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John Allen and Steve Bancroft - What have they ever done on Grit? - at the Moon Pub in Stoney Middleton this weekend. Around one hundred climbers descended on Stoney Middleton this weekend for a get together to celebrate the past and present of this iconic limestone crag in the Peak District.
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=57775
In reply to UKC News:
Looks like it was a good weekend, but from the photos it's striking how very male it all was. Was this because:
a) almost all of the good climbers of the day were male (the only prominent woman I recall from the early 80s Sheffield scene was Geraldine)
b) the women weren't interested in coming to a reunion
c) Mick has a particular interest in photos of men (and men's buns!)
Either way, I'd like to think the gender balance in the sport 30 years on is a lot more healthy - would I be right?
Looks like it was a good weekend, but from the photos it's striking how very male it all was. Was this because:
a) almost all of the good climbers of the day were male (the only prominent woman I recall from the early 80s Sheffield scene was Geraldine)
b) the women weren't interested in coming to a reunion
c) Mick has a particular interest in photos of men (and men's buns!)
Either way, I'd like to think the gender balance in the sport 30 years on is a lot more healthy - would I be right?
In reply to UKC News:
Brill. Looks like a chronic injuries and long-term fingery climbing cohort study just waiting to be done.
Brill. Looks like a chronic injuries and long-term fingery climbing cohort study just waiting to be done.
In reply to john arran:
Simple answer John, there were very few women in this scene.
The gender balance in climbing today is far better!
Regards,
Craig
Simple answer John, there were very few women in this scene.
The gender balance in climbing today is far better!
Regards,
Craig
In reply to UKC News: As the first to arrive on Saturday, and for quite a while after, I wondered if the whole thing was going to be a damp squib - a very slow start. But people started arriving, the sun started to come out & climbing started to happen. It was brilliant to see all the old folks again, just a shame I could not stay for the session in the Moon. I'm sorry to have missed John & Steve (but I would not have recognised John anyway!). Thanks to UKC for the opportunity(and Mick Ward for the initial story)- see you all next year?
In reply to petemeads: Hi Pete! It was great to meet you on Saturday and to get some time to chat with you.
We did have a few damp periods, but all came good in the end thanks to the awning c/o Alan James.
It was a good job the rain stayed off while Ian Lonsdale was cooking the sausages or everyone would have gone home smoked like kippers.
Phil
We did have a few damp periods, but all came good in the end thanks to the awning c/o Alan James.
It was a good job the rain stayed off while Ian Lonsdale was cooking the sausages or everyone would have gone home smoked like kippers.
Phil
In reply to UKC News:
More names added - thanks Neil Foster. Please, if you were there and weren't on the list could you add your name here.
Also
Thanks to Wild Country for supplying gear for prizes. You made these lads even happier.
Can you post your full names so I can caption the photo?
Mick
More names added - thanks Neil Foster. Please, if you were there and weren't on the list could you add your name here.
Also
Thanks to Wild Country for supplying gear for prizes. You made these lads even happier.
Can you post your full names so I can caption the photo?
Mick
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Hi Mick - didnt see my or pail Nilands name on the list
Many thanks for organising a superb event. Despite the poor weather on Saturday I had a great time and a good laugh, with a lot of people I havent seen for years
Paul Niland from Sterling Ropes had a brilliant time too and its always good to hear it from a Stoney fist timer - 'the routes look really great and the ones I did had some excellent climbing' - should he have gone to SpecSavers. Of course not becasue it if completely true
Nice one Ritchie and Wild Country for your great input and support
Many thanks for organising a superb event. Despite the poor weather on Saturday I had a great time and a good laugh, with a lot of people I havent seen for years
Paul Niland from Sterling Ropes had a brilliant time too and its always good to hear it from a Stoney fist timer - 'the routes look really great and the ones I did had some excellent climbing' - should he have gone to SpecSavers. Of course not becasue it if completely true
Nice one Ritchie and Wild Country for your great input and support
In reply to UKC News: from left to right on the photo of the lads is Mark Rankine and James Oswald - the other two lads are friends of their's from sheffield
Cheers for the weekend Mick
Tom
Cheers for the weekend Mick
Tom
In reply to TomBond: and it was James that took the whipper on minus 10
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Ben Tye, Nick Galpin and Brian Hall (Sunday only)
Phil Baker (Sat and Sun)
Someone (Alex I think?) took some good photos of Nick leading Padme on Sunday afternoon in the sunshine.
Ben Tye, Nick Galpin and Brian Hall (Sunday only)
Phil Baker (Sat and Sun)
Someone (Alex I think?) took some good photos of Nick leading Padme on Sunday afternoon in the sunshine.
