UKC

NEWS: Pete Whittaker 2nd ascent of 'A Little Peculiar'

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Andi Turner reports:

Pete Whittaker (17) made the long awaited second ascent of Paul Higginson's A Little Peculiar (E6 7a/b) today on the Roaches Lower Tier.

The route is described in the Roaches guide as 'a one-armed footless mantelshelf onto the sloping lip, and may be one of the hardest moves of its type in the world'. Pete finished up Elegy (E2) and later, when asked by me

"So, is it 7b?"

Pete stated "Yes, I reckon so!"

Read More: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/
Mini 02 Jan 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Very fine effort, especially after turning up on the morning to find spindrift snow covering ALL of the holds on the direct section and on the finishing Elegy route.

Mart.
 petestack 02 Jan 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
> The route is described in the Roaches guide as 'a one-armed footless mantelshelf onto the sloping lip, and may be one of the hardest moves of its type in the world'.

But can it be any wackier than the mantelshelf on Dynamics of Change?

Impressive stuff either way (no way I could bend like Pete, let alone climb like that)!
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Spookily, it occurred to me while watching him do that astounding move on Dynamics of Change on Committed 2 over Christmas that he ought to go and have a look at this. Amazing effort.
 James Oswald 02 Jan 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Ahh!
I was wondering who it was who had left chalk marks on it when I saw it on Wednesday! Very impressive!
James
 James Oswald 02 Jan 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
But realy it does have footholds unlike what the rockfax guide says .......
 MorganPreece 03 Jan 2009
In reply to james oswald: Its a really nasty heal hook!!
I was there when Andi Turner was top ropeing it and it was amazing!!
Amazing line!!
 mark s 03 Jan 2009
In reply to james oswald: why would you wonder who had left chalk on a route?



nice one pete,bloody good effort.
 Dan Lane 03 Jan 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

He does like his heel hooks and crazy mantelshelfs doesn't he?

Well done.
Dan
 andi turner 03 Jan 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Come on Jack, first ascentionist said 7b, second ascentionist said 7b so where does this 7a/b come into it? It's time to set these technical grades free :op

Andi
simonwhittle 03 Jan 2009
In reply to mark s
Why would you wonder who had left chalk on a route?

Because he wondered who had been on it maybe? You say that as if its wrong to wonder whos been on a route!
 James Oswald 03 Jan 2009
In reply to mark s:
"In reply to james oswald: why would you wonder who had left chalk on a route?"

Because it hadn't had a second ascent and I was wondering if it was going to get one. Something wrong with that?
James
 justin c 03 Jan 2009
Nice one Pete ! Bloody long awaited repeat . .

nice to see you took advantage on the cold weather !

J
 Souljah 03 Jan 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

He will have some Peculiar aches this morning!
An inspiring piece of climbing Pete. Well done.
 Jon Read 03 Jan 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Well needed ascent. Top stuff!
In reply to andi turner: I certainly wouldn't argue with that Andi!

I just took my news item grade from the nearest guidebook which was Rockfax Western Grit, and also by looking in the UKC logbooks: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=16031 and on the Rockfax website: http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=6185

However it could be E6 9b for all I know!

Superb effort from Pete Whittaker.

 Mr Lopez 03 Jan 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

> However it could be E6 9b for all I know!

Is that what it equals in french money??? A f9b mantleshelf? Holly f**k!!!

Mini 03 Jan 2009
In reply to Mr Lopez:
> (In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC)
>
> [...]
>
> Is that what it equals in french money??? A f9b mantleshelf? Holly f**k!!!

Apparently 8a.nu converts the grade of E6 7b to being an 8c sport route grade - you gotta laugh eh?
 andi turner 03 Jan 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Cool, couldn't agree more.

As for 8c comparisons, well, we can't compare trad grit to limestone sport climbing, two very different games. I suppose if we had a grand graded list of trad grit routes compared to sport routes then it probably would equate.

