Wow! Steve's status as climbing legend has just been even further reinforced. What an amazing effort to take that fall and go back to despatch the route. Hats off to both him and Neil on such a stunning route.
Well done Mr McClure! Does anyone know how the other 'Big Mac' is doing on it? Has he had to return to his northern kingdom empty handed, or is his border reiving of Cumbrian routes ongoing?
Looks like novel rope work, with one rope for the bottom half which is then ditched once the second rope is into the final runners that will hopefully protect the runout above.
Awesome effort and achievement from both Neil and Steve.
But the real question is; where did Steve get his Blancos from? They look brand new. Has he got a secret stash or perhaps are Five Ten still supplying him?
Good question!! No supply from 5.10 that's for sure. I do have a 'stash' though that is only a few pairs. Actually I've been using the new pinks a fair bit, and the Crawe are great for bouldering. I was wearing the pinks on Lexicon when I was playing on it. However, for the lead, I wanted something I knew very well on my feet! No surprises (ironically I slipped when I fell off, though that was due to bad placement)
Yeah I made that up on the fly really and it seemed to make sense as the bottom wall naturally climbs across from right to left and then back again. The route would also go even better on 2 ropes, as the kit in the break is spread along it, but I'd decided that the impact force on me with 2 halves would be too much in a big lob (as belayer has to be tied down).
> Impressive stuff, but now we know its not a death fall how can it be E10 or above?
Perception of probabilities. Just because you got away with something once doesn't mean it's safe. Alex Honnold's (successful) free solo of Freerider doesn't change the fact it's a dangerous thing to do. Patrick Edlinger died falling down the stairs in his house, that doesn't mean it's E11
I agree it's impressive, but at the same time I think it's just nuts taking 70ft falls. From the accounts unexpected things were happening with the gear, krabs breaking and getting cross loaded, so I would suggest because it wasn't a death fall this time doesn't give much comfort to potential future ascentionists.
I feel like every single thread I read on UKC somehow, no matter how it starts, turns into a debate about grades!
Can we not just celebrate the determination, skill, effort and enjoyment these two climbers have put into the climb?!
Cracking effort and great read.
Looking at the photo of Neil, it would appear he skipped the first runner to avoid rope drag. Your setup does make a lot of sense, in that the dynamics of the top system would seem more predictable and you have the bonus of added protection at the start of the route.
Well played, on a quick hard repeat.
> Awesome effort and achievement from both Neil and Steve.
> But the real question is; where did Steve get his Blancos from? They look brand new. Has he got a secret stash or perhaps are Five Ten still supplying him?
I've still got a new pair waiting to be broken in. I've also a pair of what used to be "blancos" but are now "dirty greyos" that I use sparingly. I don't tie the shoelaces either - there's no point, it just adds time to the process and doesn't make them any tighter. In fact, I've got an even older and greyer pair that I took the laces out and they still feel like they're stuck to my feet with superglue.
This week's Friday Night Video features 12-year-old Gianluca Vighetti, who in September 2021, climbed his hardest route to date with an ascent of TCT (9a), at Gravere, Italy. With his ascent, Gianluca became the youngest person to have climbed...