In reply to UKC News: i don't really follow top-end climbing but got the impression that ondra was easily the best climber in the world yet he never seems to win on the competition scene. is that right? what's the difference in skillset required to his onsighting hard sports routes and winning competition climbing? is it just a matter of dealing with the pressure/less time to plan your moves?
mendis21 Sep 2010
In reply to Tobias at Home: Have a look at his ifsc profile, i think you'll find he's won quite a few comps... Seems to not be doing as well this year with the leading but that might be because he's doing more bouldering this year to try and win in the bouldering rankings since he won the leading last year? Comp climbing is a massively different to sport climbing though.
In reply to Tobias at Home: I would say it is different in many ways.
1. It's indoor, on plastic. Very different to rock.
2. You are in front of 500+ people.
3. You may have to climb several routes in relative quick succession (qualifying, semis, final, possibly super final). Maybe over 2 days.
4. You have one go on one route. There is no falling off and then just trying the route next door (like you could outside).
5. You may well have travelled half way across the globe just a few hours before.
And if you are Adam Ondra, you have probably entered the bouldering comp the following day, and a few days previously ticked 4 F8c's or something.
Full respect to anyone competing at a high level. Insanely difficult.
> And if you are Adam Ondra, you have probably entered the bouldering comp the following day, and a few days previously ticked 4 F8c's or something.
> Full respect to anyone competing at a high level. Insanely difficult.
Cannot get over how Ondra can do both categories at the same time and rank podium positions in both, absolutely incredible. He surely will be remembered as one of the all time greats.
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