added the direct start. Both by JD...
Savage Earth went up the arete of Resertvior Dogs then traversed in to takle the headwall above. This was then superseeded by Widdop Wall which added the direct start. Both by JD...
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Congrats Jordan, must have been baltic up there on saturday!
I guess that only leaves Loaded of all the big Dunne routes in Yorkshire?
I guess that only leaves Loaded of all the big Dunne routes in Yorkshire?
In reply to TimS: Yes, major congratulations to Jordan. A super effort.
What a tick. He must be well pleased.
Funky looking rock, beautiful place, hard climbing. Must have been a good day!
Nice one! And I wish him good luck on the next routes (though I'd be going bouldering for a bit after that I reckon!).
Jack
What a tick. He must be well pleased.
Funky looking rock, beautiful place, hard climbing. Must have been a good day!
Nice one! And I wish him good luck on the next routes (though I'd be going bouldering for a bit after that I reckon!).
Jack
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Especially good to see after all the 'team America' hype of a few months back.
Especially good to see after all the 'team America' hype of a few months back.
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Blimey!! Effort
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: I was sure i posted earlier on this thread? anyway must be getting forgetful or something. Anyway amazing news. Was great to hear yesterday made a rather boring day being ill very exciting. To Graham D: I dont quite know why its especially good to see after all the team America hype i dont see why that has any influence on it. Did they even try it?
In reply to JoeL 90:
From what i heard i don't think they visited Widdop.
Don't hold me to that tho.
From what i heard i don't think they visited Widdop.
Don't hold me to that tho.
In reply to JoeL 90:
I think he meant something like 'Damned good to see our brave British boys showing those Yanks what's what, what what.'
I think he meant something like 'Damned good to see our brave British boys showing those Yanks what's what, what what.'
In reply to peewee2008: No i doubt they would i mean ive lived 35 minutes cycle from the place ever since i started climbing and even i woldn't visit it in November without a very good reason so having flown a third of the way round the world im guessing it wouldn't be too high on the list. I think they only visited Ilkley and Brimham in yorks?
In reply to AMo: My thoughts are that both the 'Team Amerca' thing and the stuff done by more local folk indicate that grit climbing has moved on a notch this winter.
In reply to JoeL 90:
Same here i live down the road from Thursden, A nice place to have as a local crag just round the corner.
Same here i live down the road from Thursden, A nice place to have as a local crag just round the corner.
In reply to peewee2008: I heard he had a little fall earlier in the day. was it onto the gear or lower down, or did you only see the final ascent?
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Awesome effort.
In reply to JoeL 90: He had 2 falls, less than 1m onto the top piece of gear in the bolthole just above the break, he went for a run to warm up then climbed it on the 3rd attempt.
Peter
Peter
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Cool. Now I wonder who's going to get the first repeat of Loaded.
jk
Cool. Now I wonder who's going to get the first repeat of Loaded.
jk
In reply to AMo: Exactly, the lion roars, even if he is South African, so is/was our cricket team's captain but he doesn't live in Burnley. Well done Jordan you are my hero, you must teach me that celebratory dance some time... magnificent!
In reply to Alastair Lee:
Was The Packhourse open? or did you find some other pub to celebrate?
Peter
Was The Packhourse open? or did you find some other pub to celebrate?
Peter
In reply to alessandro di guglielmo: Ah! I heard there was a listener... try here - https://www.posingproductions.com/product.php?form_action=detail&produc...
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Does Equilibrium get the french grade of 8b? What makes W.W E9 and Equilibrium E10?
James
Does Equilibrium get the french grade of 8b? What makes W.W E9 and Equilibrium E10?
James
In reply to james oswald:
Probably something to do with Widdop being in Yorkshire.
> (In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC)
> Does Equilibrium get the french grade of 8b? What makes W.W E9 and Equilibrium E10?
> James
> Does Equilibrium get the french grade of 8b? What makes W.W E9 and Equilibrium E10?
> James
Probably something to do with Widdop being in Yorkshire.
In reply to Calder:
Haha
Haha
In reply to james oswald: Equilibrium being F8b+, W.W. being F8b might have something to do with it...
Andy F
Andy F
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Full respect for Mr Buys for this, an absolutely tremendous effort. Hats off.
Full respect for Mr Buys for this, an absolutely tremendous effort. Hats off.
The long awaited Burnley reawakening !
Come on Burnley!
Come on Burnley!
In reply to GrahamD:
Quite right - British climbs for British climbers I say!
> Especially good to see after all the 'team America' hype of a few months back.
