The idea of 'specialised' body types is covered in a lot of detail in this TED talk.
Also not to mention technology as a massive factor in progression. Sticky rubber, training facilities etc.
There's a good section in the talk on the changes of track surfaces and stuff...
> When are we going to stop using "envision" as a verb, or indeed a word? It's so f***ing illiterate and depressing.
When the dictionary does?
Examples Word Origin
verb (used with object)
to picture mentally, especially some future event or events:
to envision a bright future.
Excellent contribution jcm - incorrect, and pointless.
Really good article I thought, the only thing it didn't mention was the highball grey area. e,g, The Process gaining the extra grade (from v15 to v16) due to the crux third move being at significant height - and is it still a "true" boulder problem etc.
Physical limitations to one side, someone also has to find the boulder, which makes the assumption it exists in a place to be discovered.
> Physical limitations to one side, someone also has to find the boulder, which makes the assumption it exists in a place to be discovered.
This is a problem climbing has that other disciplines don't. Marathon runners know rather exactly where the two hour mark lies, although whether they will reach it in the foreseeable future is still an open question. Adam Ondra probably doesn't know at this point where there is a bit of rock that is a bit harder than hard 9b+, but not so much harder that it is currently completely impossible for him.
> Strange. I always thought bouldering grades (Font or Vermin) had nothing to do with any danger or psychological aspect, only the physical difficulty.
Indeed, which is why the V16 grade for The Process is mildly controversial as Daniel said in his North Face post that he did take this into account. Though perhaps, as well as the mental aspect the height brings, there is also the stamina (and thus physical difficulty) also inherent in the route.
> This is a problem climbing has that other disciplines don't. Marathon runners know rather exactly where the two hour mark lies, although whether they will reach it in the foreseeable future is still an open question. Adam Ondra probably doesn't know at this point where there is a bit of rock that is a bit harder than hard 9b+, but not so much harder that it is currently completely impossible for him.
So in some ways, plastic could be used to find this next level - as you could create "standard" problem, then just use progressively smaller and smaller holds until a limit is reached - wait for someone to tick it, then reduce the hold size again. But this highlights one of the points of the article - this would only find the one limit; hold size/type on a particular angle
Very interesting, but probably wrong. Grades are subjective, the hardest grade is the one only the best can do. This is theoretically infinitely hard, as it is impossible for all but the one person who can do it.
Moreover, if you work on your weaknesses when at your limit, you necessarily become worse at your strength. Working on powerful climbing styles might build a core that generally aids slab climbing, but for the very thinnest moves you need to lose all extra weight/muscle. In other words, being an all- rounder inhibits the difficulty you can attain in your natural strength.
Obviously as it's subjective there will be a perceived equivalent between the hardest amalgamation of styles and the hardest problem of a pure style, but I'd suggest this is a bit flawed if you're trying to talk about the hardest moves possible.
My understanding of bouldering might be a bit lacking, but this is certainly the case with trad crises.
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