/ THE LOWDOWN: Midtbø climbs 9b

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Björn Pohl - UKC 30 Aug 2010
Magnus is the one to the right, 3 kbAfter three weeks in the Ali Baba cave at Rodellar, success came for Magnus Midtbø in the form of Ali Hulk extension sit start, Dani Andrada's 85 move upside down wrestling match of a 9b.
The route can be divided into two parts. The first is 8c+ or 9a in it's own right and takes you to a knee-bar....

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=57559
banned profile 7430 Aug 2010
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC: is this really the shape of things to come-sit down starts to routes??
@ndyM@rsh@ll 30 Aug 2010
In reply to beastofackworth: Why not, a large part of the first section of the route can be reached from the ground, a sit start is a lot less arbitrary than any other one in this case.
Michael Gordon 30 Aug 2010
In reply to beastofackworth:

does sound like a bit of a joke!
Alun 30 Aug 2010
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:
The UKC community can be so depressing sometimes. Harmless scandinavian strong guy travels across Europe with the goal of ticking one of the world's hardest climbing testpieces, ticks it in reasonably short time, and two of the three comments so far are critical.

At least one of you is no stranger to reasonably hard climbing, and the concept of setting a goal and working a project. So why the criticism? I'll concede that the Ali Hulk cave is not the most inspiring of venues, and I shan't be rushing back there, but is it really worth wasting your time knocking somebody elses achievement? Come to think of it, is it really worth my time flaming you?! Probably not, but I'll click Submit anyway... :S
banned profile 7430 Aug 2010
In reply to Alun: im no stranger to hard climbing or having projects but having sit starts to routes is just farcical,it may aswell be classed as a highball boulder problem which in itself is becoming farcical these days(the knock thread case in point).
banned profile 7430 Aug 2010
In reply to @ndyM@rsh@ll:
> (In reply to beastofackworth) Why not, a large part of the first section of the route can be reached from the ground, a sit start is a lot less arbitrary than any other one in this case.

fair enough but could i upgrade chimes at ravens tor by climbing keen roof into chimes?i could but it would be pointless and not in the spirit of routing just like ali hulk extension sitstart or whatever its called
Steve13 30 Aug 2010
In reply to beastofackworth:

Wasn't the very start supposed to be a boulder problem anyway that got extended by andrada along the roof? And the whole Ali-Hulk Extn. just evolved from linking more and more of the cave and then out and over the lip?

Anyway awesome effort from Magnus, did he give his opinion on the grade?
banned profile 7430 Aug 2010
In reply to Steve13: its about a v12/13 endurence boulder problem into an 8c+ route,pretty much
banned profile 7430 Aug 2010
In reply to Steve13: and im not doubting the skill or ability needed to climb it,i know i wouldnt be anywhere near up to the challenge but imho its still a bit contrived
Lemony 30 Aug 2010
In reply to beastofackworth: It doesn't claim to be the most aesthetic piece of climbing in the world, it claims to be properly bastard hard. Can't really see what's wrong with that nor why you feel the need to whinge about it.
ali k 30 Aug 2010
In reply to Alun:

hear hear. thankfully, i'm pretty sure he doesn't give a rat's ass about what some Internet pundits think of his achievement because

a) he's just spent 3 weeks in Rodellar
b) he's ticked a 9b
c) his girlfriend is gorgeous
scooott 30 Aug 2010
Invalid ascent then because we don't feel the line is aesthetically pleasing?

Tbh it's an obvious link, right through a cave then finishing up the wall above it. Don't know why anyone would feel the need for negative comments really... lol.
banned profile 7430 Aug 2010
In reply to scooott:
> Invalid ascent then because we don't feel the line is aesthetically pleasing?


never mentioned aesthetics,i was talking about sit down starts to routes being contrived
@ndyM@rsh@ll 30 Aug 2010
In reply to beastofackworth: I don't think he cares about the "spirit of routing" to be honest, he gave it a sport-route grade as that's what best describes the difficulty involved, it makes more sense to give something that long 9b than 8C+/V16 so he did.
La benya 30 Aug 2010
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

this guy has only done one 9a, 9a+ and 9b... all of which are the same line, just strting from different positions... on his blog he claims this as the second confirmed 9b, but is he in a position to confirm? ondra is, andrada is, sharma is... is someone that has just broken into these grades?

not sure

Humbert30 Aug 2010
In reply to mark_wellin:

According to his 8a scorecard he did three other 9a and one other 9a+.
Guess you looked past 12 moth only!?
Tam Stone30 Aug 2010
In reply to beastofackworth:
> "(In reply to Alun) im no stranger to hard climbing"

Aye you are. You climb around the same grade as me and I am a stranger to hard climbing. Get a hold of your ego.

