UKC

Austrian mountaineering legend Peter Habeler recently climbed the North face of the Eiger via the Heckmair Route once again, at the ripe old age of 74. He was partnered by 26 year old Austrian climber David Lama, who was climbing the North Face for the first time. In 1978, Peter made the first ascent of Everest without use of supplementary oxygen alongside Reinhold Messner.Read more

In reply to UKC News:

Wow!

In reply to UKC News:

He doesn't even look tired. Utter beast.

In reply to UKC News:

What a legend.

In reply to Tom Briggs:


I once got a postcard from him

In reply to UKC News:

I remember walking past his ski school office one summer morning and he was just sat at a desk reading a newspaper and drinking coffee. Without thinking, like an overawed teen I raised a hand, like the legend he is raised one back in acknowledgement. Top Man.

In reply to UKC News:

[do not read further if you are offended of tired old UKC cliches]

Yeah, but what's he done on grit?

In reply to Olaf Prot:


I belayed next to him once on Widdop Ordinary. I think it was him.

In reply to Steve Ashton:


You'd know if it was him because he wouldn't be wearing an oxygen mask.

In reply to UKC News:

I thought Sir Chris climbing the Old man of Hoy at 80 was impressive but the Eiger North Face at 74 is gobsmacking.

In reply to jon:


That might be Messner...

In reply to UKC News:

We're doing an interview with Peter next week - what would you like me to ask him? Open to user questions!

In reply to UKC News: ".....David Lama, who was climbing the North Face for the first time."
Am I more confused than usual? Does Paciencia not count?

In reply to Co1in H:

Edited to 'The Heckmair Route for the first time'. Apologies, thanks for pointing it out!

In reply to Co1in H:

Not as a full 'North Face of the Eiger' tick, no.

In reply to Co1in H:

No, it would be like climbing Titan's Wall and claiming you'd climbed the North Face of Ben Nev`is like if you'd done Orion Direct.

In reply to Natalie Berry - UKC:

Hi Natalie, given that he's a decade older than me (and that's the decade in which so many lose athleticism) and he's obviously in good (great?) shape, I'd be interested in stuff like the following:

Was the Eiger a one-off or is he doing comparable Alpinism regularly?

How's he going on rock - improvement, decline, holding his own?

How often does he climb/train?

Does he still see/climb with Messner? It would be nice to think they're on good terms.


I remember a mate, Jim Patterson, telling me circa 1970 that he'd met Peter Habeler, ski-touring, I think. Although Jim wasn't a climber, back then he was on his way to becoming a superb fell runner. And he revered physical fitness. He was mega-impressed by Habeler both in terms of fitness and being a brilliant person. Typically we'd never heard of him - we were to learn!

It's great that he's still out there doing it. Long may he continue.

Mick

In reply to Natalie Berry - UKC:


Hi Natalie,

Peter has always struck me as a great role model for climbing and his fitness speaks for itself. I wonder if you could ask him about his training - what he did at his peak and what he does now, diet etc.

I remember reading about Messner's goal of 1000m of ascent in an hour, which I thought was a useful gauge for measuring yourself.

Look forward to the interview,

Patrick

In reply to Mick Ward:

Ah, you read my mind!!

In reply to Natalie Berry - UKC:

You could ask him if he's got any other ideas... like repeating Salathe Wall, for instance, which he did with Doug Scott in 1970? Now that'd make a great oldies ascent!

In reply to Natalie Berry - UKC:

Just a word of advice here Natalie, always avoid asking elderly gentlemen if they've got anything in the pipeline...

In reply to jon:
Haha. Fortunately 'pipeline' probably won't translate too well into German. Thanks for the suggestions Mick, Jon and Patrick. For extra points, now translate them into German...

Peter seems very friendly over email. He said: 'JA, gerne können wir über die Eigerwand ein Interview machen, ist ja doch ungewöhnlich dass da noch Opas durchmarschieren...'

How many Granddads have climbed the North Face of the Eiger I wonder?!

In reply to Natalie Berry - UKC:

Google translate butchers that nicely as usual: 'Yes, we can make an interview about the Eigerwand, it is unusual that there are still opa marching through ...'

In reply to UKC News:

That ME video is brilliant with a great historical perspective - he clearly sees Bonatti and Buhl as the giants on whose shoulders he and Messner stood. I wonder whether he now sees himself as a giant (however modestly). And who is now standing highest on his shoulders?