UKC

On a recent trip to Pembroke Steve McClure climbed the pumpy E8 6c Point Blank in Stennis Ford, onsight.

Steve then went to the Lake District and onsighted Dawes Rides a Shovel Head (E8) and more...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=63670

In reply to UKC News: Aha, we thought we'd seen him in Langdale that day. He looked to be absolutely cruising Dawes Rides a Shovel Head.

In reply to UKC News:

I thought the Lake District wasn't cool anymore? Seems to be alot going down at the moment with Hocking, McHaffie etc.....

In reply to tom290483:
Love how he is using a single rope... none of your namby pamby double ropes!!! Hardcore!

In reply to creag: Maybe that's just what he had that day in his bag, but maybe like Will Gadd has done with ice climbing, Steve has realised with thin modern single ropes you might well be putting less impact on a runner using a single than with older style doubles. It's nice to see him wearing a helmet - making all us helmet wearers feel way cooler now in addition to our pre-existing air of moral superiority.

In reply to Mr Fuller:

Holds are Pre-chalked, you probably watched the guy who led it before Steve?

In reply to major stabby:

Yes because when we go to the crag we send up a scouting party to go up to the crags and jet wash them then re dry them in order to purify any on sights we may wish to do.

In reply to major stabby: The photo with prechalked holds are on Eulogy direct and he tried that on the ab first. You will notice that Dawes doesnt appear to be chalked...

In reply to boothy: From the ground it didn't appear to be either. At the time we'd all thought it was an onsight because the 'unknown climber' appeared to be taking a lot of time looking at the route as he climbed, not the pre-rehearsed thing you see with hard redpoints, for example.

It was definitely Steve we saw, unless there were two guys out in orange Beal t-shirts that day!

In reply to UKC News:

For those intersted : Dawes had a little chalk on it already, though hardly any, only on a few holds sheltered from weather, not enough to give away much.
Euology had none at all, certainly no one had been on it for yonks. I had a very brief look from the ab rope which was just to the side that Kieth had been taking shots from. The very chalked hold in the picture is a big jug to the right of trilogy that people have used on that route. Euology nearly joins trilogy for a few feet at that area.
Pointblank had none at all.
It makes a difference, but then it doesn't really make any difference!

In reply to ste mac: Nice one! There are a lot of inspirational onsights going down right now!

In reply to ste mac:

Bon effort Mr. Steve! Are you planning on coming back to the moors any time soon to get on some real routes rather than this namby pamby Lakeland stuff? I thought your finger problem was well good, would like to have another McClure testpiece to try

In reply to Franco Cookson:

You are obviously the guru when it comes to 'namby pamby stuff' - your 20m fall purple girlie pants rock.

In reply to Franco Cookson:
franco

do you mean that boulder at the wainstones above the firepit? The mono thing with a leap?

It needs a sit start, will be really good then. I had an injured finger last time I was there so couldn't try it. Remember it being reach to edge, then massive reach to mono, then another one to next mono, then leap.....

In reply to ste mac:

Yes, that's the one!
Did you just use the mono or the undercut to the right as well? and how on earth did you do it with a finger injury?!

I think I was fortunate to do the stand, I doubt I have what it takes for the sit...

In reply to Franco Cookson:

did the stand ages ago when finger was OK, but meaning to go back and sort out the true challenge....

In reply to ste mac: O, oright. If you need a spotter/groupie let me know.

In reply to Franco Cookson:

Is it actually v11? You made it look well easy in the video. Effort.

In reply to JimmyKay:

I really can't comment. I have no experience of bouldering really, especially at this grade. All I can say is that it would be a lot harder for someone with Steve's reach to do compared to my 6 foot 7 inch arm span.

In reply to Franco Cookson:

6'7" span, you've a reach like a sick dog !