UKC

NEWS: McColl Bags 2nd Ascent of Dreamcatcher 9a

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 UKC News 25 Sep 2009
[Dreamcatcher, 4 kb]Canadian Sean McColl has redpointed the second ascent of one of Canada's hardest rock climbs: Dreamcatcher (9a), established in 2005 by Chris Sharma.

The sport route on a huge boulder in Squamish, British Columbia, has so far resisted the efforts of great climbers like Sonnie Trotter and Paul Robinson.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=49457

 Jeff25 25 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News:

I must have watched the uptube video of Sharmas ascent at least a dozen times. Such a beautiful line and full of amazing moves.

Didn't know it had gone this long before having a second ascent. Welldone Sean McColl.
 catt 25 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Wow, first time I've seen that clip. What a line, that's an inspiring sport route. Good effort Mr. McColl.
In reply to Jeff25:

Think it went this long because it totally nails.

Some of the top guys who have tried it like Sonnie Trotterand Ethan Pringle could not even do the first moves on the slab that Sharma said were about 7b+. Getting to the rail where the 'hard stuff' starts is meant to be utterly nails.
 Iain McKenzie 25 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News: very good.
In reply to snoop6060:
> (In reply to Jeff25)
>
> Think it went this long because it totally nails.
>
> Some of the top guys who have tried it like Sonnie Trotterand Ethan Pringle could not even do the first moves on the slab that Sharma said were about 7b+.

Pringle found an easier way than Sharma for the move onto the rail. The slab was supposedly v9/10 from what people have said.

 Silum 25 Sep 2009
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
> (In reply to snoop6060)
> [...]
>
> Pringle found an easier way than Sharma for the move onto the rail. The slab was supposedly v9/10 from what people have said.

Funny, i never thought sharma would make a good slab climber, ooops.
 andyinglis 25 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News: Its amazing how the grade of the slab inflates!! Talking to locals there this summer, it was suppose to be V11! Also I think it was paul robinson (correct me someone) who was there last summer and could do the whole crack system, but couldnt do the starting slab!
 andyinglis 25 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News: Woops better make that ethan pringle!
 gabriel_m 25 Sep 2009
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
Are you actually suggesting that all of Sharma's routes do not require at least half a dozen dynamic moves?
 chris_j_s 25 Sep 2009
In reply to andyinglis:

As I heard it, Ethan Pringle and Sonnie Trotter had very opposing views - Sonnie could do the slab "no problem" (slight exaggeration maybe!) but found the pin scars at the end desperate, whereas Ethan could do everything apart from the slab.
 Jeff25 25 Sep 2009
In reply to chris_j_s:
> (In reply to andyinglis)
>
> As I heard it, Ethan Pringle and Sonnie Trotter had very opposing views - Sonnie could do the slab "no problem" (slight exaggeration maybe!) but found the pin scars at the end desperate, whereas Ethan could do everything apart from the slab.


I love routes like this that (as Sean said on his blog) have really different redpoint cruxs depending on your climbing strengths.

Amazing line... just wish it was 8a not 9!
 jazzyjackson 25 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News:

That footage of Sharma's first ascent of Dreamcatcher is amongst the best shot and directed bits of climbing film I have ever seen.
And I have seen everything. Such an amazing line. Excellent choice of music and slick editing. An inspiring bit of footage. Hat off to the editor director. Not a bad bit climbing either. Looks sick hard, very hard to get an idea of the geometry of the route, its wierd, sometimes it looks steeper than others.



In reply to UKC News:

So, what odd on Dave MacLeod highballing the first section above mats then using a few wire and small flexis for the crack? E13?
TimS 25 Sep 2009
In reply to Bulls Crack: 1 in 13,983,817?

Great effort, look forward to hearing news of a couple more repeats now the season is in.
 gallam1 25 Sep 2009
It does slightly put into context what S. Haston just did in France. I wonder if he's planning a trip to Canada while he's still skinny.
domk 25 Sep 2009
In reply to Bulls Crack:

I thought the same thing when I first saw Dreamcatcher. There would be really good gear for the second half of the route and at the crux. But the first half is still really hard and unprotectable. The problem is that you would have to use the bolts to work it, so then what is the point in skipping them on the redpoint to place gear? But yes E13 7b seems about right.
 gallam1 25 Sep 2009
And another thing....does this route "avoid the main challenge" of the slab by sneaking off rightwards?
 supafly 25 Sep 2009
In reply to jazzyjackson:

it's definitely a strangely angled area.. stood on the platform that is surrounded by dreamcatcher and other impressive routes is an amazing experience.. more beautiful than any cathedral or building to me.

great also that the second ascent was made by a local guy.. sean was trained at, and regularly climbs at, my local north vancouver climbing gym.

impressive send sean.
 gabriel_m 25 Sep 2009
In reply to gallam1:
Does it? Stevie's route was a monster stamina link-up, while Dreamcatcher appears to have repelled some of the most talented boulderers around. Both very impressive, but chalk and cheese really.
 tobyfk 28 Sep 2009
In reply to Bulls Crack:

> So, what odd on Dave MacLeod highballing the first section above mats then using a few wire and small flexis for the crack? E13?

Jeez ... fanciful UKC trad-BS at its worst. Sonnie Trotter, who made the second ascent of Rhapsody (and thus presumably approximates to someone of DM's capability), has made a career out of tradding sport routes and actually lives in Squamish. Yet he is still trying Dreamcatcher as a sport route. It seems very likely he would have considered it trad if that were even vaguely plausible.
 TonyG 09 Oct 2009
In reply to tobyfk:
Yes, but this one's even better - "E137b seems about right"

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...