SKILLS: Montane Alpine Preparation - Speed and Efficiency at Belays

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 UKC Articles 05 Jul 2021

In this video, Rebecca Coles explains how to increase efficiency at belay stances. Speed is crucial when alpine climbing and making simple processes as time efficient as possible is vitally important and often overlooked.

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 C Witter 05 Jul 2021
In reply to UKC Articles:

That was... truly Alpine: stripped back, ultralight, minimalist instruction!

 Andy Hardy 05 Jul 2021
In reply to C Witter:

Couldnt have been much quicker, but it didn't cover rope management (what if you're using 2 ropes) or leading in blocks rather than swapping leads etc

Not a great ratio of info to advert time.

 C Witter 06 Jul 2021
In reply to Andy Hardy:

Now, now. There was a demonstration of how to tie an overhand and how to look at your phone. There was also some suitably earnest music. Credit where it's due.

In reply to C Witter: wow, I thought this is what you do at just about every belay where you swing leads… I mean call me crazy, but bringing someone up on an autolocking plate so you can eat and drink whilst at the belay is kind of normal, especially when you are using a plate made for the job like she is!

 olddirtydoggy 06 Jul 2021
In reply to UKC Articles:

Why wasn't the brew ready on the Jetboil for when the second arrives?

So unrealistically simple, might as well have been at home. Single rope as mentioned, no wires restored to their rightful place and masses of space. How about a small ledge and a load of rope to manage in a tight space

In reply to Dave Wills:

Yeah. That was pants. Didn't reorientate the belay device for leading through, wonder if they had any upwards pull anchors etc. 

Far quicker to lead 2 or 3 pitches in a row, than changing leads and racks every pitch. 

Not sure you need to get a phone out. An alpine description might be a whole paragraph for 10 pitches, it's not like the UK with detailed blurb for every 30m. 


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