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DIGITAL FEATURE: The Finest Crags in the UK & Ireland: Wilton

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 UKC Articles 12 Nov 2018
Wilton MontageMike Hutton continues his tour of the UK and Ireland's finest crags with a visit to Wilton Quarries.

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 liquid 12 Nov 2018
In reply to UKC Articles:

Wilton Crags finest crags in uk and Ireland hmmmmm

1
 Toccata 12 Nov 2018
In reply to UKC Articles:

A midge infested green hole in one of the wettest parts of the country? Is this ironic?

Before anyone gets on their high horse, I lived within walking distance of the Wiltons for a decade and have climbed there more than most.

 mrphilipoldham 12 Nov 2018
In reply to UKC Articles:

I have to admit when I read the thread title, I was somewhat bemused to read it was indeed Wilton of that there Lancashire. What next, Hobson Moor? John Henry?

 J Whittaker 12 Nov 2018
In reply to UKC Articles:

I live only 20 minutes away from Wilton and its by far and away my closest crag yet i hardly ever climb there. I did quite a bit when i first started climbing, its a bloody 'ard place to climb though. You don't get owt for nowt in the quarries and i find it a hard style. Maybe ill go back next summer and see if ive gotten any better.

 Steve Wetton 12 Nov 2018
In reply to UKC Articles:

This is gonna be a long series of articles if Ilkley and Wilton make the cut!

 Mick Ward 12 Nov 2018
In reply to J Whittaker:

Go back. It's a superb crag - just needs more traffic. Agree, you don't get owt for nowt - but then, doesn't that make the routes even more rewarding?

And the place is drenched in history. The giants of Lancashire climbing were also giants of UK climbing. Ray Evans - first attempt on Indian Face (ground-up) in 1967!!!

Mick

1
 Coel Hellier 12 Nov 2018
In reply to Mick Ward:

> Ray Evans - first attempt on Indian Face (ground-up) in 1967!!!

How far up did he get?

 webbo 12 Nov 2018
In reply to Steve Wetton:

> This is gonna be a long series of articles if Ilkley and Wilton make the cut!

So Milky Way, New Statesman, Beeline, Baldpate and A climb plus one or two others not worth getting out of bed to do.

2
 Graeme Hammond 12 Nov 2018
In reply to All;

I think Wilton as a collective is up there as probably one of the premier quarried gritstone venues only surpassed by Millstone, yes the setting isn't perfect but the quantity of high quality routes speak for themselves, the queen of Lancashire grit?

The photos in the article illustrate this and many were published in the BMC definitive guide to the area which is well worth getting. 

I've climbed a good selection of route in the quarries, and hope to do many more, and is only a short sub 1:30h drive from Sheffield!

 

Post edited at 20:48
 J Whittaker 13 Nov 2018
In reply to Graeme Hammond:

Give me a shout when you're thinking of going Graeme. Im local to Wilton and when not working offshore am free during the week. Im inspired to go and take another look after reading this article. Maybe next year though, it'l be nice and slimey by now.

 Mick Ward 13 Nov 2018
In reply to Coel Hellier:

> How far up did he get?


I think it was far enough to have an adventure!  Climbed back down under his own steam, I gather. A man of legendary boldness.

Given that Great Wall looks pretty blank from below, maybe people thought that Indian Face was just a little more blank? Going ground-up, how would you know - until maybe it's too late. 

When we were doing Peak Rock, Johnny Dawes was sitting in Phil Kelly's kitchen one night, doing an interview and doodling (as you do). Phil pointed out that he was doodling by Ray Evans' phone number. Spooky coincidence - greatly appreciated by JD, I believe.

Some brilliant climbers came from those Lancashire quarries. They may have been more reticent than their Yorkshire and Derbyshire counterparts but they were no less brilliant.

