UKC

Austrian climber Alex Luger has made the second ascent of Beat Kammerlander's Prinzip Hoffnung E10.
The route on the Burs Plate in Austria was first climbed by Kammerlander a decade ago as a sport route at F8b/+. Last year he climbed it without the bolts and estimated a mighty E10.
Alex Luger has...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=52716

In reply to UKC News:

The report on Planet Mountain is also available in english:
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=37...

In reply to Guy Maddox:

"....and climbing such a line in the "cleanest" of styles represents a dream come true. After the first sporadic attempts on toprope in Spring 2009...."

Eh?

In reply to Neil Foster:


Personally I think we should be applauding the fact that some mainland Europeans enjoy a trad outing now and again. And so what if it was a headpoint? It's quite a tricky route.

In reply to Neil Foster: By '"cleanest" of styles' he is obviously referring to the trad nature of the route......it is a translation!

In reply to Papillon:

Route looks unbelievable. What a sheet of rock.

In reply to Mike Mead:

Careful Mike. There are numerous "mainland Europeans" who are outstanding trad climbers. We mustn't fall into the trap of thinking it is only Brits who do trad (a bit like thinking that it was the Rock and Ice who invented the hand jam!).

And I wasn't criticising his effort on what does indeed look like an outstanding wall, but merely wondering how someone could confuse top rope rehearsal of a trad route with the cleanest of styles.

Frankly I find the concept of de-bolting an established sport route before replacing it with a heavily practised "trad" headpoint (as Sonnie Trotter has done on some American routes) rather odd.

I certainly don't think it represents the great improvement in style which it is usually written up as.

Cheers

Neil

In reply to Neil Foster:

Then sorry, mate, maybe I misread or whatever but I don't understand where you're coming from. You seemed at first to be dissing the achievement.

But anyway... Interesting that a new E10-ish ascent excites so little interst. Big News over here. Absolutely stunning route.

In reply to UKC News:

wow amazing trad route

similar grade to greenspit i noticed

In reply to Mike Mead:

First it is not a new route it's a repeat, a fine one. But as neil said rehearsed. Style is important when qualifying ascents.

Second don't confuse few forum comments with lack of interest. The news item has had nearly 2000 views in a couple of days.