Some of the top guys who have tried it like Sonnie Trotterand Ethan Pringle could not even do the first moves on the slab that Sharma said were about 7b+. Getting to the rail where the 'hard stuff' starts is meant to be utterly nails.
> (In reply to Jeff25)
> Think it went this long because it totally nails.
> Some of the top guys who have tried it like Sonnie Trotterand Ethan Pringle could not even do the first moves on the slab that Sharma said were about 7b+.
Pringle found an easier way than Sharma for the move onto the rail. The slab was supposedly v9/10 from what people have said.
In reply to UKC News: Its amazing how the grade of the slab inflates!! Talking to locals there this summer, it was suppose to be V11! Also I think it was paul robinson (correct me someone) who was there last summer and could do the whole crack system, but couldnt do the starting slab!
As I heard it, Ethan Pringle and Sonnie Trotter had very opposing views - Sonnie could do the slab "no problem" (slight exaggeration maybe!) but found the pin scars at the end desperate, whereas Ethan could do everything apart from the slab.
> (In reply to andyinglis)
> As I heard it, Ethan Pringle and Sonnie Trotter had very opposing views - Sonnie could do the slab "no problem" (slight exaggeration maybe!) but found the pin scars at the end desperate, whereas Ethan could do everything apart from the slab.
I love routes like this that (as Sean said on his blog) have really different redpoint cruxs depending on your climbing strengths.
That footage of Sharma's first ascent of Dreamcatcher is amongst the best shot and directed bits of climbing film I have ever seen.
And I have seen everything. Such an amazing line. Excellent choice of music and slick editing. An inspiring bit of footage. Hat off to the editor director. Not a bad bit climbing either. Looks sick hard, very hard to get an idea of the geometry of the route, its wierd, sometimes it looks steeper than others.
I thought the same thing when I first saw Dreamcatcher. There would be really good gear for the second half of the route and at the crux. But the first half is still really hard and unprotectable. The problem is that you would have to use the bolts to work it, so then what is the point in skipping them on the redpoint to place gear? But yes E13 7b seems about right.
it's definitely a strangely angled area.. stood on the platform that is surrounded by dreamcatcher and other impressive routes is an amazing experience.. more beautiful than any cathedral or building to me.
great also that the second ascent was made by a local guy.. sean was trained at, and regularly climbs at, my local north vancouver climbing gym.
In reply to gallam1:
Does it? Stevie's route was a monster stamina link-up, while Dreamcatcher appears to have repelled some of the most talented boulderers around. Both very impressive, but chalk and cheese really.
> So, what odd on Dave MacLeod highballing the first section above mats then using a few wire and small flexis for the crack? E13?
Jeez ... fanciful UKC trad-BS at its worst. Sonnie Trotter, who made the second ascent of Rhapsody (and thus presumably approximates to someone of DM's capability), has made a career out of tradding sport routes and actually lives in Squamish. Yet he is still trying Dreamcatcher as a sport route. It seems very likely he would have considered it trad if that were even vaguely plausible.