Mick

 

 

 Mick Ward 13 Nov 2018
In reply to Graeme Hammond:

> In reply to All;

> I think Wilton as a collective is up there as probably one of the premier quarried gritstone venues only surpassed by Millstone, yes the setting isn't perfect but the quantity of high quality routes speak for themselves, the queen of Lancashire grit?

Would totally agree. Re the setting, before it was grassed over, it was a bit grim. Much nicer now.

 

> The photos in the article illustrate this and many were published in the BMC definitive guide to the area which is well worth getting. 

Superb photos - surely nobody can argue with that?

 

> I've climbed a good selection of route in the quarries, and hope to do many more, and is only a short sub 1:30h drive from Sheffield!

And a lot of other places. On a good day, it's a superb venue, easily accessible for many of us. And the locals are friendly!

Mick

 

 J Whittaker 13 Nov 2018
In reply to Mick Ward:

> And the locals are friendly!

No we aren't :P

 

 

 Andy Farnell 13 Nov 2018
In reply to UKC Articles:

Hank on Constables, amazing to think he first climbed it in the mid 70's. It's solid E5 6b, no push over with modern gear. That top crack is burly finger locks that'll happily spit you off if you don't go full beans.

Andy F

In reply to UKC Articles:

I had a feeling this one was going to get a tough time, but it's nice to hear a few voices in support.

Whilst I can't profess to being a Wilton aficionado, I must admit to having been impressed when I went. Yes, it's a bit dark and dirty, kind of like an unsexy Millstone, but once you scratched beneath the surface (i.e. looked beyond the lichen) the quality was undoubtedly there. 

In a similar-ish (but slightly different way) I feel the same about Avon Gorge. It's a pretty visually unappealing crag, but once you get stuck in there really are some adventures to be had. Not only that, but it's a crag that has its own unique style, incorporating both bold and balancy climbing up terrain that whilst outwardly lineless, actually has a very distinct (and technical) path once you're on it.

Both crags also have a certain sense of history to them too and I for one feel like a richer person for having climbed at them both, in much the same way that I do having climbed at Cloggy or Gogarth. They're just different...

 

 Robert Durran 13 Nov 2018
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

> Both crags also have a certain sense of history to them too and I for one feel like a richer person for having climbed at them both, in much the same way that I do having climbed at Cloggy or Gogarth. They're just different.......

I think a good way to assess a crag's worth is to ask how far it is worth travelling for. Would I travel from Scotland specially to climb at Cloggy or Gogarth? Yes (even though I'm not by any means a Gogarth fan). Would I travel from Scotland specially to climb at Wilton? Well, no. I did once visit, but it all looked so unappealing that we pushed off somewhere else.

 

 Andy Farnell 13 Nov 2018
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Cameo was my first E1 back in 1989. I was so nervous that after I'd placed my first two wires I dropped my biner holding all the smaller nuts trying to place the third piece! Pushed on regardless and got another, larger rock in about 10ft from the top, meaning I virtually soloed it (I'd have decked from the crux). Nearly 30 years on the feelings and emotions are still as vivid.

They may be green, intimidating and nondescript on first acquaintance, but scratch just a little below the surface and diamonds appear from the lichen.

Andy F

In reply to Andy Farnell:

I think you've hit on exactly what I was trying to get at: it's the experiences that count (and that there's experiences aplenty to be found).

In reply to Robert Durran:

To be fair Rob, if I lived in Scotland I'd travel south as infrequently as I possibly could

That said, I've travelled to a lot of places and stand by what I'm saying: give these places a chance and it's infrequent that they don't give a whole lot back in return.

Pex Hill is another wondrous example of this. Steeped in history and hypodermic needles, it's got one of the most exacting climbing styles I've ever had the privilege of failing on. 

Post edited at 09:36
 Robert Durran 13 Nov 2018
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

> To be fair Rob, if I lived in Scotland I'd travel south as infrequently as I possibly could

> That said, I've travelled to a lot of places and stand by what I'm saying: give these places a chance and it's infrequent that they don't give a whole lot back in return.

