DESTINATION GUIDE: Rocklands, South Africa

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 UKC Articles 30 Jan 2017
Black Eagle, 3 kbIn the past decade, Rocklands has emerged as one of the worlds most popular bouldering destinations. Each summer, the Northern Hemisphere empties and boulderers flock to the Cederberg Mountains in South Africa.

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 jon 30 Jan 2017
In reply to UKC Articles:

> If you’re heading to Rocklands, it’s strictly bouldering I’m afraid.

Well that's not really true - unless all the bolted routes have been debolted?
In reply to jon:

Sorry, I meant in a sense that there isn't a great deal to do other than climb. I've changed it to reflect more what I meant.

 iamniccage 30 Jan 2017
In reply to UKC Articles:

Does anyone know when a new guide book is coming out?

The old guide is from 2010 and there has been considerable development out there the last few years with a plethora of new areas created.
 Trangia 30 Jan 2017
In reply to UKC Articles:
A word of warning about car hire. Car hire companies in SA tend to impose a massive damage excess (sometimes 100%) for accidents occurring on gravel roads - see the photograph of the "typical Cederberg road". I would advise taking out a separate excess insurance in the UK before you go.

Try insurance4carhire . I've used them when intending to hire in SA, and did unfortunately have a, thankfully, relatively minor accident. I had to pay the excess which was the cost of the repair, but insurance4car hire honoured the policy and re-imbursed me on my return.

For an interesting sight seeing day off near Rocklands, Wuppertal, a village founded by German Missionaries is an interesting half day out.
Post edited at 15:04
 AJM 30 Jan 2017
In reply to UKC Articles:

> October to May are an absolute no

I went at Easter for my honeymoon - you had to time problems for the shade but whilst I might choose the winter season if I had no other constraints I think I could certainly have a good trip there again if that sort of time was the only time I could go. Admittedly, this was bouldering up to about 7A, so not "proper" bouldering more requiring of prime conditions, but still.
 alx 30 Jan 2017
In reply to iamniccage:

Scott Noy, original guidebook author was drone surveying the sectors across May - Sept last year and word was that we should expect something in 2018.

The problem is that the guidebook is Scott's and he has not had time to work on it but in the same way he has not helped and passed on the project to willing others. There was as I understand it a bit of frustration due to the massive gap between old and newly developed sectors plus the hints at the back of the current guidebook tends to send parties on wild goose chases around the area.
 El Greyo 30 Jan 2017
In reply to AJM:

I agree. I went in early April and thought it was very pleasant. Wouldn't climb in the direct sun in the middle of the day. We tended to climb mornings and late afternoon/evening with a leisurely lunch break. I thought it perfectly comfortable. It's a very dry climate so can get away with higher air temperatures than, say, Font.

I don't boulder hard so maybe later in year is much better for hard boulderers, but I'd definitely disagree with April being 'an absolute no'.

It's a beautiful place.
 alx 30 Jan 2017
In reply to Trangia:

I would second Trangia on getting the extra car insurance and not paying for the extra car insurance the rental car companies offer you.
We do this every year and use Hertz with no issues.

With regards to the best season, the shoulder periods are great. April-June & August - September. The crags are quiet and if you go in august-September it's after the rains so all the flowers, plants and animals are out in force.
 iamniccage 31 Jan 2017
In reply to alx:

Thanks for the update.

I was out there in 2016 and was sitting on rest days at travellers rest where Nalle H and Dave Graham were drawing up new area topos. Hopefully some collaboration can exist with them. But is definitely need, had a number of those wild goose chases my self.

 Ed Kwong 01 Feb 2017
In reply to UKC Articles:
Great article, travelled there solo in June, loved it.

I think The Rhino (f7B+) should be on the list of Must Do's, it's one of the most famous problems in the world!
Post edited at 09:45
 owensum 01 Feb 2017
In reply to UKC Articles:

> the small matter of the incredible bullet-hard sandstone.

Pretty sure its a mix of quartzite and sandstone, and semi-metamorphosed stuff in between.

 alx 01 Feb 2017
In reply to iamniccage:

Just noticed your profile goals, are you heading out to Rocklands again this year? You should check out Jaws in dihedral, last day in paradise in the pass and Man vs Machine in arch valley.

We should be back again for three weeks May- June
 Jus 01 Feb 2017
In reply to Trangia:

I've been to Wuppertal - about 30 years ago!
 iamniccage 02 Feb 2017
In reply to alx:

alas i am not heading there again this year. it is on the cards for next year (?) now as baby is due in summer and Mrs would be annoyed if i headed off then.. will keep those routes in mind.

Last time i was there i was close on white mazda clan, vlad the impaler, pinotage and weichei, just couldnt quite get the links done. all awesome lines though.

Have fun
 alx 02 Feb 2017
In reply to iamniccage:

Nice, Weichei is a tough little problem.

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