UKC

NEWS: Suggested Bolting Guidelines In North Wales

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 Michael Ryan 30 Jul 2007
Climbers down in North Wales are that efficient that every month they send out a BMC Cymru newsletter as a pdf file to subscribers and what interesting reading it makes.

It is full of the latest access news, bolting stuff, latest BMC news, covers local training and guiding issues, even announcements...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/
 Enty 31 Jul 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Good stuff, however only three points down their gudelines there is a contradiction. (Nice get out clause if you ask me

"Add bolts where first ascentionist skimped due to finance or lack of effort, with their consent. "

How does this work with

"Re-bolt like for like on all classic routes"

I though the point was that the FA's lack of cash had inadvertently "created" these classic, unique and scary routes which we all enjoy?

The Ent ™
 danm 31 Jul 2007
In reply to Enty: I don't think that's correct Enty. Don't forget, there are routes other than on the slate in N. Wales! There are routes, on the slate particularly, which are designer climbs - minimally bolted. Argue the toss between yourselves over whether this was done in a grand spirit of adventure or if it was a case of grade chasing by the first ascentionists. Either way the end result is a series of classic routes in a fairly unique style. As the guidelines make clear, there is no intention to alter the character of these cherished routes.

There are also some other routes, which were poorly bolted on conception due to lack of funds etc. In many cases the first ascentionists are in fact the people involved with the rebolting, and they are now hoping to equip these routes as they originally intended.

Thats my understanding of it anyway. Personally I think climbing in Wales is in good hands.
 VisionSet 31 Jul 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

> Replace rotten old pegs and dodgy in situ kit with good bolts

Eh? So a manky peg on some classic E1 on cloggy is eligible for a bolt?

Surely, I hope, I am mistaken?

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