> Pex Hill is another wondrous example of this. Steeped in history and hypodermic needles, it's got one of the most exacting climbing styles I've ever had the privilege of failing on. 

I'm sure that if Wilton or Pex could be transported to Scotland's Central belt they would make brilliant additions to the local cragging options, but I'm just not convinced that is enough qualification to be one of the "UK's finest". 

Also, personally, I just attach too much importance to the aesthetics of climbing venues!

 

 

In reply to Robert Durran:

If Wilton or Pex were transported to the Central Belt they'd be the best crags for miles!

Much thought I loved Limekilns (and don't get me wrong, I had a great day there) I can't see it quite competing in terms of quality. You'd have to drive to either Dunkeld or The County before you even got close...

 Robert Durran 13 Nov 2018
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

> If Wilton or Pex were transported to the Central Belt they'd be the best crags for miles!

I wouldn't dispute that! Though some Cambusbarron afficianados might......

In reply to Robert Durran:

Actually, I forgot Dumbarton, which is another fantastic example.

Looks post apocalyptic upon first acquaintance - particularly in the shade - but as soon as the sun hitsand the light becomes long it's transformed. Once-again, it's got a completely unique style of climbing, with those signature Dumby crimps/edges that all slope that little bit more than you'd like, thus requiring that bit greater skill and technique to hold. The bouldering, sport, and trad are all amazing, if a little limited.

For what it's worth Chemin de Fer (E5 6a) was without doubt one of the best climbs I've done this year too.

 gooberman-hill 13 Nov 2018
In reply to Andy Farnell:

Mine too!

 neilh 13 Nov 2018
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

If Wilton is one of the finest in the UK, where does that put Hoghton with the likes of Mandarin, Bodecia etc? World class?

Smiles

 Andy Farnell 13 Nov 2018
In reply to neilh:

Houghton is one of the very finest quarried grit crags in the world, pity about the ridiculously short season. If it was in the peak it'd be heaving every day. Bodecia is better than Regent street (and harder). Mandarin is up there with the best E2's in the country.

Andy F

 

 Mick Ward 13 Nov 2018
In reply to neilh:

I was wondering when Hoghton would be mentioned. I've only been once, yonks ago. There was a torrential downpour before we even got to the crag. But what amazing lines! From memory, they put even Millstone to shame.

Seems to me that if ever a crag needed more traffic, it's Hoghton. I'm guessing the vexed access puts people off. A pity, if so.

Mick

P.S. I'd cite Pex as a place which seemingly has a lot against it. Every year the local scallies (and students?) do their best to wreck the place. Every year, the locals lovingly clear the crap up and clean the routes once more. Nearly everybody struggles - but struggling at Pex stands you in good stead when you go wall climbing most anywhere else.

 

 Michael Gordon 13 Nov 2018
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

> Steeped in history and hypodermic needles, it's got one of the most exacting climbing styles I've ever had the privilege of failing on. 

A good quote for the next guide.

 Robert Durran 13 Nov 2018
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

> Actually, I forgot Dumbarton, which is another fantastic example.

> For what it's worth Chemin de Fer (E5 6a) was without doubt one of the best climbs I've done this year too.

I've been to Dumbarton only twice. I'm only ever going once more - to make my onsight attempt on Chemin de Fer which I've now been putting off for more than twenty years while I get strong enough. It promises, by all accounts, to be a short and humiliating visit. I shall console myself with the thought that I'll never have to go there again.

 

 Andy Farnell 13 Nov 2018
In reply to Mick Ward:

Pex is a special place (as you know). It's not about biceps, but brains. Footwork over thuggery, fingers and finesse are more important than burl and bouncing between blobs.

To climb well at Pex is a fleeting thing, even for locals. Occasionally you float, mostly you flail. Sometimes you soar, but that is the rarest, most precious of times.

Andy F

1
 Mick Ward 14 Nov 2018
In reply to Andy Farnell:

So true - and beautifully put!

Mick


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