In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> One wonders whether trad climbing gets much better than this. Fantastic stuff.
What a bizarre thing to say Gordon. Whilst many are doing sport routes on trad gear, it does surely get much better than that.....try doing a trad route as a trad route.
I like Bisharat's take on it.
Have a read, and weep...
STARTS
There is an interesting phenomenon in climbing that involves what I am going to dub “contingent ascents.”
That is, ascents that often are not cutting edge but garner a lot of attention or interest because the ascent hinges on some kind of contingency. This category of ascents contains a degree of gradation, from the “first female ascent” (which may or may not be significant due to many factors) to something as contrived as the First Deaf Colombian ascent of Mount Everest (not that being deaf or Colombian is contrived—but these days climbing Mount Everest is).
Other contingent ascents might be: Climbing a famous route and downgrading it. Climbing a route without a chipped hold. Mixed climbing without heel spurs. Mixed climbing without leashes. Climbing a Grit headpoint without crash pads. Everest without oxygen. Everest without porters. Everest without fixed ropes. Not using kneepads.
Climbing a sport route on trad gear.
You can catch up here:
http://www.rockandice.com/tnb-blog/tnb-contingent-ascents-sport-routes-on-t...
Happy Holidays,
Mick