UKC

Paul Robinson has now made the 2nd* ascent of Dave Graham's The story of 2 worlds, 8C+, on the Dreamtime boulder at Cresciano, Switzerland. To quote him "Yipppppeeee!!! The epic is over !!!!!!!!!!
"
It's been a long time coming and the other day he got agonizingly close when he climbed the whole...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=60838

In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC: Epic! But why is this given 8C+? I thought Dave Graham declared it benchmark 8C?

In reply to douglas: Dave talks about the grade here and it seems that he left it open for repeaters to suggest the grade.
http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/dave-graham-shares-story-two-world...

In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

Videos:

Daniel Wood's sending the dagger (7:15 in):

http://climbingnarc.com/2010/05/2nd-ascent-of-the-story-of-two-worlds/

Carlo Traversi on the Story of Two Worlds

http://fiveten.com/community/blog/10571-carlo-traversi-video-the-story-of-t...

Cheers

In reply to McBendy:

Dai's description:

http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/dai-koyamada-humble-and-powerful-r...

"Dai: The lower part moves are complex and particular. Start with right-hand(RH) undercling and left-hand(LH) sloper. Right foot(RF) is on a tiny stance below the undercling and left foot(LF) is on a toe-hook. This hooking is hard. Then RH aims for polished, rounded edge as intermediate and then to bigger and sloping edge's right side. Match this with LH. Change the direction of LF hook and RH goes to the starting hold of Dagger. Next move is the crux of the lower part. Both feet have to come off and resisting the swing is very hard and takes lots of energy. In fact, when I tried repeating the problem after the ascent for photo shoot I couldn't do it. After that is linked to the Dagger."

Which seems to be the starting point which Carlo is using in the video? But Bjorn says "it seems, he started three moves into the problem."

Would be interesting to see where the real start is!

In reply to McBendy: Thanks for making me check the facts. At first glance it would seem you are correct and that Dai in fact did start on the right holds, but after some analyzing I'm pretty sure he starts two moves in actually...
The news has been changed slightly

In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC: Well Dais description fits perfect with the vid of Traversi, so is that the wrong start? (I see PR is there too so maybe he started in the "wrong" way aswell?)

In reply to Southbeach:

Carlo was mis-informed about the start for a short time which is what you see in that video

http://climbingnarc.com/2011/03/the-story-of-two-worlds-v15-2nd-ascent-by-p...

In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC: great accomplishment. Just one question, and it's more about bookkeeping/accounting. The only two people who climbed Story rate it as 8C. Why then are you calling it 8C+?

In reply to mallory45: I was pretty sure Paul was going to call it 8C+, but in the end, he didn't. Remember Dai called it 8C/+, and that was with the slightly easier start which Paul says makes the first section go from 8B to 8A. I would say it's too early too say what's high end 8C or low end 8C+. It's not exact science.