UKC

NEWS: Ryan Pasquill Flashes Knockin' on Heaven's Door

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 UKC News 27 Oct 2010
Ryan Pasquill flashing Knockin' on Heaven's Door at Curbar., 4 kbRyan Pasquill has got the grit season off in style by bagging the first flash of Knockin' on Heaven's Door at Curbar.

After a two month trip to the Frankenjura where his attempts on Action Directe (F9a) were hampered by rain and 'not being able to get any weight on me feet,' Ryan was eager to get back on the gritstone slabs. And arriving at Curbar on Saturday, he was in no mood to ease back into it gently...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=58563

 sasmojo 27 Oct 2010
In reply to UKC News: An amazing flash!
 Mark Collins 27 Oct 2010
In reply to UKC News: Fantastic effort!

I thought this route was now supposed to be an E10 solo according to one of the mags covering Ben Heason's solo ascent in 2003.
Removed User 27 Oct 2010
In reply to Mark Collins:

How can the solo grade be any different to the lead grade?
 Offwidth 27 Oct 2010
In reply to Removed User:

The flash is presumably not an onsight. Some routes soloed onsight could be given an 'effective grade' for the added risk compared to a geared onsight if the protection makes a difference. This was a very impressive ascent in any terms IMHO, well done Ryan
 galpinos 27 Oct 2010
In reply to Removed User:
> (In reply to Mark Collins)
>
> How can the solo grade be any different to the lead grade?

I believe it was due to the different starts (Born Slippy) and the hand placed peg being originally placed with a hammer. The original line didn't traverse left to the low bomber gear.

Ben Tetler's solo was thought to be E9 I believe.
 Adam Lincoln 27 Oct 2010
In reply to UKC News:

Not bad for his second grit route of the year.
 slacky 27 Oct 2010
In reply to UKC News:

As I've written elsewhere, skills to both Ryan and Neil


@Editor : No citation of where Neil's text was copy and pasted from? Here is the source for reference http://is.gd/gmBiq
Removed User 27 Oct 2010
In reply to Offwidth: Careful!
 Paul Crusher R 27 Oct 2010
In reply to Offwidth: "The flash is presumably not an onsight"... so does that mean an onsight is presumably not a flash?
 Peter Walker 27 Oct 2010
In reply to UKC News: Pretty sure that Pollitt originally graded it E9 7a.
In reply to UKC News:

It's worth pointing out that although this news report suggests all the gear can be placed on lead, Nige said the hand placed peg would be impossible to place for anyone under 5'9".

Just sayin'
 Enty 27 Oct 2010
In reply to UKC News:

Ryan - why o why didn't you claim the onsight flash. We could have had a thread on UKC over 5000 posts long watching the pedants wet themselves for weeks.

If it was me I'd be claiming the OS - I don't give a toss about watching a mate do it first or getting beta from others. Awesome effort.



E
In reply to UKC News: Great effort by both Nige and Ryan. Well done lads
simonwhittle 27 Oct 2010
In reply to Enty: So a flash doesn't exist then? Onsight or headpoint!
 Enty 27 Oct 2010
In reply to simonwhittle:

Eh?

E
 Paz 28 Oct 2010
Can we finally put this goddamn schtoopid E10 hype to bed now?

In reply to midgets of the world unite:

Sucks to be you. I know you're gutted you're never gonna be able to flash this in the same style as Ryan now. Grow some .
 Morgan Woods 28 Oct 2010
In reply to UKC News: So what's he ever done in the 'jura?
In reply to Paz:

I just didn't want Jack to be responsible for killing Bransby....
 Jack Geldard 28 Oct 2010
In reply to midgets of the world unite: Well Simon wrote the report - I have no idea about this route, and I will never go near it (I hope!).

But I certainly don't want to kill Bransby. Adam Long on the other hand - well I owe him one from a few years back - so he better watch out...
 Adam Long 28 Oct 2010
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

You didn't die did you? MTFU Geldard.
 Reach>Talent 28 Oct 2010
In reply to Adam Long:
You didn't die did you? MTFU

I'm glad I'm not the only person who thinks this is a totally reasonable response to complaints about route choice/beta.
 irish paul 28 Oct 2010
In reply to Reach>Talent: Its also a good response to complaints about belaying....
 Jack Geldard 28 Oct 2010
In reply to Reach>Talent: You have no idea......
 Reach>Talent 28 Oct 2010
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
> (In reply to mkean) You have no idea......

Oh go on, how bad can it be?
 gaz parry 30 Oct 2010
In reply to UKC News: Wad
 James Oswald 30 Oct 2010
In reply to UKC News:
Just awesome.
How many ascents has this had now?
James
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