In reply to TomBond:
Do you not get a mention for your whipper Tom?
(It's Nick btw, I was on Padme when you were clocking up airmiles)
Do you not get a mention for your whipper Tom?
(It's Nick btw, I was on Padme when you were clocking up airmiles)
In reply to galpinos: haha, unfortunately, Nick, it was only us that saw it, well, you guys, all i saw was rock flashing before my eyes!
and by then, Nick Colton and Mick had left!!
and by then, Nick Colton and Mick had left!!
In reply to TomBond:
Hi Tom, it was great climbing with Nick and you. But, bloody hell, the minute I disappear, you have a whipper and I miss out! I mean, how fair is that?
Mick
Hi Tom, it was great climbing with Nick and you. But, bloody hell, the minute I disappear, you have a whipper and I miss out! I mean, how fair is that?
Mick
In reply to Mick Ward: haha, yea, mick, i was on Om, pumped to buggery at the top, tried placing a wire but couldn't so carried on, and went right at the top instead of left to the big jug and fell
all my wires ripped apart from a Rock 4 which stopped me about 2m from the ground!
pretty close call!!
But yea, nice to meet you and good climbing with you too!
where did you disappear to on Sunday?
Cheers
Tom
all my wires ripped apart from a Rock 4 which stopped me about 2m from the ground!
pretty close call!!
But yea, nice to meet you and good climbing with you too!
where did you disappear to on Sunday?
Cheers
Tom
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Mark Rankine, James Oswald, Sam Bennet, Ollie Burrows.
Cheers
Mark Rankine, James Oswald, Sam Bennet, Ollie Burrows.
Cheers
In reply to Derbyshire Ben:
Yes I took some pics, sent one to Mick so it might appear on UKC soon. Also got a pic of the end result of the plummet next door.
Alex E
Yes I took some pics, sent one to Mick so it might appear on UKC soon. Also got a pic of the end result of the plummet next door.
Alex E
In reply to TomBond:
"haha, yea, mick, i was on Om, pumped to buggery at the top, tried placing a wire but couldn't so carried on, and went right at the top instead of left to the big jug and fell"
Sounds pretty much like my fall. My gear held though!!
James
"haha, yea, mick, i was on Om, pumped to buggery at the top, tried placing a wire but couldn't so carried on, and went right at the top instead of left to the big jug and fell"
Sounds pretty much like my fall. My gear held though!!
James
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: I was there, Dave Unwin (not to my knowledge on any photo. Sorry to have missed Bob Dearman.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Thanks to everyone for a great time, and for making us feel very welcome.. we only planned to pop in for a cuppa on Saturday morning but ended up staying the weekend!
I only managed to get one decent photo all weekend, mainly because I was too busy meeting new people and eating sausages...
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=154473
Apologies I didn't catch the climber's name, perhaps someone could fill me in?
Cheers again, already looking forward to the next reunion meet!
Thanks to everyone for a great time, and for making us feel very welcome.. we only planned to pop in for a cuppa on Saturday morning but ended up staying the weekend!
I only managed to get one decent photo all weekend, mainly because I was too busy meeting new people and eating sausages...
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=154473
Apologies I didn't catch the climber's name, perhaps someone could fill me in?
Cheers again, already looking forward to the next reunion meet!
In reply to Steve Kirman (Lindsey CC):
It must have been a very dry weekend. Looks like the photographed climber holds his head back and mouth open to catch drips of water from the overhang above!
It must have been a very dry weekend. Looks like the photographed climber holds his head back and mouth open to catch drips of water from the overhang above!
In reply to john arran: I think your memory might have failed you as Geraldine was certainly not alone - just perhaps the most vocal?
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Got there on Sunday....Nigel Baker and Brian Rossiter...AAh...happy days ...It's polished, but no worse than in the seventies!!!!!..Good effort to all that organised it!!
In reply to Mick Ward:
Hi Mick,
You disappeared on Sunday??
Yep it was typical Tom, poor gear, although he says bad belaying!!!
Put it in and go for it!!!..remember those days many years ago???
Unfortunately, Derbyshire Ben shouted go left for jug!! and as it was not in "yuf txt spk...yo diddly bro or sumfink lik dat" he went right!!!!!
Main reason for message..next time you are up "norf" drop us a line..plenty of room for you to stay, and take you best bouldering crag in world..Longridge!!! lol
Here from you soon??
Nick
Hi Mick,
You disappeared on Sunday??
Yep it was typical Tom, poor gear, although he says bad belaying!!!
Put it in and go for it!!!..remember those days many years ago???
Unfortunately, Derbyshire Ben shouted go left for jug!! and as it was not in "yuf txt spk...yo diddly bro or sumfink lik dat" he went right!!!!!
