UKC

Tom Ireson recounts his first experience of leading an 'E' graded climb on the gritstone classic of Long Tall Sally (E1).

Long Tall Sally is a popular choice for a first E1, being quite short and friendly, with an obvious line and seemingly good protection. How did Tom find it?

"Shit! My foot just slipped... Please not now... Don't fall now..."

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1758

In reply to UKC Articles: That was great! My hands were sweating while I was reading it - good job

In reply to UKC Articles: Good write-up! That was the day of my first lead at Burbage North - it wasn't Long Tall Sally though!

In reply to UKC Articles:
Nice article, a lot of emotions there! It's a great route and, as you say, that makes you first E lead all the more memorable. Seem to recall the start is the hardest bit but the top section is quite committing.

In reply to UKC Articles:

Such a good description of what climbing is really like for 'mere mortals' (like ourselves). I've screamed and shouted for joy at the top of some climbs too.

In reply to UKC Articles: Thanks so much for all your supportive comments, this is my first published article and it's really nice to see that people have enjoyed reading it!

In reply to UKC Articles: I was considering giving it a go as my first extreme. Not anymore. Too scary.

In reply to johnhowell:

a bit of left handed typing? eh john!
haha just kidding, i know what you meant.

nice job tom wicked account of the day, i think my account of seconding that route won't be so interesting!

In reply to twm.bwen:

I really dont think its a good first E1 either. I didn't find it easy seconding it (Ive seconded E6!) and the gear isn't incredible IMHO

I have definitely found a few better protected E1s that would be good to start on since then. I'm told you can get more gear in Long tall sally but I was far too scared at the time to figure it out.

Embankment 3 (first pitch) at Millstone is tricky climbing but very well protected, Billingsgate, also at Millstone has a slightly dangerous but easy start followed by a well protected and very enjoyable crux sequence, just take all your smallest gear for it.

In reply to Ben C:


I tried it as a first E1 and fell off.
Two of my three bits of gear popped (all little cams, what was I thinking?)

I agree it's not a good first E1!

In reply to UKC Articles:

Good article! It was my first E1 and your account brought it all flooding back, lots of similarities between our ascents, I think.

I actually had quite a similar article published on Dangerous Dave Law's Dangerous Site, but the site seems to have gone. Shame. Not sure I have a copy of the article now either, have to see if I can find it.

Nice write up. I've shared your experience topping out several times just as you describe!

I've no idea why LTS is so popular for a first extreme, it's pretty insecure all the way with tricky to place and not totally inspiring gear. Plenty of softer grit E1s out there for the author to do next.

In reply to UKC Articles: Nice write up; it makes a pleasant change to get sweaty palms while reading about something which may actually, one day, be achievable grade wise for us punters. Well done you.

I enjoyed Long Tall Sally when I led it - would put it quite high in the E1 rating, nearly E2, as it would give an aspirational HVS climber a bit of a shock. The key is to place the gear and then sprint to the top . . .

I would say a better first E1 is Debauchery on High Tor - a perfect step up from HVS with big holds and good gear.

In reply to UKC Articles:
Cheers for the article.
Being named Sally it'll have to go on the dream list

In reply to UKC Articles:

Its a good first E1 for gritstone as its very representive of the climbing style, feels bold but is totally safe provided you place the gear properly. Its a great route and far far better when its at the limit of your ability than when its a cruise. Sure there's easier stuff out there but in my opinion at first E1 should actually be representive of the grade rather than some soft touch, it was my first proper one and I enjoyed it, stands out far more than a few 'E1s' I'd done beforehand.

In reply to UKC Articles: As someone who fell from the top (after dithering) and landed at the bottom I can say it's a fun E1! Fortunately just a bruised heel and confidence.

In reply to UKC Articles: My first E1 did it today wicked