/ NEWS: New free line on El Capitan for Caldwell and Honnold
Sounds like it may well settle at 14a considering what Tommy said about the crux pitch and the calibre of the team involved in FA. Which if I'm not mistaken would tie it with Magic Mushroom for 2nd hardest free route up El Cap? Not bad for a 3 week job!
Surprised I'd not heard about Leo Houlding bolting on an Alfa Romeo badge as a hold before.
There's a bit more about that in the American Alpine Journal here: https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=Tt0-o0IQopkC&pg=PA172&lpg=PA172&dq=leo+houlding+alfa+romeo&source=bl&ots=GWWcshy-qj&sig=ACfU3U0-3pyp-yc12ozpI03xfgc8hg0MxA&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwif4oSj_drlAhWUiVwKHcfuAk84ChDoATAAegQICRAB#v=onepage&q=leo%20houlding%20alfa%20romeo&f=false
I would love to hear the back-story of the Alfa Romeo badge..
So they did an existing (hard) route, then added 20 pitches. Twenty. Still find it hard to get my head round that sort of thing.
It was a while ago. I remember a BMC conference where Leo gave a talk with photos of the Alfa badge.
Did he provide any reasoning to the madness? He just happened to have an alfa romeo badge on him halfway up el cap?
t was a long time ago, but given the build quality of Alfa Romeos I think we can assume that the badge fell off. The only other detail that I remember is that the badge spins when a climber grabs it.
My memory's a bit hazy but I remember reading an article about it at the time. I believe the badge was added to the route to fill a blank section after considerable soul searching. The car in question was at one point owned by Neil gresham and had been faithful to Neil and Leo in many an adventure. I think it even makes an appearance in one of those masterclass videos. Apologies if I've got this all wrong. 🙂
"Aspirational holds" love it....
In this week's Friday Night Video Marcus Garcia travels from his home in southwest Colorado's San Juan Mountains to the limestone cliffs and spires of El Potrero Chico in northern Mexico to revisit his mentor's final climb. In an emotional and powerful act of closure, he...