Main reason for message..next time you are up "norf" drop us a line..plenty of room for you to stay, and take you best bouldering crag in world..Longridge!!! lol
Here from you soon??
Nick
In reply to alexekins: is that the end plummet of Om, you mean?
In reply to Steve Kirman (Lindsey CC): I'm pretty sure that is Masa, the japanese guy that I met at the weekend
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/profile.php?id=47754
is his profile
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/profile.php?id=47754
is his profile
In reply to nigel baker:
Remember the day?
What was it
Bubbles
Pickpocket
Wee Doris
Bitterfingers
Our Father
Scoop Wall
Medusa
Gesemeni
or some thing like that!!
Chris
Remember the day?
What was it
Bubbles
Pickpocket
Wee Doris
Bitterfingers
Our Father
Scoop Wall
Medusa
Gesemeni
or some thing like that!!
Chris
In reply to astley007:
Classic! I started climbing with a guy called Mickey Rooney, who got someone to write 'right' and 'left' on his jeans, just so as he'd be sure which was which when he was pissed. Mickey became... wait for it... a bank manager. < Shudders >
Om was always the piglet of that lot, especially when given HVS 5b, which it definitely ain't. So innocuous. So enticing. You'd merrily solo up to that top break only to think, "Oh shit!" Then, as Tom found out, the fun would start.
Had to scarper early and probably missed brilliant weather. But, as Arnie said, "I'll be back!" So much still to do oop North.
Will definitely be in touch. Was great to catch up with you and meet Tom. How long before we're relegated to belayers?
All best wishes,
Mick
> (In reply to Mick Ward)
> Unfortunately, Derbyshire Ben shouted go left for jug!! and as it was not in "yuf txt spk...yo diddly bro or sumfink lik dat" he went right!!!!!
Classic! I started climbing with a guy called Mickey Rooney, who got someone to write 'right' and 'left' on his jeans, just so as he'd be sure which was which when he was pissed. Mickey became... wait for it... a bank manager. < Shudders >
Om was always the piglet of that lot, especially when given HVS 5b, which it definitely ain't. So innocuous. So enticing. You'd merrily solo up to that top break only to think, "Oh shit!" Then, as Tom found out, the fun would start.
Had to scarper early and probably missed brilliant weather. But, as Arnie said, "I'll be back!" So much still to do oop North.
Will definitely be in touch. Was great to catch up with you and meet Tom. How long before we're relegated to belayers?
All best wishes,
Mick
In reply to astley007:
"Yep it was typical Tom, poor gear, although he says bad belaying!!!"
He blamed the rock when I spoke to him about it!
James
"Yep it was typical Tom, poor gear, although he says bad belaying!!!"
He blamed the rock when I spoke to him about it!
James
In reply to clochette:
Hit the nail square on the head there didn't you?!
Christine Crawshaw, Bonny Masson, Gill Price, Gill Lawrence and Gill Kent were activists for years. But generally it was a Babe - Free Zone.
> (In reply to john arran) I think your memory might have failed you as Geraldine was certainly not alone - just perhaps the most vocal?
Hit the nail square on the head there didn't you?!
Christine Crawshaw, Bonny Masson, Gill Price, Gill Lawrence and Gill Kent were activists for years. But generally it was a Babe - Free Zone.
In reply to UKC News:
Mick, I was a sometime visitor to Stoney in 85-86 . A very different era in climbing for sure. I found the strength I got from TR efforts on Helmut Schmidt and Scarab very helpful once I got back to the States. Would really love to get back to the UK and Peak in particular.
Mick, I was a sometime visitor to Stoney in 85-86 . A very different era in climbing for sure. I found the strength I got from TR efforts on Helmut Schmidt and Scarab very helpful once I got back to the States. Would really love to get back to the UK and Peak in particular.
In reply to Steve Kirman (Lindsey CC): Thanks Steve for posting the photo. I look nervous before the crux
And thank you VERY much, Mick and the organisers/sponsors of this event!!
Personally traditional bivvy up on Windy Ledge (have to be done!) and onsight ascent of Scoop Wall (despite the stuffed stomach...) certainly made this a memorable weekend for me!
I have uploaded a few photos to UKC. The entire collection of the Reunion weekend with full resolution is found in my Flickr page:
http://flickr.com/gp/alpiniste/k2M514
Have fun, Masa
And thank you VERY much, Mick and the organisers/sponsors of this event!!
Personally traditional bivvy up on Windy Ledge (have to be done!) and onsight ascent of Scoop Wall (despite the stuffed stomach...) certainly made this a memorable weekend for me!
