Some good routes, but surely no-one could be serious about them being the best in the UK. Hilariously, only route in Scotland and that's on the Etive slabs! (And, incidentally, the only one I havn't done).
I haven't done the Hammer and Merlin Direct was a more recent tick but the other 3 were all early HVS's for me. We linked Intern to join Kipling Grove which at the time got HVS but is now E1. I was pumped out of my mind lower down but tuned in by the top pitch which just felt amazing. A long slow big day with rain between the pitches and fighter jets underneath us when the sun came out.
Riders on the Storm on the 30th December for a new year trip in glorious sun but freezing sea! I thought I was going to fall in from the top of the pitch at one point. Pumped, off route, cut finger, lots of blood, can't hold on, go for it, phew!! Great climbing!!
Popularist tosh designed to get us posting. Nothing against Jack but please get someone prolific who can feel what HVS is if you want to do such articles. Otherwise make it much clearer its a fun looking a long way down personnal faves approach. Jack would have been better off with his top 5 HVS solos.
It doesn't matter really. Any list like this is only to generate fun discussion. Hence the '?'. There's no such thing as the 'Five Best HVS in the UK', any more than there are 'five best shades of blue in the colour spectrum'
I agree that the other routes are also great. For me, perhaps, it was that I climbed it early on in my career, I really liked the long run-out up to the overlap, and also I feel a special affinity to the route having talked about it with the first ascencionist.
About level with the leader, some 10 metres or so to his right, in the upper part of a prominent groove. I suppose about halfway between leader and second. The ghost is leaning leftwards and reaching into the crack in the back of the groove.
> About level with the leader, some 10 metres or so to his right, in the upper part of a prominent groove. I suppose about halfway between leader and second. The ghost is leaning leftwards and reaching into the crack in the back of the groove.
Like I said earlier, curious. I found Bald Eagle continuously interesting, I was leading E1/E2 at the time, if you were a HVS leader then it would look very intimidating from below especially as you can't see most of the gear placements until you are right by them.
The E1 to the right is also very good and only slightly harder on the main slab part of the route (getting off the deck is the crux).
In reply to steveb2006: I think Suicide Wall and Batchelor's Left Hand vie for the position of best grit HVS. Batchelor's has better climbing, and is an outrageous sandbag (giving it the real character of a classic grit HVS), but it doesn't take the easiest line up the face which is a shame. Both are probably better than Sloth in that they have so much climbing on them, but the thrill of crossing that roof is really something else for HVS. I'm undecided!
Kipling Groove is the only one I completely agree about.
I'm afraid that I think the best HVS on Grit has to be Suicide Wall at Cratcliffe (however my mate sitting next to me agrees about the Sloth).
Is Hammer a really better route than Bludger's Revelation or the likes of Dragon?
Not sure about Rider's in the Storm being the best HVS in Pembroke, let alone the best sea cliff HVS. DOWH is a bit predictable but I wouldn't have argued against Heart of Darkness or Moonraker.
Finally, as everyone knows the best rock in the UK is actually on Plexus Buttress, unfortunately I've just checked and Plexus has been upgraded to E1. Therefore I humble submit Trespasser Groove on the grounds that Esk Buttress is that rarest of beasts, a South facing mountain crag with immaculate rock.
Certainly not me as my national HVS tick list coverage is way too poor even though it includes quite a few famous lines. Ive got a better coverage of classics in California than the UK. I'd rather the article stuck to its guns as its really good...doesn't need tabloid tricks.
Whoo. What a fabulous day out. I did it as a spotty teenager almost thirty years ago, on a cloudless day and with the bilberries all ripe at the top. It still ranks as one of my favourite memories, climbing or otherwise.
ps Both VS and E1 are intrinsically better grades than HVS, which is really just a stop-gap....
In reply to The Ex-Engineer: I disagree. The only route I thought was better was Hurricane, E2. But I can only go on what we climbed over a weeks trip. Hell's Kitchen was really good too, but Burn Up wins for me because of the pumpy lay back to top it out.
Another left field entry: Ximenes followed by Gaul on Pillar. Ride bike in from Ennerdale, chuck it in the bushes, slog uphill and engage with some of the best HVS climbing anywhere.
I might be imagining it but I'm sure we managed to contrive Pinocchio and Exposure explosion into one climb when we did it - involved a bit of diagonal down climbing, I think. Too many brain cells under the bridge to remember fully !
I thought GW was shit, but as was pointed out earlier there are lots of factors involved such as your state of mind, the weather, who you're with etc. I've reclimbed routes I thought were good the first time and they've been disappointing, and vice versa. Maybe not 5 but the best 105 HVS would be a better list.
> I might be imagining it but I'm sure we managed to contrive Pinocchio and Exposure explosion into one climb when we did it - involved a bit of diagonal down climbing, I think. Too many brain cells under the bridge to remember fully !
Yeah you can - that's that settled then: Pinocchio and then straight into Exposure Explosion. The only problem I can see is that you can't tick Exposure Explosion unless it's done in a BIG sea ... and some sort of epic ensues ... If there is no epic then there is no tick.