UKC

NEWS: Steve Townshend Repeats Pembroke E10

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 UKC News 20 Sep 2010
The Stennis Ford page from the forthcoming Pembroke Rockfax guide (July 2009), 4 kb Canadian climber Steve Townshend has made the second ascent of Tim Emmett's recent Pembroke addition Muy Caliente! (E10).

Townshend, a part-time pilot based in Squamish, Canada, visited the UK for a whistle-stop two days as a detour from his main trip to France...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=57903

 James Oswald 20 Sep 2010
In reply to UKC News:
Awesome news.
Is there any video footage available of him on it? It made me realise just how good the footage of Tim trying it is!
James
 GDes 20 Sep 2010
Awesome effort Steve. It must have been the astonishingly hot chilli's from Easton that did it.
In reply to GDes:

Or those TCA double espesso's...
Awesome effort Steve - hope Revelations got devoured on the flight home
In reply to UKC News:
I don't think there will be any video of the sucessful ascent. I walked past just after he had fallen off his first lead attempt and stayed to watch the sucessful ascent. Ed who I had been climbing with took a few pics on his mobile phone, only two other climbers and a few tourists were watching and no one else seemed to have a camera.

He looked very smooth and in control and climbed very quickly, I was wondering how much practice he had had. Very impressive if he had only had two short goes on it.
 220bpm 20 Sep 2010
In reply to UKC News: That is impressive. Well done that man!
 ollyhorst 20 Sep 2010
In reply to 220bpm: I also was privileged to watch the successful accent it was amazing to watch. Steve made it sound easy when he was talking about it in the pub.
 ollyhorst 20 Sep 2010
In reply to mountain.martin: Me and my bro were the other two climbers watching the climb. i couldnt believe how fast and easy he made it look.
In reply to ollyhorst:
Indeed, I don't look that cool on a HVS.
 ollyhorst 21 Sep 2010
In reply to mountain.martin: I know what you mean.
 GrahamD 21 Sep 2010
In reply to UKC News:

What is the concensus on the grade ? is it an E10 that Dave Macleod or Dave Birkett would recognise as such ? there don't appear to be many....
In reply to UKC News: Has Dave Birkett climbed an E10? Not saying he wouldn't recognise one, was just wondering.
Etak 21 Sep 2010
In reply to all: - and he seems to have climbed it in his jeans - just imagine what he could do if bought some of those funky climbin tros
In reply to JM:

He believes the grade dose not exist yet maybe he just needs to try the cutting edge things like Eco wall then he might change his mind
 Richard Hall 23 Sep 2010
In reply to GrahamD: Only 2 people have done it, one says E10, the other says 8bRX. Sounds like they agree to me.
 Michael Ryan 23 Sep 2010
In reply to GrahamD:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> What is the concensus on the grade ? is it an E10 that Dave Macleod or Dave Birkett would recognise as such ? there don't appear to be many....

Birkett has been on this route but has been busy elsewhere????

In reply to JM:
> (In reply to UKC News) Has Dave Birkett climbed an E10?

No, nobody has ever actually climbed an E10, its graded for the onsight! Its all make believe after E8 isn't it?
 GrahamD 23 Sep 2010
In reply to Mick Ryan - Senior Editor - UKC:

> Birkett has been on this route but has been busy elsewhere????

I don't know - thats why I'm asking. Genuine anorak interest...

 Skyfall 23 Sep 2010
In reply to snoop6060:

I thought Birkett has said something to the effect he wasn't sure an E10 existed full stop.
 long 23 Sep 2010
In reply to JonC: Birkett said he thought Muy Caliente! was easier than his E9s.
In reply to JonC:

He did....

Birket:

"I don’t think I’ve ever climbed an E10. Cos I jus’ don’t think they exist like, as yet. Well how ‘ards E10? It’s like death. You’re gonna die jus’ looking at, aren’t you, really? You know it like, er, a big benchmark thing isn’t it? You would imagine like… I dunno… you gotta be right up in the high f8cs, with no gear I would imagine, ‘know what I mean to be E10?

When I first started climbing this guy said to me, to be as good as me Grandfather, you’re gonna have to climb E10, ‘cos he climber the first E1 or whatever. And the grade at that time then, I think Indian Face had just been done, and that was E9.

And er, you kinda think it is like almost kinda thing. It’s a big, a big, it’s such a big number, and you get certain routes, which you can fall of some bits, but you can’t fall off other bits, type scenario. And I’ve always had in me mind that E10 is, form the ground you’re gonna hardly be. You know, it’s gonna be very dangerous and very very hard. And I don’t, well there are obviously very dangerous route on certain parts and I know we have all these, kind of, grade charts. And I dunno, jus the image of E10, to me, conjures up the image of some thing that’s very bloody hard indeed and very, like, dangerous y’know. And I dunno I just don’t think it’s there yet, to be honest."
 Skyfall 23 Sep 2010
In reply to snoop6060:

lol - yes I have it on dvd too

but how did you get that down so fast - are you sat in front of a TV with the DVD on or was it pre-prepared (weird!)
 Skyfall 23 Sep 2010
In reply to douglas:

I'm not surprised
In reply to JonC:

Haha, nope, I cant understand the guy and I'm a northerner too!

Cut, copy, paste from UKC via Google:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=262729

Video in there somewhere too.
 Andy Moles 28 Sep 2010
In reply to UKC News:

Sounds like Dave Mac has repeated it now as well...
 Al Onsight 28 Sep 2010
In reply to UKC News: I'm not too concerned about the grade, this is a good effort and inspiring stuff for most of us climbers whichever way you look at it. Nice one Steve!

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