I have uploaded a few photos to UKC. The entire collection of the Reunion weekend with full resolution is found in my Flickr page:
http://flickr.com/gp/alpiniste/k2M514
Have fun, Masa
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Bill Briggs was there too (there is a picture of him starting the 2nd/traverse pitch of Froth in Masa's Flikr page) and I'm sure I noticed Robin Barker about the place.
It was really nice to be able to drive to the foot of the climbs again!
J
Bill Briggs was there too (there is a picture of him starting the 2nd/traverse pitch of Froth in Masa's Flikr page) and I'm sure I noticed Robin Barker about the place.
It was really nice to be able to drive to the foot of the climbs again!
J
In reply to masa-alpin:
Hi Masa,
Thanks for sticking these photos up. I brought a camera and forgot to use it! Good effort on Scoop Wall. There are easier E2s - millions of them. Hope to climb with you next time.
All best wishes,
Mick
Hi Masa,
Thanks for sticking these photos up. I brought a camera and forgot to use it! Good effort on Scoop Wall. There are easier E2s - millions of them. Hope to climb with you next time.
All best wishes,
Mick
In reply to Mick Ward: Thank you, Mick!
I am going to Froggatt this Saturday (and perhaps somewhere on Sun, depending on the weather). You are welcome to join us! Or maybe a guided tour in your home ground(?) Stoney one day would be great It is still very underexplored for me.
Hope to see you soon.
All the best, Masa
I am going to Froggatt this Saturday (and perhaps somewhere on Sun, depending on the weather). You are welcome to join us! Or maybe a guided tour in your home ground(?) Stoney one day would be great It is still very underexplored for me.
Hope to see you soon.
All the best, Masa
In reply to UKC News:
Sorry to revive this thread after everyone else has forgotten about it but I'd like to add my thanks to Rockfax and the BMC for organising this event. It was great to see a bit more traffic on Stoney than usual, and I enjoyed my tea and burger.
I spent a lot of time at Stoney in my youth, especially around 1979-80 (quite apart from having lived here for the last twelve years). I wasn't part of the Stoney scene; I was bit too young, too shy, and too crap a climber. But I spent what seems looking back like weeks in the Mineshaft cave (never liked Windy Ledge - the sun wakes you up too early), and I remember some great times in the climbers' apocalyptic vision of the wasteland with people like Neil Buttle, Billy McKee, Alastair Nelson and Mark Miller (the latter two sadly no longer with us).
The weekend also reminded me that I've got a couple of the climbing pictures from the cafe, which I fished out of a skip during one of its changes of ownership. I'm not sure what to do with them - unfortunately they aren't in great condition, being a bit faded and stained. Maybe I should ask Claire in the Moon if she's interested. Which brings me on to the best bit of last weekend; it was a great saturday night in the Moon, lots of people and a great friendly atmosphere. It was a pleasure to meet the two legendary Micks, Ryan and Ward. As the Moon is my local I only wish it was like that more often. Time to see more climbers there!
Sorry to revive this thread after everyone else has forgotten about it but I'd like to add my thanks to Rockfax and the BMC for organising this event. It was great to see a bit more traffic on Stoney than usual, and I enjoyed my tea and burger.
I spent a lot of time at Stoney in my youth, especially around 1979-80 (quite apart from having lived here for the last twelve years). I wasn't part of the Stoney scene; I was bit too young, too shy, and too crap a climber. But I spent what seems looking back like weeks in the Mineshaft cave (never liked Windy Ledge - the sun wakes you up too early), and I remember some great times in the climbers' apocalyptic vision of the wasteland with people like Neil Buttle, Billy McKee, Alastair Nelson and Mark Miller (the latter two sadly no longer with us).
The weekend also reminded me that I've got a couple of the climbing pictures from the cafe, which I fished out of a skip during one of its changes of ownership. I'm not sure what to do with them - unfortunately they aren't in great condition, being a bit faded and stained. Maybe I should ask Claire in the Moon if she's interested. Which brings me on to the best bit of last weekend; it was a great saturday night in the Moon, lots of people and a great friendly atmosphere. It was a pleasure to meet the two legendary Micks, Ryan and Ward. As the Moon is my local I only wish it was like that more often. Time to see more climbers there!
In reply to Richard J:
Hi Richard
Claire would really like to get a wall started of climbing photos, and I'm sure she'd love to have those particular photos, which are after all part of Stoney Middleton history. I've been looking for those photos for some time now and I'm amazed and pleased they've finally turned up - good on ya for taking them out of that skip!
Phil
Hi Richard
Claire would really like to get a wall started of climbing photos, and I'm sure she'd love to have those particular photos, which are after all part of Stoney Middleton history. I've been looking for those photos for some time now and I'm amazed and pleased they've finally turned up - good on ya for taking them out of that skip!
Phil
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