In reply to Nick Brown - UKC:
> Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for the comments.
> Next week's episode is on fingerboarding - if you've got any questions for Neil, Maddy or Louis feel free to get in touch and we'll get them answered on the show.
Hi Nick
I have a question that I think would be interesting (hopefully!).
I have always thought that fingerboarding was discouraged until you reach a certain grade. In my head this was maybe around V5/6, though I’m not sure where I got this from. I have personally got to V5 ish with just climbing a lot - and no fingerboarding whatsoever, though to progress above this I would need to work on my sloper strength for example.
Is this view generally still held? It was definitely the prevailing view at my local wall maybe 4 or 5 years ago. Obviously because we can’t actually climb inside atm it’s not possible to progress in this way, but I think the general message was that with fingerboarding you’re more likely to injure yourself/ it doesn’t really benefit you that much if you can’t climb at a certain grade.
I don’t actually have any sources to quote - just general hearsay and chat! Would be good to know whether this is actually right or not!
Post edited at 13:25