UKC

Tom Randall has just climbed a hard and bold line up the wall to the right if Master's Edge, E7 6c, on Millstone Edge. Tom has named the route Pure Now, and graded it E9 6c...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68789

In reply to UKC News:

Looks like it could do with a direct start.

In reply to UKC News:

Do you know the significance of Tom not wearing matching climbing shoes?

In reply to UKC News:

"I felt like I was on a VS"

I've always said he can't tell the difference between one grade and another ! And is it really the same tech grade as Master's Edge ?

"I don't want to big it up too much as it's not that much of significant bit of climbing"

Is the route entirely independent of Master's Edge, or does it use that until the shot holes ? Either way it is a pretty iconic bit of rock, and a big gap.

In reply to Chris the Tall:



I think you climb masters edge to near enough the last move (classic pop for the jug) but move right onto the face.

In reply to Christheclimber:


sponsored by 2 different shoe manufacturers?

In reply to UKC News:

It's already been climbed, some bloke named Dick Turnball...

https://twitter.com/TomRandall2/status/445944322337550336/photo/1

In reply to crag_hopper_Jay:

A Turnballpoint ascent?

In reply to Blue Straggler:

I'd imagine Dick just shouted at the rock until it gave up.

In reply to adamki:

They're both 5.10...

In reply to Christheclimber:


… maybe evidence that the new "pinks" aren't as good as the old "whites" in certain situations?

In reply to UKC News:

That's a great first ascent in 1992!!!

In reply to UKC News:

I don't think he chose this route because it was hard and serious - he chose it because he saw the new line potential. That it was hard and serious was purely incidental.

In reply to Michael Gordon:


not according to his blog: http://tomrandallclimbing.wordpress.com/

"This lead me to scouting around the gritstone edges looking for something that I thought would be of 8a or more to top rope but one where a fall during the hard climbing would lead to hospital. I needed it to be so uncompromising that there was no shirking away from the reality of the situation"

In reply to UKC News:

Top picture looks like a pose from a 70"s kung Fu movie.

In reply to Christheclimber:

Probably because the pinks are a bit softer than the whites. So the route probably requires more smearing with the left foot and edging with the right foot.

In reply to Graeme Hammond:



Routes like that must already exist on grit, no?

In reply to UKC News:

A harder finish to a route, rather than a 'new' route?

In reply to aln:

Masters edge indirect finish, yeah.

Oh and while we're at it how about Brooks crack indirect finish over on burbage south, spicy one that.

In reply to GuyVG:



Dunno what that is

In reply to aln:

Sure you can work it out...

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=10646

In reply to drysori:


Nope. We don't all lead peak-centric lives.

In reply to aln:

Neither did the guy who got the FA

In reply to dr_botnik:


FA of what?

In reply to aln:

One of the most iconic routes of the 80s which had a film made of Seb Grieve repeating it.