UKC

NEWS: New 8C+ for Shawn Raboutou

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 UKC News 28 Nov 2018
Shawn Raboutou on the low start to Off the WagonShawn Raboutou has climbed the low-start to Nalle Hukkataival's Off the Wagon (8B+) in Val Bavona, Switzerland. It is suggested this could be the first Font 8C+ in Switzerland, after Dave Graham's problem The Story of Two Worlds has settled at 8C. The problem was made famous by Chris Sharma and Dave Graham's attempts in the films Dosage 3 & 4. Hukkataival eventually climbed the stand start to the problem in 2012.

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 simes303 28 Nov 2018
In reply to UKC News:

Not just a down climb of Karma in the Mellow Times video, he climbs straight back up it again and makes it look easy. Very impressive. Starts at 8:10.

Post edited at 14:55
 plyometrics 28 Nov 2018
In reply to simes303:

> Not just a down climb of Karma in the Mellow Times video, he climbs straight back up it again and makes it look easy. Very impressive. Starts at 8:10.

It’s obscene. 

In reply to UKC News:

Related to Didier?

In reply to Michael Hood:

Don of Didier and Robyn Erbesfield.

In reply to Graeme Alderson:

> Don of Didier and Robyn Erbesfield.

If you are cranking 8C+ you definitely get the title 'Don of...'.

Post edited at 15:51
 stp 28 Nov 2018
In reply to simes303:

Yeah he looks super strong. His Dad, Didier, was extremely strong too. One of his great quotes was there's no such thing as a reach problem, only a strength problem. Shawn looks really strong too but can also climb very dynamically. Didier was a very static climber, well suited to the pocket pulling style of Buoux back in the day.

 owensum 28 Nov 2018
In reply to UKC News:

Does that mean they can get rid of the wagon now?

In reply to Shani:

Whoops! Freudian perhaps?

In reply to Graeme Alderson:

I'd presumed it was his son, had forgotten that mum was RE. Should have high probability of very good climbing genetics.

In reply to UKC News:

So French - they brought a table with them

 DaveFidler 01 Dec 2018
In reply to UKC News: Wasn’t Dai Koyamada’s low start to Story of Two Worlds meant to be 8C+? Haven’t heard of anyone else trying it, but doesn’t mean it’s not 8C+ if SoTW is meant to be tricky for 8C....

 samwillo 01 Dec 2018
In reply to DaveFidler:

I think Story of Two World's is settling at soft 8C. I think the low start has been repeated by Christof Rauch and Sebastian Cotting (Sebastian proposed 8B+ with new kneebar and heel-toe beta for the low start)

 DaveFidler 01 Dec 2018
In reply to samwillo:

Good knowledge. Just watched the beta comparison vid. Sebastian does seem to piss it rather...


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