I'd have no reservations in saying that Pete would be an 8c equivalent grit climber, his skill, dedication and technique would equate to this, if you get what I mean....
 James Oswald 03 Jan 2009
In reply to andi turner:
Maybe we should bolt some grit to allow us to give sport grades to grit..........
 JSA 03 Jan 2009
In reply to james oswald:

cans and worms james, save it for another thread :0)
 James Oswald 03 Jan 2009
In reply to the inspiral carpet:
Sorry I had to :P
 mark s 03 Jan 2009
In reply to andi turner: the lad is in a differant league
 James Oswald 03 Jan 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Anyone know how many days working it it took him to do that move?
James
 andi turner 03 Jan 2009
In reply to james oswald:
>
> Anyone know how many days working it it took him to do that move?
> James

A lifetime of dedication, then a couple of brief sessions on a rope.
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator  UKC Supporter 03 Jan 2009
In reply to james oswald:

> But realy it does have footholds unlike what the rockfax guide says .......

Well obviously you can stand on the handholds!


Chris
 MorganPreece 03 Jan 2009
In reply to andi turner: If your dedicatid to a route, and want to do it,
like andi and Ramshaw crack, ive heard the storys off Ross!!
 James Oswald 03 Jan 2009
Did the FA use a similar sequence to Pete or did he do it differently?
James
 justin c 03 Jan 2009
In reply to james oswald:

new seq' . Paul mantled using a press . Like the victorian over mantle ?
Pete used finesse and technique and no tobacco ! Good on him !
 chris fox 03 Jan 2009
In reply to Chris Craggs:

> Well obviously you can stand on the handholds!
>
>
> Chris

Damn, thats why i can't climb harder. Thanks for the tip

 petestack 03 Jan 2009
In reply to Chris Craggs:
> Well obviously you can stand on the handholds!

But don't handholds become footholds if you do? :-/

 Souljah 04 Jan 2009
In reply to petestack:
Yes, if like Pete you can get your feet up past your head!
 SGD 06 Jan 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: I missed all this.......Fantastic effort...its Astonishing the moves this lad can pull
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Good effort, sir.

jcm
paulo 17 Jan 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Only just found out bout this. Fine effort Pete. I was starting to think if it had remained unrepeated for any longer people would have started to question the first ascent! SO 7B it is then...
 mark s 17 Jan 2009
In reply to paulo: think you did it a differant way tho,pete's super bendy.you're just strong
 andi turner 17 Jan 2009
In reply to paulo:

That's what he said! Brilliant route, great to see it done.

Paul, there would never have been any questioning the first ascent, don't you worry!

SO, if 7b stands, was it the first ever 7b on a route?
 teddy 17 Jan 2009
In reply to andi turner:

> SO, if 7b stands, was it the first ever 7b on a route?

Warm Love and the Quarryman top pitch are 7b

 andi turner 17 Jan 2009
In reply to teddy:

Warm Love was after LP if I recall correctly. Has the Quarryman top pitch been repeated? Was the grade confirmed?
 teddy 17 Jan 2009
In reply to andi turner:
> (In reply to teddy)
>
> Warm Love was after LP if I recall correctly. Has the Quarryman top pitch been repeated? Was the grade confirmed?

What does LP mean?

Yes the top pitch of Quarryman has been repeated. I am not aware of any downgrading of it to date.

 andi turner 17 Jan 2009
In reply to teddy:

LP means Little Peculiar.
 teddy 17 Jan 2009
In reply to teddy:
> (In reply to andi turner)
> [...]
>
> What does LP mean?

Oh I get it. I'll have to take your word for it on that one.
 Peter Walker 17 Jan 2009
In reply to teddy:

> Yes the top pitch of Quarryman has been repeated. I am not aware of any downgrading of it to date.


Dunne repeated the groove and the top pitch. He gave the latter E6 7a.
 andi turner 17 Jan 2009
In reply to Peter Walker:

Interesting... So there's potential.

I suppose it'd be interesting to know what route 7b's have been done since, they tend to get shot down in flames!
 Andy Farnell 17 Jan 2009
In reply to andi turner: Wasn't Hubble given E9 7b in old money when first dome?

Andy F
 teddy 17 Jan 2009
In reply to andy farnell:
> (In reply to andi turner) Wasn't Hubble given E9 7b in old money when first dome?
>
> Andy F


yes you're right, and this is considered to be the perfect example of a 7b move on a route. No downgrade on this one.
 MorganPreece 17 Jan 2009
In reply to andi turner: Did pete robins do Quarryman??
 James Oswald 17 Jan 2009
In reply to andi turner:
Is there any 7b routes on Salmon Slab at Bamford?
James
 peteJ23 18 Jan 2009
Smoked Salmon E7 7a..as hard as it gets, you could always try it one handed for a 7b
 James Oswald 18 Jan 2009

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