Ned Feehally has made the first ascent of a direct finish to Renegade Master at Froggatt, naming it Ill Behaviour. The climb starts as for Renegade Master, but instead of venturing right via positive crimps, it heads directly upwards on tiny sloping edges and a huge dyno to the lip.
In reply to UKC News: What's the deal with Renegade Master, is it actually the case that the way people finish now is different to the FA or was that a bit of a misrepresentation? If not, has the original way been repeated?
Regarding the new line, it certainly sounds a significant last great problem. Good effort!
> What's the deal with Renegade Master, is it actually the case that the way people finish now is different to the FA or was that a bit of a misrepresentation? If not, has the original way been repeated?
> Regarding the new line, it certainly sounds a significant last great problem. Good effort!
I was wondering this last night. When Neil Bentley did the second ascent on Hard Grit, he topped out just around the arete. Over the years this top out migrated rightwards and it is now common to shuffle right onto the shelf before contemplating a top out. This is definitely not where the original line went, but if you are topping out round the corner it's a bit artificial to stay off the ledge.
I remember writing about where the original went in a column I wrote for Climb Magazine in the 2000s, but I can't find a copy of my article on my computer. From memory I think I said in the article that Jerry originally topped out direct up the crack on the first ascent. However, I think I said this in the context of describing Rich Simpson's ascent, and I may have been told this by Rich himself, which in hindsight may raise question marks over the reliability of what I was told. I may also be misremembering. It would be interesting if someone from UKClimbing (Rob?) could ask Jerry where his original route went.
I spoke to Jerry yesterday about this actually. His recollection is that he went directly up the crack, past a pre-placed wire. I think this meant he grabbed the arete with his right hand, instead of rocking around. There's only photos of him low down on it, presumably taken after his ascent. I'll try and get a bit more clarification, but I wouldn't hold your breath.
In reply to UKC News: I have a copy of climbing the US magazine dated August/ September 1995 which reports the first ascent which says the crux involves pulling up the crack, above the line swings right round the prow to finish with a nasty sloping mantle.
The report was written by Steve Lewis
I may have done the 3rd ascent? back in 2000 and copied Neil's roped sequence exactly and was instantly convinced that it was far to easy 7c+? Sport not 8a+ as Jerry claimed. He must have got his blinkers on or just wanted to make it direct/hard. As for moving further right that was not considered necessary once the gear was clipped because you felt safe at that point.
There are plenty of examples of a headpointed lines not making so much sense when climbed ground-up, where you tend to naturally follow the line of least resistance. As kris says the gear was pre-placed (think I've seen a photo showing this?) meaning on the headpoint you have gear above your head at that point whereas on the ground-up things are just getting serious.
I remember reading your article and being non plussed as the good crimp you get with your right you have when you are directly below the crack. So I did wonder whether Jerry was really saying he climbed the crack.
Anyway, I also did it as per Bentley in HG with the crux being locking to the lip and then matching. Rocking out onto the ledge on the right, then mantling further right is easier and less committing I suspect.
Looking forward to seeing the footage of Ned. I looked at the direct in 2001 and couldn't really see how it would go as the lip was so slopey.