SARS 30 Aug 2010
In reply to Tam Stone:
> (In reply to beastofackworth)
> [...]
>
> Aye you are. You climb around the same grade as me

you have climbed font 7c then?
@ndyM@rsh@ll 30 Aug 2010
In reply to SARS: Regardless of whether he does or doesn't, 7C isn't hard. Hard for me, not hard though really.
SARS 30 Aug 2010
In reply to @ndyM@rsh@ll:

maybe not world class but its a solid grade.
RupertD 30 Aug 2010
In reply to beastofackworth:

This is a small cave with a lip above bouldering height. I can't see why climbing the whole roof from the back is more contrived than bouldering half way and dropping off, or pulling on half way and climbing to the top. It's not like it's a 40m route with a couple of sit start moves tacked on.
La benya 30 Aug 2010
In reply to Humbert:

ah ha! fair enough then.

makes more sense.

i should have checked, but its just my prejudice against the route then. i dont like the way it looks, doesnt feel like a route. no idea how hard it is.
banned profile 7430 Aug 2010
In reply to @ndyM@rsh@ll:
> (In reply to SARS) Regardless of whether he does or doesn't, 7C isn't hard. Hard for me, not hard though really.


rubbish,even top climbers will tell you 7c is hard
@ndyM@rsh@ll 30 Aug 2010
In reply to beastofackworth: Hard as the crux for a route maybe, i know too many people (good climbers all don't get me wrong, but none anywhere near world class) climbing Font 7C for it to really count as hard.
skullgrid30 Aug 2010
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:
Great effort, i wonder if he'll try the other harder sit-start as well.

For some context, according to this blog post Andrada himself does not see this route as
"the shape of things to come": http://www.bigupproductions.com/#/blog/399/

"While they are both major accomplishments and unquestionably hard, they seem to be regarded by the community of elite climbers, including Fred and Dani themselves, more as interesting experiments in a very specific direction of difficulty rather than as shining examples of a major step forward."
Tam Stone30 Aug 2010
In reply to beastofackworth: No, best Ive done is 7b+ sport climb. What a baw heed you are though to come on dissing a 9b climber with your pishy 7C. Your shaving mirror must be massive.
banned profile 7430 Aug 2010
In reply to @ndyM@rsh@ll: i know plenty of font 8b climbers who still say 7c is hard so ner
banned profile 7430 Aug 2010
In reply to Tam Stone:
> (In reply to beastofackworth) No, best Ive done is 7b+ sport climb. What a baw heed you are though to come on dissing a 9b climber with your pishy 7C. Your shaving mirror must be massive.

what you gibbering at now ya plank?i wasnt dissing him i was dissing the contrived nature of the climb.if you dont like me comment you know exactly what you can do with them
Adam Lincoln 30 Aug 2010
In reply to ali k:
> (In reply to Alun)
>
> hear hear. thankfully, i'm pretty sure he doesn't give a rat's ass about what some Internet pundits think of his achievement because
>
> a) he's just spent 3 weeks in Rodellar
> b) he's ticked a 9b
> c) his girlfriend is gorgeous

Yes but there is always an armchair critic out there moaning about something. Always was, always will be. If we ignore them they might go away.

@ndyM@rsh@ll 30 Aug 2010
In reply to beastofackworth: They can say it's hard if they want but it's not borne out by the number of poeple climbing it, i know a font 8B climber who once said to me that V5 is hard, it doesn't mean it is.
@ndyM@rsh@ll 30 Aug 2010
In reply to beastofackworth: Maybe i'm just being too british and understated, when i say hard i mean bloody nails as i don't go in for hyperbole.
banned profile 7430 Aug 2010
In reply to @ndyM@rsh@ll: im looking at an average climber,to an average climber v5 is nails!!theres way more climbers below v5 than there is above v5
ali k 30 Aug 2010
In reply to beastofackworth & @ndyM@rsh@ll:

Is this the most pointless discussion in the history of UKC?....and considering the amount of worthless drivel spouted on some of the forums on here, that's some record.
Alun 31 Aug 2010
In reply to ali k:
> Is this the most pointless discussion in the history of UKC?

I don't know, you at least made one point that nobody else dared to - he has got a gorgeous girlfriend...!
kpj2407801 Sep 2010
In reply to Alun: She is also 17...
Morgan Woods 01 Sep 2010
In reply to kpj24078: So it's ok for a 22 yr old to be her boyfriend but nobody else can comment if she looks nice.
kpj2407801 Sep 2010
In reply to Morgan Woods: My comment was really in response to the fact that he's 22, not the people who say she looks nice. I just clicked reply to the last comment
Morgan Woods 01 Sep 2010
In reply to kpj24078: I see, maybe you could add "won't somebody think of the children" for emphasis :p

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