Forty years ago this month, Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker died on Everest. Written by Boardman, with additions from Tasker, this gripping account of the pair's celebrated first ascent of Changabang's fearsome West Wall captures the utter commitment of cutting edge 1970s Himalayan climbing. After many failed attempts, their route was only repeated in May 2022.
I remember reading early on in my climbing when Himalayan big wall climbing was a totally abstract concept. Even more impressive on re-reading with some knowledge, and incredible that it waited so long for a repeat.
Thank you for reminding me of Boardman, Tasker and this book; modern day gladiators that wrote with simple but brutal honesty, this book along with Savage Arena are two of the greatest books on mountaineering I have read; although I read these books probably more than 30 years ago I still recall the writing of the descent off Changabang and a bivvy on Dunagiri (Tasker with Renshaw in Savage Arena), quite simply extraordinary achievements climbed with immense stoicism. S
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In Focus Marmot Photography Awards 2021
Fri Night Vid Rakchham: Bridge Between Worlds
Bernd Zangerl and the village of Rakchham have been working together over the last decade to develop a sustainable world-class climbing area in Rakchham, Himalaya. Last autumn Bernd took Melissa Le Nevé and Giuliano Cameroni on his trip there. They...