UKC

NEWS: New Thing At Raven Tor by Steve McClure: 9a+? Maybe.

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 Michael Ryan 03 Nov 2008
Steve McClure writes,

"Considering the height of the route and the reduction in gravity, as well as the loss of a crucial hold meaning there may be fewer moves, the grade comes down to a lofty F8c. However, the grade is also dependant on sponsorship requirement levels and thus varies from F8b to F9a+. I should also point out that there was a bouldering pad somewhere nearby."

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=11&year=2008#n45417
 remus Global Crag Moderator 03 Nov 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Good to see the man has a sense of humour to accompany his climbing ability.
 UKB Shark 03 Nov 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: I should also point out that there was a bouldering pad somewhere nearby.


That was my bouldering mat. Furthermore it was folded in half and so double the thickness - something that Mr McClure fails to incorporate in his grade. Call yourself a professional climber ? Full disclosure from now on.

Waste of my BMC membership money if you ask me. And spare our feelings by not making it look so easy next time.
 Fraser 03 Nov 2008
In reply to remtherockclimber:

Couldn't agree more - what an excellent write-up!
 Chris F 03 Nov 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Another chance to call a route Stevolution, and he doesn't go for it. An opportunuity missed.
 beardy mike 03 Nov 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: "To be precise it would be E4 F8c V10 font 7c+ T / S P0."

Or Scottish VS. Heady stuff.
 Liam Copley 03 Nov 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: steve is so cool
 abarro81 03 Nov 2008
In reply to Simon Lee:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com) I should also point out that there was a bouldering pad somewhere nearby.
>
>
> That was my bouldering mat. Furthermore it was folded in half and so double the thickness - something that Mr McClure fails to incorporate in his grade.

Indeed, and it wasn't just one, there must have been 7 or 8 pads near the base of the route - probably doesn't deserve a route grade at all really. Extended boulder problem more like, bet he just tied the rope on so he could claim the E grade.

> And spare our feelings by not making it look so easy next time.

It did look disturbingly easy...

In reply to abarro81:
> (In reply to Simon Lee)
> [...]
>
> It did look disturbingly easy...

Is he talented or sommink? Why didn't Jerry go any higher when he set the route? Scared of heights?
 GrahamD 03 Nov 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Dissapointing to see a top climber being so flippant about grades. Doesn't he realise how seriously we take them here ?








, of course.
 Silum 03 Nov 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: haha brilliant
 Kyuzo 03 Nov 2008
Heheh, good stuff.
 pottsworth 03 Nov 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
What a legend!
Can't wait to see his warwick lecture next week!
 James Moyle 03 Nov 2008
In reply to Liam Copley:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com) steve is so cool

His coolness does in fact increase the grade.

Removed User 03 Nov 2008
In reply to James Moyle: Idiot. Only V grades take into account the coolness of the ascender...
 HeMa 03 Nov 2008
In reply to Removed User:

So it's only V9, but since Steve's so cool, it bumped that part of the grade to V10...
 220bpm 03 Nov 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Lol, the legend strikes again.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Very funny.....and very well done.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: A first, I think: the Credit Crunch grade!
 telemarker 03 Nov 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

genius.

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