/ NEWS: Magic Line - 8c+ Trad by Hazel Findlay

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UKC News 26 Nov 2019

Hazel Findlay has repeated Ron Kauk's highly aesthetic Magic Line 8c+ (5.14c) 35m finger crack line at Vernal Falls in Yosemite National Park. After one month of sessions working the line, Hazel ticked her project on her last day before leaving the Valley. Hazel's ascent is only the second redpoint ascent after Ron's Son Lonnie Kauk made the first ascent placing gear on lead in November 2018. Ron's 1996 ascent was made using pre-placed gear, also known as a pinkpoint ascent.

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Duncan Campbell 26 Nov 2019
In reply to UKC News: Interesting the equation of 14c to 8c/+ I always thought 14b = 8c, 14c = 8c+, 14d = 9a. Is this more a comment on the route feeling somewhere between 8c and 8c+? 

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The Jazz Butcher 26 Nov 2019
In reply to UKC News:

That's awesome. Well done.

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Michael Gordon 26 Nov 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Absolutely superb. I'm guessing this must be the hardest crack climb done by a British woman?

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Wil Treasure 26 Nov 2019
In reply to Duncan Campbell:

I read it as suggesting it's either 14b or c hence the 8c/+. Given that only two people had previously done it it's hardly settled.

Anyway it's besides the point, either way it's one of the hardest crack climbs around. An amazing achievement. How many people have looked at this over the years and walked away?

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Duncan Campbell 26 Nov 2019
In reply to Wil Treasure: If you look at the history of the route (not a long read) it was first done By Ron Kauk with preplaced kit at 14b/8c and then repeated in this style by his son, Lonnie. Lonnie then made the first ascent placing the gear at 14c/8c+. Hazel’s is the second ascent in this style, and at least two footholds broke off whilst Maddy and Hazel tried it so it’s no doubt even more solid at the grate

The grade isn’t everything and no matter what alphanumerical you put next to it this is an amazing achievement but I do think it is worth being accurate as it isn’t difficult in this case, and seems a little weird when as far as I’ve seen no one has called it 8c/+.

British women are going from strength to strength at the moment!  

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hamwise 26 Nov 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Hazel Findlay speaking: Just to clarify. The grade given by the first red point ascentionist of this route (Lonnie Kauk) is 5.14c R which equals 8c+ and probably e10 (but UK grades don’t really make sense for this line). Not sure why UKC thinks it has the authority to downgrade a route only climbed by one person (now 2). I think the grade is accurate so unless a bunch of other people climb it and downgrade it - that’s the grade. I’d have told UKC this if they had emailed me prior to releasing all of this information about me. What has happened to climbing journalism?! 

Post edited at 19:14
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Ged Desforges 26 Nov 2019

I took the slash grade to mean 8c with pre placed gear, 8c+ placing gear on lead.

Nice one Hazel 

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I apologise for the confusion. I read the BMC's report which stated 8c/+ and since such an in-depth report was posted very soon following Hazel's instagram post - and given the fact that Hazel is a BMC Ambassador - I assumed that Hazel had been in touch with the BMC. I know Hazel receives a lot of attention and emails after ascents, so I didn't want to overwhelm her when the information was seemingly out there. There was no intention to deliberately downgrade the climb. 

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wbo2 26 Nov 2019
In reply to UKC News:amazing effort on an amazing looking route (from photos).  Well done

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DubyaJamesDubya 27 Nov 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Fantastic! Looks like the shoulder injury is being put behind her now.

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Luke Brooks 27 Nov 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Am I wrong in thinking this is the first British female 8c+? Quite a few 8cs and then Emma on big bang, but nothing in between?

The fact that it's trad and a crack make it all the more impressive. Good effort.

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UKB Shark 27 Nov 2019
In reply to Luke Brooks:

> Am I wrong in thinking this is the first British female 8c+? Quite a few 8cs and then Emma on big bang, but nothing in between?

Since Mind Control has been downgraded from 8c+ to 8c I think that’s correct

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SGD 28 Nov 2019
In reply to UKC News:

What a line and what an achievement. 

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SenzuBean 28 Nov 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Ever since seeing 'that' photo (which I can't find online atm) of Ron Kauk on Magic line in the John Long book, I've always admired it - excellent to see it getting climbed again.

Lonnie in the more or less similar place: http://www.alpinist.com/media/web19s/a66-magic-line-12.jpg

Look forward to hopefully seeing Hazel climbing it from a similar angle.

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Michael Gordon 28 Nov 2019
In reply to Duncan Campbell:

Does 8c/+ not just mean it could be either? Like E1/2.

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hamwise 29 Nov 2019

Thanks for changing it UKC

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