UKC

NEWS: Malc Smith climbs Unjustified 8c

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 Jack Geldard 03 Jun 2008
Malcolm Smith has shown a return to sport climbing recently with ascents of hard routes in Scotland in 2007. He has just climbed Unjustified 8c (Malham) and says:

"Unjustified was one of the routes in Yorkshire I wanted to clean up, having not climbed it back in the day...

...I like routes I can do quickly but if I want to climb a 9a in Yorkshire I'll need to get ready for a siege."

Read More: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=06&year=2008#n44629
 deacondeacon 03 Jun 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Can somebody tell me what a sica hold is please.
In reply to deacondeacon: sica is a kind of glue i believe which people often use to cement loose holds or holds which have fallen off routes which are crucial.

Cheers
Tim
 deacondeacon 03 Jun 2008
In reply to tbertenshaw: Cheers Tim, I thought it would be a glued hold.
 Michael Ryan 03 Jun 2008
In reply to deacondeacon:

I think it is sika rather than sica.

http://www.sika.com/
OP Jack Geldard 03 Jun 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Cheers Mick,

Now changed, you learn something everyday!

Jack
 Bill Davidson 03 Jun 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

It's hard to believe that Malc works full time as well, be interesting to see what he could do if he climbed full time like a lot of the others at that level.

Big well done Malc
 Michael Ryan 03 Jun 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com) Cheers Mick,
>
> Now changed, you learn something everyday!

I used to be a teacher of the dark art of sika!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Read 'Harry the Spotter and Pete Livesey's Stone' .. I have a cameo it.



 Chris F 03 Jun 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: not to be confused with pika, which are a bit harder to grip.
 Paz 03 Jun 2008
In reply to Chris F:

Chu?
 Bulls Crack 03 Jun 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

But it could be http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sica to make that onsight even harder
 Mick Ward 03 Jun 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
> (In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC)

> I used to be a teacher of the dark art of sika!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Err... Justified? Unjustified??

< coughs discreetly >

Mick
 Chris F 03 Jun 2008
In reply to Paz:
> (In reply to Chris F)
>
> Chu?

No thanks, prefer cigars.

(google pika)

Serpico 05 Jun 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Malc did Power Ranger on Tuesday. He reckons it's solid 8b+ now, and probably as hard as Unjustified.
In reply to Serpico:

Hurray! Although he probably did it in the baking heat. I'd agree it is similar in difficulty to Unjustified, much less sustained but with a significantly harder crux.
In reply to Serpico and midgets of the world unite:

ok then first obvious but stupid question.. which of the two routes grade needs adjusting then? unjustified is 8b+ or powerranger is 8c?
In reply to tbertenshaw:

I don't seeing any problem with two routes of similar difficulty being different grades, do you?
Power Ranger is not 8c.
 Adam Lincoln 05 Jun 2008
In reply to midgets of the world unite:
> (In reply to tbertenshaw)
>
> I don't seeing any problem with two routes of similar difficulty being different grades, do you?
> Power Ranger is not 8c.

Exactly, its what suits...

Power Ranger - Burlyish, cruxy.
Unjustified - More sustained, crimpy, endurance.

From my extensive knowledge on both routes. (Not!)
In reply to midgets of the world unite: no just serpico's description which was he said it was hard 8b+ and probably as hard as unjustified. Maybe the way i read it but i thought that sounded like he was saying they were the same grade rather than one is slightly harder than the other.


Cheers
Tim
Serpico 05 Jun 2008
In reply to tbertenshaw:
Aaargh! Don't make it my fault!
I'm probably misquoting Malcolm.
In reply to Serpico:

yes, yes it's all Serpico's fault. Now I just need to look through my phone book of unjustified ascentionists and tell them who's to blame....
Serpico 05 Jun 2008
In reply to midgets of the world unite:
That's a very slim phone book.
In reply to midgets of the world unite: how many people do you think that is roughly wont hold you to it.

Cheers
Tim
In reply to tbertenshaw:

Unjustified? I'm guessing Mitchell, Malc Smith, Steve Mac, Gaz Parry. God, is that it? Sellars with Sika, obviously.

Hopefully a few more scottish boys might make it this year....
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