A few more bits of extra beta: Best way to get there is fly Ryanair to Zaragoza, less than 2h drive (they don't fly there in winter). To warm-up, "Pince Sans Rire" sector is far better than the "rammed" and polished Camino. Visit Refugio Kalandraka and borrow their guidebook, it's the most up-to-date with grades and new routes added.
In reply to UKC Articles: I can't dissagree more about the local food. I thought the food at Kalandraka was good for the money and Is quick and the bar in the centre of Rodellar was very good! the nearest shop is over priced IMO so if you do bring your own food call in at a supermarket on the way, Huesca Maybe?
Hi David. There are a fair few good 6s that we did, but probably not enough to keep you going for a whole week. As far as I recall there were at least 7 or 8 really good routes around 6b/c (excluding the short, polished ones on the the left hand side of Camino). There is LOADS of stuff around 7a/7a+ though.
I think you might just do a week doing 6's. there's loads new 6's in Pince Sans Rire, and including El Camino, la Nuit sector and the odd scattered route here and there will get you through a week. Bear in mind, if you climbing 6c/+ in UKm expect doing 7a's there in no time. And then you are in heaven...
Indeed it is! I had a quick skim through it this morning in Goma II in Cornudella. Looks like a very nice guide, with photo topos of all the different sectors and updated grades (i.e. all the obvious soft-touch routes have been downgraded - unfortunately!!).
If it's available in this shop then it's sure to be available at the campsites and refuge in Rodellar.
I just returned from my first trip to Rodellar last Monday after five days of intensive climbing. The canyon is simply stunning. The climbing itself it's fun, oversized jugs (many man-made) on overhangs or roofs, though a bit monotone after a while. However, there are lines that are actual nature master pieces and alone make the whole trip worthwhile. Grades are extremely soft. Even on the new guide (2010) I found that all the routes I climbed could easily be downgraded by half or a full grade. For the super long routes is harder to say. A "ladder" of 40 meters would destroy everyone's arms, but a gymnast would probably have the same chances (or more?) of an experienced climber in my opinion. On-sights are very subjective, all holds being extensively marked. I did not particularly like seeing so many routes already dressed. However, thieves and vandals are very active in the area (although the locals deny) so in a way it's good so you don't have to leave your gear on your projects. I agree with the article about the food; it's not good, but it's not so important either after all. In conclusion, Rodellar it's a proper outdoor gym (marked holds, in-situ draws, friendly bolting, etc.), a theme park for climbers, probably the best of its kind. I enjoyed it very much and I think I'll definitely pay another visit one day.
> (In reply to Tim Broughtonshaw)
> Indeed it is! I had a quick skim through it this morning in Goma II in Cornudella. Looks like a very nice guide, with photo topos of all the different sectors and updated grades (i.e. all the obvious soft-touch routes have been downgraded - unfortunately!!).
> If it's available in this shop then it's sure to be available at the campsites and refuge in Rodellar.
Well i've ordered it so i can peruse it for some psyche prior to a trip. Aye did hear from Steve Crowe that there had been a few famous route downgrades... . At least i havent been there and had a route ive done downgraded.
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