This week's Friday Night Video is a step back in time to 1994 as Ben Moon spends the summer bouldering in the Peak District. He climbs some desperate testpieces including Ben's Extension (f8A), Pinch 2 (f8A+), and pump up the stamina (f8B+), in this fly on the wall account of hard bouldering in the early '90s.
Bought a copy of this back in the day on VHS. Think the guy who sold it must have stored it in bright sunshine over a longer period of time because it was basically the most vague, washed out picture ever. Great to finally see properly what I didn't actually watch a bunch of times all those years ago. Hubble looks nails.
I'm pretty certain it was Colin Wells in OTE who reviewed this when it came out who said something like it is rather like watching hardcore pornography (remember this was when porn wasn't available to everyone on their phone!) - sort of fascinating the first time you see it but only the really perverse would watch it many times.
I do remember having it on the shop TV in the climbing shop I worked in in the mid 90s. Minus Wall at the mystical place named "Stoney Middleton" seemed almost exotic to us climber kids in Glasgow at the time. Now I live a few miles from Stoney, I know now that really it's just Sheffield's Dumby but with more traffic noise and minus a dramatic river and medieval castle!
I regularly walk over to Minus 10, have a session, a beer in the Moon and grab some chips to eat on the walk back across the fields. In many ways it’s a superior cragging experience to most places. Stanage came close when the pizza Van was parked up in the Plantation car park. 😂😍
It comes into its own near Xmas when there’s free mulled wine and people treat it like a wine bar. The fish and chips/take away local beer is a great option too.
I think the food is at its best under the current owners who are really nice people too.However, arriving on Friday teatime, beer in the Royal Oak, fish and chips, lock in in the pub and then head up the Dave to sleep. Climb next day and repeat was tremendous. That was back when it was owned by the old lady who also ran the chippy in Eyam.