In reply to Simon4:
Hi Simon, thanks for the kind feedback. I’m afraid that any comparison between my turgid prose and something written by Conrad could give the great and late Jòzef Teodor enough spin to make his grave radioactive.
As for the rest, I must admit I’m not a great fan of “digging in the dirt” when writing about climbers. It makes for a popular sub-genre, and it’s probably funnier to write about “mountain death porn” rather than about lists of first ascents and grades and lines as “the climbing was very difficult”. But dissecting climbing controversies rarely pays truth any service – it’s interesting, but almost never “true”. In the latest Alpine Journal, Jim Curran has written a nice sequence K2 related book reviews (five!), and discussing Robert Marshall’s heinously titled “K2: Lies And Treachery” he says – quite acutely – something like “writing about the minutes of bottled oxygen science almost 60 years after the actual events is almost self defeating”. Again – fun to read, but it’s not the “truth”, and not even a serious attempt to understand the truth.
A causal glance to the literature devoted to Everest 1996 or worse K2 2008 will convince anyone with a bit of critical sense that 90% of it is, to put it charitably, self serving trash. And even outside the realm to extreme high altitude hullabaloos, things aren’t any better. Bonatti notoriously disliked Marco Ferrari’s “Freney 1961”, the only book specifically describing the Freney catastrophe. It was honest and well written, but completely missing the point, because the author seemed more interested in writing well rather than writing of a good chronicle. The 1971 tragedy on the north face of the Jorasses (the “winter martyrdom” of Renè Desmaison and Serge Gousseault) is the mountain accident I know more in deep. I must have seen and read more documents on that than any other Jorasso-phile around, but I anyone would ask me who was right and who was wrong in 1971, my honest answer could be only “I don’t have the faintest idea” – and I don’t think anyone will ever have one.
(One reason why I’m so interested in the climbing history of the Jorasses is that it’s a mountain that has seen a lot of great epics, few tragedies but just one real climbing controversy – bliss!)
This doesn’t mean I would not write about all those intricacies in Walter’s biography, but it couldn’t definitely be a casual affair, and would require a lot care and research – and time…