Quite right - British climbs for British climbers I say!
In reply to telemarker:
Is that humour you can apply like a cream?!
> (In reply to Nic)
>
> Haha, I like. Nothing like a bit of topical humour to brighten the evening.
>
> Haha, I like. Nothing like a bit of topical humour to brighten the evening.
Is that humour you can apply like a cream?!
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Would you hit the ground falling off the crux of Equilibrium?
The 2nd Gresham Masterclass DVD makes it seem like the crux is slightly earlier on.
James
Would you hit the ground falling off the crux of Equilibrium?
The 2nd Gresham Masterclass DVD makes it seem like the crux is slightly earlier on.
James
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: i watched thaught it was spectacular i have some pic but ill will wait for alister to give me the go ahead befor posting them
In reply to james oswald: go and try it,you planning an ascent?
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Wonderful stuff from Jordan.
Still gets beaten at Pool by girls though, we are all human.
Wonderful stuff from Jordan.
Still gets beaten at Pool by girls though, we are all human.
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Very well done Jordan (on your 8b ). This is maybe the most covetted recent repeat on Gritstone since Dawes sacked off Parthian.
Right then, about those Miles Gibson routes that noone ever tried...
Very well done Jordan (on your 8b ). This is maybe the most covetted recent repeat on Gritstone since Dawes sacked off Parthian.
Right then, about those Miles Gibson routes that noone ever tried...
In reply to Paz:
What makes this route E9 and Equilibrium E10?
Is it solely down to the extra french grade? Is the landing of W.W better?
James
What makes this route E9 and Equilibrium E10?
Is it solely down to the extra french grade? Is the landing of W.W better?
James
In reply to james oswald:
Grades are just rough estimates James. Don't get hung up about them.
Darn hard those two routes and can only be climbed by the best.
Mick
> (In reply to Paz)
> What makes this route E9 and Equilibrium E10?
> Is it solely down to the extra french grade? Is the landing of W.W better?
> James
> What makes this route E9 and Equilibrium E10?
> Is it solely down to the extra french grade? Is the landing of W.W better?
> James
Grades are just rough estimates James. Don't get hung up about them.
Darn hard those two routes and can only be climbed by the best.
Mick
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: excactly,people seem to think that grades are writin in stone.they think its all black and white as to what grades a route should be because of "x" amount of danger X "x" difficulty = a set grade.as we know it just doesnt work like that.grades are not science
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: In any event it is a scientifically proven fact that all hard grit routes are E9 7a.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
I understand how they work.
Merely interested in how the 2 routes can be distinguished from eachother.
James
I understand how they work.
Merely interested in how the 2 routes can be distinguished from eachother.
James
In reply to james oswald:
One is in Peakie land, the other in Yorkshire. Both are hard.
That's all you need to know.
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
> I understand how they work.
> Merely interested in how the 2 routes can be distinguished from eachother.
> James
> I understand how they work.
> Merely interested in how the 2 routes can be distinguished from eachother.
> James
One is in Peakie land, the other in Yorkshire. Both are hard.
That's all you need to know.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
And the Yanks didn't do either.
> (In reply to james oswald)
> [...]
>
> One is in Peakie land, the other in Yorkshire. Both are hard.
>
> That's all you need to know.
> [...]
>
> One is in Peakie land, the other in Yorkshire. Both are hard.
>
> That's all you need to know.
And the Yanks didn't do either.
I would just like to say Cheers for all the top comments on this thread. It was a tough yorkshire cookie. Glad this winter is being so productive for alot of people too.
In reply to craig d:
Yeah. What have they ever done on grit?
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
> [...]
>
> And the Yanks didn't do either.
> [...]
>
> And the Yanks didn't do either.
Yeah. What have they ever done on grit?
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: BMC buys Wilton, Jordan buys Widdop, what's going on? ;0D
Well done on completing the route. I was bouldering at Widdop around Xmas Eve and noticed a few cameras around. Be careful with your cars at Widdop reservoir car park though. Some joker stuck a "75% discount" sticker on the spoiler of my car a few weeks ago and it took the paint off when I removed it. hilarious.
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Are there any photos available of this?
Of all the cameras there I'm sure someone must be willing to share!
Are there any photos available of this?
Of all the cameras there I'm sure someone must be willing to share!
In reply to Calder:
So is Burbage.
> (In reply to james oswald)
> [...]
>
> Probably something to do with Widdop being in Yorkshire.
> [...]
>
> Probably something to do with Widdop being in Yorkshire.
So is Burbage.
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